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dirtyleaf
May 20, 2005, 5:29 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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Here's my rack:
BD C4's-2x#1,1-#2, 1-#3, 1-#4,
DMM 4cu's, #1-2 (I have the 1/4 sizes)
Aliens: blue, yellow, red, orange
Tri-cams: pink, red
BD stoppers: 1 set 4-13
I was thinking on either doubling up on some of the cams, (aliens, and mid-size cams) or getting hexes instead. I know it depends on the area and the places you climb but for "general, all around, beginner, alpine rack" how does it sound? Any suggestions on cams or hexes? I was thinking of WC Forged Friends or BD hexes/ WC rockcentrics. What sizes do you find yourself using the most? I live in WA state by the way. Specific advice would be much appreciated. If this was your rack, what would you add?
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blondgecko
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May 20, 2005, 5:36 AM
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For easy(ish) terrain (up to about 5.10a/b) I absolutely luurve my rockcentrics. Above this I generally don't bother. Of course, it all depends on the rock type... in the right rock, hexes are much more versatile than cams, whereas in cases where it's just parallel slots, they're more or less useless.
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tallnik
May 20, 2005, 9:41 AM
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For alpine: light is right...
Hexes are a lot lighter per unit than cams
Nik
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euroford
May 20, 2005, 2:54 PM
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i climb with a simular rack, except that i carry BD's #.75-3 and a complete set of DMM's #1-4. i find that the larger DMM's place very very very well, and offer a gigantic weight savings over the camelots. leave the BD #4 on the ground unless you KNOW that you will need it.
though i find i don't carry them that often these days, having a couple of hex's is definitly a good idea. when you get the right placement few things can be bomber like a hex can.
but on the other hand, a cam will also likely fit in that same spot that a hex works, but also fit in other spots where a hex won't work.
its a toss-up really as to what you take on a particular climb, you have to use your own judgment before the lead. i would actually however recomend, BOTH. finish you DMM's and buy a couple of big hexs.
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wjca
May 20, 2005, 3:18 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2005
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I carry BD hexes #6-9. The #6 will overlap the large stoppers you have, so #7-9 may be worth adding. If you find yourself using them alot, add a #6 or #10.
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graniteboy
May 20, 2005, 6:30 PM
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Hexes are lighter, and they don't multiply the force outward (a cams do) when you fall on them. There have been a number of fatalities from using cams in somewhat loose alpine rock that suddenly became "REALLY" loose when some moron fell on a cam placed in said stone.
To quote twight: "If you can't climb it with a few hexes, a few cams, a set of stoppers, and 5 ice screws, you don't belong on it".
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hosh
May 20, 2005, 6:41 PM
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I would highly recomend getting yourself a set of hexes. If you can learn how to use them (or if you already know how), hexes are a great addition to a rack. I've got the Metolius Hexes and they're friggin hot. I really like them.
hosh.
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dirtineye
May 20, 2005, 6:45 PM
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The largest 4 or 5 wild country rock centrics slung with dyneema are fantastic.
Hexes can do things a cam will never do, and vice versa, so, if you need to be ready for anything, get some.
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tomtom
May 20, 2005, 11:28 PM
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If you climb at Tieton (near Yakima), you will love hexes. Many of those routes go great with only passive gear.
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q
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May 23, 2005, 4:25 AM
Post #10 of 24
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hexes are also less expensive to leave as rap anchors. But they take more experience in use than cams
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tradrenn
May 25, 2005, 1:42 AM
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I started last year with set of BD hexes this year I'm only using #8, 9, 10, 11 and 4CU DMM Cams. I find well to difficult to place for example # 1 hex. Set of nuts will cover that very well.
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gunksgoer
May 25, 2005, 2:27 AM
Post #12 of 24
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Get a grey alien. And then hexes 7-9.
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md
May 26, 2005, 4:40 AM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2003
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Get the hexes. I have Rockcentrics but now that Ive used the Metolius I prefer their curved hexes. I completely agree with tomtom there. I was at Tieton last weekend and there were times I wished I'd had double hexes instead of double cams. Good Luck.
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cardiffclimber
May 29, 2005, 10:49 PM
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Hexes make great anchors. I carry a set of BD hexes, #7-10 (the 7 is bigger than my #13 nut). They are great to build around for a solid anchor, you can save your cams for the climb. The weight savings is worth it alone.
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avalon420
May 30, 2005, 12:26 AM
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I can stack hexes, can u stack your cams? versatility is key to me
i use the BD 4-11 mostly but also own the 1-3(slung only, those wired one suck) and have doubles(and even tripples) of the ones i use most.But im a hex freak and have climbed many a cliimbs with only hexes
P.S. never trust people who quote monty python
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ajkclay
May 30, 2005, 1:09 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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do they even make hexes any more?
Seriously, I have 3 hexes, the rest cams, but I guess it really does depend on where you're climbing and your style. I used to have a friend's rack of hexes (about 14 hexes) and used them rarely. I only tend to use the number 11 much, and that's just sweet for making you feel like you could jump off the top of the world and be okay.
Otherwise, cams cams cams cams, cams cams cams cams cammidy cams!
(sung to the tune of spam - Monty Python)
aaaaand stoppers.
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dbarandiaran
Jun 11, 2005, 11:32 PM
Post #17 of 24
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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hexes rock! I love them, and strongly recommend them. Sure they don't place as easy as cams, but you have plenty of those already. Get the hexes! They Rule!
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reno
Jun 12, 2005, 1:38 AM
Post #18 of 24
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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In reply to: For alpine: light is right... Hexes are a lot lighter per unit than cams
What he said.
My alpine rack, such that it is, consists of a set of stoppers, three Tri-Cams (two pink, one red,) and maybe five cams. I'm going to dump a few bucks when I can and get a half-dozen hexes to add.
No offense, bro, but your alpine rack sounds pretty heavy.
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ubotch
Jun 12, 2005, 1:54 AM
Post #19 of 24
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Registered: Jul 19, 2002
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I don't do any alpine climbing but I still love my hexes. Instead of doubling up on cams I tend to take the hexes in the same size. I love the weight loss and like others have said, in a good placement they just feel awesome. Also if for some reason I have to bail I would rather leave a $15 hex than a $50 cam.
As far as which hex to get, I have both Black Diamond and Metolius and absolutely prefer the curved Metolius design. It just seems to fit in more places.
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gunksgoer
Jun 12, 2005, 2:30 AM
Post #20 of 24
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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If ya want some hexes i have the BD 5-9 that ive barely used, and id be willing to part with them for very little cash. PM me if your interested...
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johnhenry
Jun 16, 2005, 2:27 AM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2002
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Nice Album cover Phil!!!
Sick Cats like Phil like their hexes...
I climbed almost exclusively on passive gear for years and years.
Now, I would much rather slam in a cam and be on my Way!
Lately, I have started ditching my stoppers for many routes.
To each their own. I still have fond memories of hexes, but if you were going to flog me with a #11 hex (sideways) or a #4 Camalot... I would take the beating from a hex (which means that Camalots are better weapons....).
Cheers,
john
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renohandjams
Jun 22, 2005, 4:49 PM
Post #23 of 24
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Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
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The rockcentrics with the slings seem to be the hex to get if you are concerned about weight and versatility. It really depends on the climb. I would get a couple of the medium size hexes to test out and get use to them, see what you think instead of getting a whole set and then not putting it on your rack ever again.
Find a friend that has a set and try it out.
I'm a cam fan myself and with the fancy new cams coming, the link, and the max I would put my money on some of those new goodies.
-Kenny
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ihuang
Jun 22, 2005, 5:17 PM
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I haven't placed a hex in ages and I cannot imagine fiddling around with it while getting pumped hanging off one arm. It would also make climbing at Indian Creek quite a challenge, but if you are into that kind of torture, all the power to you. Personally, I'd rather bring 8 #2s on some of those routes.
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