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I want some tips
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accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 12:17 PM
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I want some tips
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So I have been searching on the net for tips and tricks to get better but havent found too much. I would like to know some tricks moves hints and tips to make my climbing better what are the techniques that i need to know?


duality4569


Jun 10, 2005, 12:19 PM
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work out and climb a lot in the gym. it will come to you.


jorgle


Jun 10, 2005, 12:20 PM
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Tip #1: Be less vague.




tell us what you want to improve!

J


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 12:30 PM
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I want to improve my bouldering and my top rope climbing skills. I can climb 5.10's at the gym consistentley and 5.11's are on the rough side but can be accomplished after a few trys. I want to improve my techinque. Like when I climb I just climb. About all I know is that I need to climb with my legs. I know what edging is and smearing and dynoing and those are the only techniques i know. What will help me improve as a climber?


kingjawsh


Jun 10, 2005, 12:32 PM
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....climbing more....


vegastradguy


Jun 10, 2005, 12:33 PM
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for a guy climbing 5.10 and 5.11 (even in the gym), you sure seem very unsure of your climbing ability.

it sounds like you just need to do two things: focus on your feet and climb more. like most things, you will improve as you gain more experience.


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 12:43 PM
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Well the reason I sound unsure is like at the gym I usually climb at we dont have the courses with a scale rating out beside them. But over the summer I started doing kids camps at a rock gym and as I have talked with my co-workers I have started to wonder about my climbing technique. lIke today one of the guys was telling me that i should knee down and I had no clue what he was talking about and the guy looked at me like I was an idiot. It seems like I can climb as well or better than most of my buds but they seem to have a much larger i guess climbing vocab. At school its usually me and my roommate climbing and we never know if we are really doing things right or if their is an easier way but we both get the job done.


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Oh another thing I dident know that 5.10 or 5.11 was considered hard. The first thing I climbed after I started working at the gym was a course that looked cool and it had a 5.10 out beside it that I noticed when i got done and I asked what it meant. So I dident get the rating thing down till like a month ago. So i guess from that you can all tell I am a noob. I have been climbing reguallary for like a year indoors and I want to get outdoors as soon as I can.


wjca


Jun 10, 2005, 12:48 PM
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Hey, who doesn't like a nice set of .... wait, you said tips. Nevermind.


boulderman


Jun 10, 2005, 1:02 PM
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It sounds like you are strong and have some natural ability. Keep climbing and keep bouldering. Boulder with people who are better than you and don't be afraid of helping your friends out that are not as good as you. Examine the techniques that you see the better climbers using and ask them why it works.

Also, watch girls climb. They often times will use better beta and technique. Above all.... work your weakness when you are feeling strong, (It will make you stronger) and work your strengths when you are feeling weak, (it will help your confidence).

If someone tells you to do something and you don't understand, ask them to explain it. Strength and technique don't come overnight. Also, get outside as much as possible... that is real ROCK climbing.


headchop


Jun 10, 2005, 1:04 PM
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Me too - mine are all shredded and torn.


nd2boostt


Jun 10, 2005, 1:08 PM
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Always concentrate on foot placement. If you can't reach something, 9 times out of 10 it's because you need to move your feet. Where your feet go, your ass goes.
Also stay aware of your center of gravity. Shifting it when necessary can provide alot of extra balance.
But, if you're climbing 5.11's, chances are you already know and do both of those things....


boulderman


Jun 10, 2005, 1:11 PM
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Also, if you've been climbing for a year you have some experience under your belt. You don't have to be a NOOB, step up and get your shit straight. Learn the lingo! You may not have technical experience, (gear, anchors, etc.) but you should have the movement basics.

I watched a kid who has been climbing for 1 year send a V10 and work a mid range 5.14 sport climb yesterday. When this kid started he knew what a heel hook, gastone, toe scum, bicycle, and toe cam were within a week. Just pay attention. Everything you do on the wall has a name.

If you are one of those people who needs to take notes on everything, buy a book on movement.


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 1:16 PM
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Thanks guys.


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 1:31 PM
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So how do I get started climbing outside? Just ask one of the guys at work about going with them sometime? Or what skills do I need to develop before I go outdoors?


nd2boostt


Jun 10, 2005, 1:34 PM
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You don't need anything other than what you have now (unless you DON'T already have a harness and shoes).
Most climbers are pretty willing to share their gear, as long as they know you will take care of it. If you are doing anything other than top-rope, as beforehand if you can borrow draws, pro, etc. Make sure someone is taking a helment. But, if these people go outside often, they probably know what to do and what they need. Just let 'em know you want to get outside and ask if you can tag along sometime. They'll probably tell you what you need to bring. If they don't, ask.


boulderman


Jun 10, 2005, 1:40 PM
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Well, where are you from? Are you from Accord, NY, like your screen name suggests? If so the Gunks is right down the road. Get a crash pad and some buddies and go boulder. That's the easiest and safest way to get your hands on some rock. Otherwise find some very experienced climbers and hit a nearby crag for the day. Go out and get a book called How To Rock Climb by John Long. It has some movement, technique, training, and anchor/system set up basics. Read it and become familiar so when you go out climbing with the "so called" experts you might recognise enough to know if your gonna die or not.


accorddude


Jun 10, 2005, 1:44 PM
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Im from Nashville, Tn. My screen name is about my car. I drive an Accord and Im a Dude. So if your in the Nashville area I would love to go climb outside with you.


dirtineye


Jun 10, 2005, 2:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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Get thee to the Nashville climbing club, look for Jeff Noffsinger. Beg him to take you climbing. Join the southeastern climbers coalition.

Most important, get out of the gym.


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