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bighigaz
Jun 14, 2005, 10:05 PM
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Wow. "Para bens" to Heinz. I admire both of them (Wolfgang and Heinz), but I have to be honest and say that the pictures of Gullich still takes the cake. I don't care about tic marks when I climb, but I don't care for them much in a picture. Does that make me a lousy wanker? In any case the cleaner rock sure does make for a sharper shot, even without the color caught in the picture of Heinz. Props to both of them for sporting the stylin' shorts.
On another note, can anyone confirm the purpose of the crash pads Heinz asked to borrow? Could it actually be for a slim chance of survival hitting the ledge below, or was it for a camera crew or something?
The planet mountain article mentioned midnight lightning in the same discussion.... ?? Please don't tell me this is getting downgraded to the worlds highest high-ball boulder problem. I've never even seen SR in person... I don't think my climbing dreams could handle this sort of downgrade!
Once again, congrats to Heinz. Thanks for showing us what's possible!
Who's next?!
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hasbeen
Jun 14, 2005, 11:25 PM
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Hmm, it's been a while but I don't remember that ledge as being anything that you could count on hitting and sticking a landing, much less hit a pad on. And I sure as hell wouldn't want to stand on the edge and spot. I dunno, maybe I was just a wuss back then but my recollection is that you guys thinking you're going to boulder this thing out with a couple of spotters are delusional.
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 15, 2005, 12:33 AM
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in the sake of clarity, my buddy and i asked what he would need the pads for. neither jacob nor i have ever seen SR but we figured that they probably wouldnt do anything except for perhaps alittle mind-ease. he told us that the pads couldnt be used for the end, cause of the slab but that he wanted them for the start incase he wasnt feeling the flow and wanted to bail...
hope this helps, at least it is from the horses mouth :)
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 15, 2005, 12:33 AM
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Sounds ike all the nay sayers and spraylords need to just go out there and send the bitch :twisted:
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raymondjeffrey
Jun 15, 2005, 12:41 AM
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It is always interesting sharing some beers and talking about climbing, especially if the person with whom you are talking has been climbing for around 3 decades. And yea, he has taken some great photos.
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karlbaba
Jun 15, 2005, 2:36 AM
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I tried it once and flailed at the end. It does seem way exposed and scary, out there.
Barring a miracle, if you fell at the crux, you will likely die. If you are lucky you'll die. So it feels exposed, and it's dangerous, and it's got a barn door feel too since you cut your feet loose.
Scary, scary, scary
Karl
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enjoimx
Jun 15, 2005, 4:37 AM
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Here's something fun to try: Think back to the day when you werent a burly hardman climber, when you knew nothing about the meaning of words like offwidth or ballnut, when a toothbrush only had a single purpose, and when "tickmark" meant it was time to tent your house: and then imagine yourself seeing a picture like this, that of Zak hanging by his fist from who the hell knows how high, and cranking his way through this break in the rock, with nary a concern on his face.
You would have nearly wet yourself.
Thats what happened to me when i saw Tom Cruise hanging on for dear life in Mission impossible (2?). Sure it was fake, and i knew it. But it instilled in me a sense of possibility and adventure so much more than anything else ever had.
Its people like Heinz Zak that evolve the sport and inspire people like you and me to climb harder and break personal barriers.
My point would be: please refrain from criticizing this guy from using tick marks, and look at the bigger picture of what he did, and more importantly, why he did it.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 15, 2005, 5:13 AM
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Why is it that none of you seem to know that the crux on separate reality is getting to the lip???
Or, what happens when you lower off from the crux???
None of you have a clue about free soloing either. Free soloers, as an almost universal rule do not use tick marks.
Free soloing SR, you are going to die if you come off anywhere on the route. (the crashpad story is almost certainly bullshit)
The belay ledge for SR is one of the coolest place in the world.
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 15, 2005, 5:48 AM
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In reply to: Why is it that none of you seem to know that the crux on separate reality is getting to the lip??? Or, what happens when you lower off from the crux??? None of you have a clue about free soloing either. Free soloers, as an almost universal rule do not use tick marks. Free soloing SR, you are going to die if you come off anywhere on the route. (the crashpad story is almost certainly s---) The belay ledge for SR is one of the coolest place in the world.
im truely sorry that you feel as though you are so important, everyone loves somebody that tells it as it is...by the way, I do not appreciate you insinuating that i am lying. he is a genuninly nice guy, and by saying what you said, i feel that is kinda belittles my experience. back up, slow down and be nicer.
I have no reason to lie about him borrowing my crash pads, but then again it always was my life goal to be famous on rc.com...
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g
Deleted
Jun 15, 2005, 5:58 AM
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Speaking of MI2, wasn't Ron a stuntman for that one? I still haven't seen that scene or that movie. Oh well, I'm not into fake climbing.
Hienz Zak has a new book out with Alex Huber that has some cool photos in it, and some good stories by a whole group of well known climbers. Worth taking a look.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 15, 2005, 6:46 AM
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In reply to: I have no reason to lie about him borrowing my crash pads, but then again it always was my life goal to be famous on rc.com...
flowerpowerlover wrote the day he got back from the valley
Posted: 27 May 2005 13:18 Post subject: Re: Franklin satellite?
it works REALLY well as a 2nd pad. I also have a mondo II so the satelite is moved around alot more while on a problem. the foam is good and is easily folded over rocks, trees, etc...
flowerpowerlover wrote last year
Franklin Mondo Pad
6 inches THICK!!! Used one day in the buttermilks!!!
$200
kevin
flowerpowerlover also wrote.
Forum: Used Gear / Great Deals Posted: 05 Aug 2004 11:00 Subject: Like New Franklin Bouldering Pads
Hello,
I am selling a mondo and a satellite pad from Franklin Climbing. Only used once. Moving to Thailand and have no place to store them.
mondo $200
satellite $75
email me with questions ...
That is 6 posts out of a total of twenty five???
Toss in a supposed climbing partner with a matching $300 pad (and 2nd pad)?????
Whatever dude.
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climbsomething
Jun 15, 2005, 7:08 AM
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CI,
In reply to: I love the wanking! I can't believe he used tickmarks! I can't believe he has brand new shoes on! Wank on, my friends! :lol:
I believe the correct term is "DURRRRRRRR" 8-)
Love,
CS ;)
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azrockclimber
Jun 15, 2005, 11:02 AM
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In reply to: Speaking of MI2, wasn't Ron a stuntman for that one? I still haven't seen that scene or that movie. Oh well, I'm not into fake climbing. Hienz Zak has a new book out with Alex Huber that has some cool photos in it, and some good stories by a whole group of well known climbers. Worth taking a look.
yes, ron kauk was a "stuntman" for MI2.
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clarki
Jun 15, 2005, 1:36 PM
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Is it more important to be nice or honest?
which one are you alpnclmbr1? you seem to spend a lot of time crying bullsh#t ......
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billcoe_
Jun 15, 2005, 2:09 PM
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both.
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 15, 2005, 3:13 PM
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how many of the 2915 posts you have arent some soap box, i know everything, worthless, take up space nonsense.
since i go to fair amounf of websites that have forums like this one, i've found that if i search around the site and only post when it seems that no one else has asked my question, it keeps the site clean of worthless posts, very much like the quasi conversion that you and i are having...
judgement is not yours...
"Climbing used to be a proud activity. I can't say that I am as proud to call myself a climber (depending on how you define that word) as I once was."
heres some insight...^^^you cant be, because of people just like yourself. just have fun, climbing is about the dumbest reason to fight. why cant we all just respect and encourage each other and pursue climbing for what it means to each of us?
whoa, now i have like 26 posts....sweet!
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bvb
Jun 15, 2005, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: Why is it that none of you seem to know that the crux on separate reality is getting to the lip??? Or, what happens when you lower off from the crux??? None of you have a clue about free soloing either. Free soloers, as an almost universal rule do not use tick marks.
wtf? you talking to me?
http://www.boldering.com/...s/default/smiley.jpg
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flipnfall
Jun 15, 2005, 8:43 PM
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That is SO cool! Does anyone know how old he is? Just curious.
GT
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maxclimber1w
Jun 15, 2005, 10:53 PM
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why is alpnclmr1 always negative? I've never once seen you post something positive, only things that demean other people and ridicule them. Man, you got issues.
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bvb
Jun 15, 2005, 11:45 PM
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In reply to: never once seen you post something positive, only things that demean other people and ridicule them.
no shit. teh alpineclimber guy is a total hater. dude, why you gotta hate?
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dingus
Jun 16, 2005, 12:32 AM
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In reply to: why is alpnclmr1 always negative? I've never once seen you post something positive, only things that demean other people and ridicule them. Man, you got issues.
You must search for understanding and forgivness in your heart my son. You must have pity!
For our poor lost brother Alpncclmr1 is just like you and me. Yea, he breathes the same air, drinks the same water, eats the same gruel as do you and I....
If you prick him, does he not BLEED?
Yes, Alpnclmr1 is just like you and me my brother. Except that our poor brother is guilty of something terrible and for that shame he bears the mark of Caine.
You see, Alpnclmr1 went to the mountain and long toil he did, learning, studying, practicing, prefecting. Till one day Alpnclmr1 returned from the Mountain with a wealth of knowledge both wide and deep!
And he came unto our world and he shouted from the widest keyboard, from the speed of 19 parallel processors, "Behold NOOBS! For I AM HERE TO SAVE YOU FROM YOURSELVES!" For in his heart there was good and he sought to help others learn what he had learned, so enjoy and respect the arts of mountain climbing.
And the climbers here rejoiced, for truly we did see the wisdom of his words, the intelligence of his opinions, the depth of his experience. And lo, we sought his favor.
And Alpnclmr1 answered our questions. And we of shallow mind and short attention span, took no note of his answers. No, we asked him the same questions, over and over.
Whatsmore, we argued with poor brother Alpnclmr1, with force and savage word, telling him he had personal problems and bad hygiene. Still he answered the same old questions and still the recipients butchered his gift.
You see, our dear Alpnclmr1 simply flew too close to the sun. He suddenly realized the futility of it all, the hopeless droning repetitive madness of it all and he glared into the bright orb of this cynical discovery to verily, the very retinas of his human personality were forever etched into a grimace, a cynical, sarcastic bitter laughing grimace, as he saw each and every question, in fact each and ever utterance from us for what it was... dull repetition.
Every time he closes his eyes, he sees the noobs burned into his vision, hunched over, timid, blaring something unintelligable in his direction. Every time he listened to the background noise he just heard another stupid question.
And so it came to pass that the climber Alpnclmr1 was cast forth from the heavenly skys of humanity unto the firey pit! He is an angel of course, but a dark angel he be. Be careful, lest he corrupt your virtue, defile your temple and steal your soul.
Amen.
DMT
(posted on one pass, no edits, Zeus help me)
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andy_reagan
Jun 16, 2005, 11:57 AM
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Zing, Dingus!
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crag
Jun 16, 2005, 12:29 PM
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In reply to: No s---! Somebody really ought to fire up the Photoshop and get to scrubbin'. Disclaimer: I AM JUST KIDDING. The above post should, in no way, be construed to represent my actual views on Photoshop, and the Michael Jackson verdict.
So what you're saying is that MJ does still look like Tito and the fact that his on screen image looks more like Diana Ross is eveidence of a grand scheme involving Adobe and their investors.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 16, 2005, 4:26 PM
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To start with, you have a bunch of tick marking sport gumbies blaming their tick marks on a foreign free soloist. Take a little responsibility, tick marks like that come from people just like you.()
Then you have the crew that thinks that separate reality is a boulder problem with a death fall crux. ~"He brought pads so that he could jump off if he wasn't feeling good."~ What utter bull.
Then you have the expert crew that claims to have done the route... They all think the crux of an 11+ roof crack is after the crack ends??????
Heinz Zak made a remarkable send on an amazing route in an amazing location. A place that I happen to be familiar with and hold in high regard. The gumbies (that includes the so called "experts" on this site) on this site chose to denigrate the person and the route. Fuck em.
I am happy to be an outcast in this idiotic crew.
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