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Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw?
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alex913


Jun 17, 2005, 11:34 AM
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Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw?
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Fellow Climbers:

Please forgive my naiveness but I am somewhat new to sport climbing. I'm racking up on commercially available draws and almost all (if not all) seem to have a straight-gate biner on the bolt end of the draw.

I'm thinking of putting together my own set of draws and wonder if there is any reason NOT to use bent gate biners on the bolt end of the draw, irrespective of what I use on the rope end.

I would like to use wire-gates on the rope end, but why are all pre-assembled draws out there with a straight gate on the bold end?

Thanks,
Alex


nowinowski


Jun 17, 2005, 11:58 AM
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Re: Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw? [In reply to]
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don't question the ways of the rock.


Partner climboard


Jun 17, 2005, 12:17 PM
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In reply to:
I would like to use wire-gates on the rope end, but why are all pre-assembled draws out there with a straight gate on the bold end?

Thanks,
Alex

Straight gate biners are the least likely to catch on the hanger and unclip from the bolt accidentally.


mgoodro


Jun 17, 2005, 12:18 PM
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Re: Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw? [In reply to]
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Safety. The bent gate has a higher probability of opening due to vibration. Straight gates can also vibrate open, but are less likely to. Wiregates do not have this tendency.

All my draws are wiregate on the bolt/pro end and bent gate on the rope end.


micronut


Jun 17, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Re: Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw? [In reply to]
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another reason to have different biners on your draws is this: the bolt end biner on the draw can and does get burred with little pieces of metal resulting from metal to metal contact with the bolt hanger, and these can damage a rope sheath.


outsideguyzak


Jun 17, 2005, 1:16 PM
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do straight gate on the bolt and bent for the rope. DO NOT use bent on bolt. It is less safe, more likely to come open, and more tolling on your rope.


jt512


Jun 17, 2005, 1:19 PM
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Signal to noise ratio: 1:4.

-Jay


olderic


Jun 17, 2005, 1:54 PM
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In reply to:
Signal to noise ratio: 1:4.

-Jay

1:5 now


bler


Jun 18, 2005, 7:21 AM
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Re: Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw? [In reply to]
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duuuude, just untie, and draw the rope through the hanger, no need to even BUY biners or worry about flutter or gates or any of that nonsense

:twisted:


toejam


Jun 18, 2005, 8:24 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=69620&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=15


cyanamid


Jun 18, 2005, 8:57 AM
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In reply to:
Safety. The bent gate has a higher probability of opening due to vibration. Straight gates can also vibrate open, but are less likely to. Wiregates do not have this tendency.
:wtf:
Somehow this just doesn't seem right...... :P


steezy


Jun 20, 2005, 10:34 PM
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no bent-gate biner should ever touch a bolt. It's sacrilegious.


petsfed


Jun 20, 2005, 11:38 PM
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Re: Bent-gate biner on the bolt end of a draw? [In reply to]
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What makes a bent gate so easy to clip also makes it very easy to unclip. Especially when you're clipped to a bolt hanger.


theonlynebraskaclimber


Jun 23, 2005, 6:13 AM
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Use the straight to the wall so u don't fall and die, then use the bent to the rope cuz it is easy to clip, if it is more easy to clip you wont back clip as much.


bill413


Jun 23, 2005, 6:32 AM
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In reply to:
duuuude, just untie, and draw the rope through the hanger, no need to even BUY biners or worry about flutter or gates or any of that nonsense

:twisted:

Sooooo much cheaper! Also, I think this might give more friction in case of a fall, making the belayer's job easier.


crimpandgo


Jun 24, 2005, 12:05 PM
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Safety. The bent gate has a higher probability of opening due to vibration. Straight gates can also vibrate open, but are less likely to. Wiregates do not have this tendency.

All my draws are wiregate on the bolt/pro end and bent gate on the rope end.

Can you back this up with factual data?

Also,

"Straight gate biners are the least likely to catch on the hanger and unclip from the bolt accidentally"

Can you back this on up with factual data?


My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side.


jt512


Jun 24, 2005, 3:56 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Safety. The bent gate has a higher probability of opening due to vibration. Straight gates can also vibrate open, but are less likely to. Wiregates do not have this tendency.

All my draws are wiregate on the bolt/pro end and bent gate on the rope end.

Can you back this up with factual data?

Also,

"Straight gate biners are the least likely to catch on the hanger and unclip from the bolt accidentally"

Can you back this on up with factual data?


My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side.

Idiot. Why don't you use a little restraint and stop guessing at the correct answers to safety questions.

Christ, two correct, unambiguous answers in the whole thread. What a fucking worthless website.

-Jay


caughtinside


Jun 24, 2005, 4:11 PM
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Idiot. Why don't you use a little restraint and stop guessing at the correct answers to safety questions.

Christ, two correct, unambiguous answers in the whole thread. What a f---ing worthless website.

-Jay

U shudnt post mean stuf w/o backing it up. We R all here to lern.


crimpandgo


Jun 24, 2005, 4:12 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Safety. The bent gate has a higher probability of opening due to vibration. Straight gates can also vibrate open, but are less likely to. Wiregates do not have this tendency.

All my draws are wiregate on the bolt/pro end and bent gate on the rope end.

Can you back this up with factual data?

Also,

"Straight gate biners are the least likely to catch on the hanger and unclip from the bolt accidentally"

Can you back this on up with factual data?


My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side.

Idiot. Why don't you use a little restraint and stop guessing at the correct answers to safety questions.

Christ, two correct, unambiguous answers in the whole thread. What a f---ing worthless website.

-Jay

Hey jack*ss,, oops, i mean JT

nice to see you adding to the worthlessness. Thanks again. I certainly could have done without it, but its good for a laugh.

If its such a worthless website why the hell do you troll through the posts adding useless critical crap?

If you were a real man, you post up your answer. Or are you afraid you might be wrong :oops: come on sucka. Post up... or STFU

Oh, P.S. If I do have to read your benign critical crap posts, then I think I will keep posting my "thoughts" just to piss you off. Its kinda fun :)


caughtinside


Jun 24, 2005, 4:18 PM
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Well, perhaps you should consider backing up your belay loop with a third loop, 2 might not be enough for you. I call this tard-dundancy. :P

I'd provide a link, but I'm too lazy. 8^)


jt512


Jun 24, 2005, 4:28 PM
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In reply to:
Oh, P.S. If I do have to read your benign critical crap posts, then I think I will keep posting my "thoughts" just to piss you off. Its kinda fun :)

Your use of quotation marks above is the first thing you've ever written that I agree with.

-Jay

P.S. You need to look up the word "benign."


crimpandgo


Jun 24, 2005, 4:31 PM
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Well, perhaps you should consider backing up your belay loop with a third loop, 2 might not be enough for you. I call this tard-dundancy. :P

I'd provide a link, but I'm too lazy. 8^)

Wow,, That was witty. You sleeping with Jay too :oops: You do seem to follow him around alot.. How sweet.


Reduce your laziness and provide the link. Extra redundancy never hurt anyone. Lack of it will. I don't really give a rats-ass whether you agree with the practice of not.


jt512


Jun 24, 2005, 4:35 PM
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You sleeping with Jay too

No, he's not; and neither are you, by the way.

And what the fuck is extra redundancy? Is that like being pregnanter?

-Jay


caughtinside


Jun 24, 2005, 4:45 PM
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In reply to:

Can you back this on up with factual data?


My vote is bent gates aren't used is because they are more expensive and their intended purpose (making rope clip in easier) doesn't provide any advantage on hanger side.

So, right after you ask someone else for factual data, you "vote" on some totally baseless, as well as incorrect, opinion?

Hey look, I can make up wrong answers and look stupid! Better tie on another belay loop for redundancy!

Clown.


flipnfall


Jun 24, 2005, 5:54 PM
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The reason you don't have bent gates on the bolt end is because bent gates were designed to ease one-handed clipping. There is no advantage to having the bent gate on a bolt hanger.

I'm also of the strong opinion that a bent gate on a hanger does not increase risks. Ironically, a bent gate on the rope end is more dangerous because they are more likely to unclip if you back clip them. I remember when they first started to come out with "dog-legged" biners (i.e., bent-gate) and the back-clipping/unclipping problem was one of the reasons some climbers resisted using them at first. But with education of proper clipping, the fear of using them was reduced.

WHAT BINER IS BEST
A keyed-gate without a notch is probably the one main biner to offer an advantage for the bolt end. Without a notch, the biner is easier to clip and unclip without the notch getting caught on the edge of the hanger. If you're looking for a biner that's "best for the bolt," use the keyed-gate biner.

GT

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