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atg200
Jun 16, 2005, 7:11 PM
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i would lengthen the tails on some of those knots, but other than that it looks fine to me.
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ksolem
Jun 16, 2005, 7:24 PM
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Is that an overhand knot on the stopper with the yellow corf in the 3rd photo? If so that is a really bad idea. Other than that, that looks like a way better rack than we had when I started out.
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ropeburn
Jun 16, 2005, 7:31 PM
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Is all the cordage original? circa 1988?
If so, I'd replace it. If it's more recent, a decent rack it is.
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keinangst
Jun 16, 2005, 7:46 PM
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Buy my own, uh, cord, I think I could forge a friendship with those cams.
Sorry for the bad puns. Couldn't resist.
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rocloco
Jun 16, 2005, 8:03 PM
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NICE ONE...GOTTA WEAKNESS FROM MY FATHER FOR TERRIBLE PUNS.
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dirtineye
Jun 16, 2005, 8:09 PM
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that gear is a lot newer than some of the stuff a few of my friends climb on.
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hosh
Jun 16, 2005, 8:14 PM
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after replacing the webbing and cord (if it's old), yes, I'd use that rack...
hosh.
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slcliffdiver
Jun 17, 2005, 12:26 AM
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Can't tell from the pics but are do those friends have regular nuts that hold the axel in (not the ones that you use an allen wrench to remove)? If so I'd delicately (WD 40 if there's a lot of resistance) take the nuts off of then ends and check the treads under the nuts. On one of my friends I couldn't get the action to work like I wanted after several years so I tried to take the nut of and basically broke several threads on the axel that were holding the nut on :cry: Anyway figured it might be good to check the threads in case the people before you managed to do the same thing I did.
As far as the metal goess I did climb on almost exactly that rack for a few years and it served well enough. Though I was happy when some new toys came out and I could afford them. As far I know I'd just do the normal gear thorough inspection (cam action, cables on stoppers etc., small cracks especially near the pins on the biners) and be happy with that.
I just noticed the tied stopper is tied with an EDK not good IMO. I'd replace all the cordage you never know where it's been especially with an earthquake involved. Go with the high strengh cord with the kevlar in it (Gemini?) if you can get it where you are. The extra stiffness will help with the placements on the stoppers and small to medium hexes.
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bmxer
Jun 17, 2005, 1:17 PM
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Hey thanx everyone, that's exactly what I was hoping, I thought this rack would need some fine tunning. And I wasn't sure about the doublfishermans, but I guess the overhand knot is the only problem. The cams are made in Armenia. They copied the German design.
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livinonasandbar
Jun 17, 2005, 1:25 PM
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Suggest you keep a tight line if you're top roping on a static rope. Any slack in a fall could jerk the shit out of you...
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j_ung
Jun 17, 2005, 1:37 PM
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Ditto the cordage suggestion, and add a Gunks tie-off to each Friend.
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bmxer
Jun 17, 2005, 2:21 PM
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It's not 100% static. My friend said it's actually meant to be used for construction workers. I've taken a few falls on it, it's not so bad, but yes we do do a good job belaying for that reason.
What's a Gunks tie-off?
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j_ung
Jun 17, 2005, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: What's a Gunks tie-off?
If you set one of your Friends in a shallow horizontal crack, such that the stem protrudes from the rock, then fall on it, the resulting leverage can bend or even break the rigid stem.
On the stem, between the cams and the trigger, you'll see three small holes. Thread a small section of cordage through the hole closest to the cams and tie it in a loop so that, when extended, it matches up length-wise with the Friend's main sling.
Now, when faced with the same horizontal crack, you can clip this second sling, the "Gunks tie-off," instead of loading the protruding stem.
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waltereo
Jun 17, 2005, 3:23 PM
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I cannot see the picture ?!?!!?
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brutusofwyde
Jun 17, 2005, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: NICE ONE...GOTTA WEAKNESS FROM MY FATHER FOR TERRIBLE PUNS.
With apologies in advance for thread hijack:
Here at the Old Climbers Home, our weekly gossip publication had a contest for the worst puns. I entered ten of my biggest groaners, hoping that at least one of them would get top prize.
Unfortunately, no pun in ten did.
Brutus
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mgoodro
Jun 17, 2005, 4:19 PM
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I don't see a problem with it other than the age of the cordage. slcliffdiver makes a good point, it might not hurt to have the pieces inspected if you're not comfortable doing that yourself.
Oh, and you might want to get them x-rayed for microfractures.
(Sorry, had to get that one out of my system. Never again, I promise.)
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waltereo
Jun 17, 2005, 4:49 PM
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Is it only me or what but I cannot see any pictures of the rack?
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j_ung
Jun 17, 2005, 5:51 PM
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:?: Must be you. I can see tham fine.
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southtxtraveler
Jan 31, 2006, 2:26 AM
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You should treat this as a static line. In construction theseropes are always used for controlled descent only, no fall factor. If used for fall protection a shock absorbing lanyard is required.
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mendou
Jan 31, 2006, 4:03 AM
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In reply to: Would you use this rack?
yes... look very good to me...
maybe all is about change the cords, but the rack is good for me
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moose_droppings
Jan 31, 2006, 4:34 AM
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That rack looks uncannily familiar, like I've climbed on that before.........recently.
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landgolier
Jan 31, 2006, 4:35 AM
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6 month old thread revived. Where do you people find these things?
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fear
Jan 31, 2006, 4:39 AM
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For Christ's sake, he's had 100 meters of nylon static line out. It's gonna stretch a bit!
-Fear
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billcoe_
Jan 31, 2006, 5:27 AM
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yes I would.
Safety is in your mind: knowlege and experiance. Any good climber could be safe with that rack. However, that being said, I have retired all my old stuff which looks like that to toprope only (although the friends are still fine for lead climbing if I need that many more) , and use redundant multiple pieces.
The reason I don't lead with old carabiners, is I occasionally do climbs where if I fell, one failure would be too many. Not that those would fail, but why not jack the strength up if you have the money? A new Wild Country Helium has a gate OPEN strength higher than the closed Eiger oval carabiners I first purchased when I started climbing.
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