Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Regular Route on HalfDome
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


Partner pt


Jun 11, 2005, 2:45 PM
Post #1 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 400

Regular Route on HalfDome
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm planning to do the regular route on Half Dome in August. My wife and I are hoping to do the route for our 15th anniversary! Any way, I'm curious what the aid pitches are like. Is there a lot of fixed gear, are they straight forward, etc... I would also like to ask about the two aider method. Most of the walls I have done have been pure aid routes and I used a four aider system. I'm thinking two aiders would be much lighter and simpler for a route like half dome. We are planning on two days on the wall with very minimal bivi gear in a backback that the second will jug with. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.


the_dude


Jun 11, 2005, 3:34 PM
Post #2 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 221

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Two aiders is the way to go. One aider on your peice and use your other foot for balance. I find that I spend less time hanging out with the two aider system vs four. Less of a cluster too. Your logistics seem right on. have a great time.
Cheers


asandh


Jun 11, 2005, 5:18 PM
Post #3 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:)


texplorer


Jun 11, 2005, 11:24 PM
Post #4 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 199

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I respectfully disagree with sandh,

I think the second should jug with the pack. Just hang it from beneath clipped to your belay loop so its not pulling you over backwards

Yes, the aid pitches are straightforward and have a good bit of fixed stuff.

Take a double rack to #3 camalot (maybe one 3.5)

My partner and I didn't use a single nut on the entire climb!

Two aiders? YES

Carpe Diem-
Tex


Partner pt


Jun 12, 2005, 7:39 AM
Post #5 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks guys, that's the stuff I'm looking for. My wife has been practicing jugging and also aiding with two aiders so she should be ready. I think we will practice jugging with a pack and see what she thinks. Another possibility is to have a very tiny pig that we haul and a small pack that the second jugs with, in that way, the load could be split up into two very manageable portions. I think we will do some block leading with one of us leading 2-5 pitches at a time depending on difficulty breakdown.

How are temps up there in late August? With a good high pressure system do you think we could get by with thinsulate jackets and rain gear and no sleeping bags?

Thanks again - Jeff


asandh


Jun 12, 2005, 8:01 AM
Post #6 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:)


Partner pt


Jun 12, 2005, 8:13 AM
Post #7 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I've done the route in late July when it was baking in the valley and temps were fine on the route. Remember -- its called Northwest Face of Half Dome. Quite a bit of shade as I remember.

The caution I am trying to make, and the reason I suggest hauling, is that unless you plan to do the route in One day, you really should go prepared. Half Dome tops out at 8800 ft and gets a lot more weather than the valley. It can snow or be really hot. I have a friend who got caught in a freak snow storm while climbing HD Direct many years ago in JULY. He wasn't prepared and survived out of luck.

I definately am listening to your advice. If it wasn't my wife, I would just try to do it in a day, but I want her to be able to lead pitches and have a good adventure. I don't think she'll be fast enough to do it in a day, but I also don't want her having to haul a big pig. Anyway, good advice so far.


asandh


Jun 12, 2005, 8:25 AM
Post #8 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:)


Partner euroford


Jun 12, 2005, 8:31 AM
Post #9 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i would haul without question. you'll be much more efficiant that way.


sspssp


Jun 12, 2005, 1:41 PM
Post #10 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you truly go up there when there is a stable high pressure system and an excellant forecast (as opposed to circling a date on the calender and starting up regardless of the forecast) then I would say you could go pretty light on the bivy gear. Skip the sleeping bags and take more in the way of jackets and some sort of bivy (even if it is just an emergency space bag). I've been benighted on long valley climbs when I didn't have any bivy gear (to speak of) and been fine in summer (when there was a high pressure system).

The downside, if there is a high pressure system, the temps will be hot and even though Half Dome is shaded until afternoon, you will want a lot of water.

I've not hauled on Half Dome, but if I was going to do it as a single overnighter, I would have the second jug with a pack.


texplorer


Jun 13, 2005, 12:42 AM
Post #11 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 199

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

After rereading the initial post I guess I didn't see that your going to be up there for 2 days. In this case it would probably be ok to haul.

One more warning: Your night up there on the wall is probably going to suck. I really don't remember any good ledges up there. I agree with the previous poster talking about going for it in one day. If this is not possible for you guys then maybe pack some hammocks or something like that. Hell, I guess you could even tug a portaledge if your hauling anyway.

good luck,

Tex


asandh


Jun 13, 2005, 8:21 AM
Post #12 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:)


cragmasterp


Jun 13, 2005, 8:49 AM
Post #13 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 278

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I did this route in a day and a half push in early sept. 99. We found it much easier for the second to free-climb instead of jugging, with the occasional french free move. Most pitches are 5.9 or easier, and it was much less strenuous for the second to just climb. also there is a fair amount of low angle rock and traversing, which makes hauling diffucult.

We blasted up to big sandy and fixed the two aid pitches above before bivying. this made for and easy 2nd day, and we topped out before noon.

We only took a small backpack that the second followed with. we dressed warmly (capilene and fleece layers) and only took food, water, and a light shell each in the pack. Not a very plush belay, but no hauling either.

All the aid was straightforward and most could be french freed.

Have fun and congrats on the 15th!


flamer


Jun 13, 2005, 10:39 AM
Post #14 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just climbed this route On June 1st. There is a ton of fixed gear in all the aid pitch's, and alot of other spots. Fixed ropes on the death slabs are good.

Rack: 1(and a half) set nuts. NO RP'S.
Cams single green alien through #3 camalot. Double up on Yellow alien through #2 camalot(you could use 2 #3's but only onthe pitch leading to big sandy.

You couln't pay me to haul on this route. It's mostly low angle, with alot of traversing and broken terrain. Hauling would be a nightmare.


josh

Edit...I forgot bring 2 standard cam hooks.


semorrison


Jun 14, 2005, 10:56 PM
Post #15 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 3

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's something you might consider, to save the bivy.

A friend and I did Half Dome two years ago (in October, I think), and took 4 ropes up to the base of the wall. With these, we fixed the first 6 (!) pitches that same afternoon. The next day, we got up early, jumared in the dark, and were at the top of pitch 10 by about 8pm! It slows down a bit from there on, but we still made it to the top well before sunset. (Plenty of french free -- at that point I was struggling on valley 10a!)

Alternatively, >>if<< you pick a good weather slot, carrying a light backpack can work very well. Last year I did the Nose in 2 days, bivying at Camp 5. The second carried a backpack containing 10L of water, two down jackets, two space blankets, a tub of pasta, and basically *nothing* else!

Have fun out there!


flamer


Jun 15, 2005, 8:09 AM
Post #16 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
were at the top of pitch 10 by about 8pm!

Did you mean 8 AM??

josh


mikeehartley


Jun 15, 2005, 4:00 PM
Post #17 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 25, 2003
Posts: 118

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pt,

I've both hauled a bag and done it in a day with the second jumaring with a pack "loaded" with water and bivy gear. Both were fun. Neither were epic. I can't remember the bag ever getting hung up (it was light though). It sounds like you've thought it through enough that you'll have fun either way. The key is to have a system that matches you and your wife that will allow you to have fun. The only nightmare would be if you get bad weather. Have a hoot!


erdeneruc


Jun 17, 2005, 1:59 PM
Post #18 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 56

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When you leave the Sandy Ledges and get to the top of the Zig-Zags, make sure to set up your belay station level with the Thank God Ledge.

You will get great pictures of your partner walking the plank, then struggling to drop to hands.

Be careful with the rope eater crack when you haul that pitch. We clipped the haul line into the pro as well for a short distance, then my partner was able to lower off the pig part way across the ledge.

Great route, you will love it.

Erden.


Partner pt


Jun 17, 2005, 5:05 PM
Post #19 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Everybody! I appreciate all the advice and insight. I'll try to do a little TR when it's all said and done.


bandycoot


Jun 17, 2005, 5:31 PM
Post #20 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
You will get great pictures of your partner walking the plank, then struggling to drop to hands.

Real men walk it...


guanoboy


Jul 8, 2005, 1:39 PM
Post #21 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 244

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bandycoot-
did you walk it? I tried a couple times it seemed impossible - must be my gut.
k


guanoboy


Jul 8, 2005, 1:45 PM
Post #22 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 244

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh yeah PT-
I've bivied at big sandy and climbed it in a day. Both were fun, but after doing the bivy i was determined to come back and do it w/o the bag. When we bivied we hand-over-hand hauled or the second climbed w/ the pack. Simulclimbing the 4-5 pitches in the lower middle section really speeds things up. It is definitely one of my favorite climbs anywhere. For some encouragement, i've been benighted on the DNB but i've made it up half dome in a day with time to spare.
k


climbhigher


Jul 10, 2005, 1:23 PM
Post #23 of 24 (8974 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 224

Re: Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Listen to Pmyche and flamer. They know what they are talking about.
Good Luck and have lots of fun!!!


Kironkid


Jan 30, 2009, 8:12 AM
Post #24 of 24 (4918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2008
Posts: 12

Re: [climbhigher] Regular Route on HalfDome [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
We did it with a standard free climbing rack. We didn't place too many camming units, that route loves Hexes and Stoppers. Lower pitches are a pain to haul on and aid pitches are easy and straight forward.

Kiron Kid


(This post was edited by Kironkid on Jan 30, 2009, 8:13 AM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook