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xclimber
Jun 22, 2005, 9:04 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Are the curved sided hexes really so much better as is claimed in the most recent "Climbing" magazine review? They cite better camming action. I'm no physicist, but that doesn't hold water on an intuitive level. And what about surface contact... It would seem to be less with curved sides, and I'm thinking a la Craig Connally that Secure trumps Strong...
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dirtineye
Jun 22, 2005, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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It's your intuition that does not hold water.
Get yourself a WC rock centric and a similar sized flat sided hex, place em a few times in the same spots, and then see if you feel the same way.
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gunksgoer
Jun 22, 2005, 10:00 PM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Fiddle around with a strait sided hex for a bit... youll be longing for a better alternative within minutes. Curves are the answer.
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jimfix
Jun 22, 2005, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2004
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In reply to: They cite better camming action. I'm no physicist, but that doesn't hold water on an intuitive level. And what about surface contact... It would seem to be less with curved sides, and I'm thinking a la Craig Connally that Secure trumps Strong...
Firstly, camming is a result of curvature. The term cam isn't originally from climbing (think cam in an engine). Flat-sided hexes won't cam, only wedge.
As for surface contact, yes a flat hex will give better contact in a flat-sided crack that it matches well. But due to the camming action of curved pieces when loaded they don't need as much surface contact to hold. Also, if the flat hex doesn't match the crack well, there will be even less contact than a curved hex. In uneven cracks, the curves help you fit around irregularities.
I'm surprised there are not BD lovers flaming the earlier posts. Flat-sided hexes are obsolete. Not unusable, but like oval beiners, there are better alternatives.
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skinner
Jun 22, 2005, 11:08 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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hmmm.. as I understand it.. it's the curved nut that will normally will give you greater surface contact. As strange as that may sound, unless the rock surface is perfectly flat, the straight sides of a standard wedge will usually end up making contact with only two or three "tiny" protrusions.
As Metolius claims: "a massive placement advantage over regular, straight-sided pieces"
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angry
Jun 22, 2005, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I gave my hexes away a while ago, so this isn't really my issue.
I had a few metolius curved hexes and some bd normal hexes.
In absolutely every placement I thought the BD were both easier to place and looked more secure.
I doubt everyone has the same experience, that's just what it was for me.
I've never placed a rockcentric.
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skinner
Jun 24, 2005, 4:38 AM
Post #7 of 8
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In reply to: I had a few metolius curved hexes and some bd normal hexes. In absolutely every placement I thought the BD were both easier to place and looked more secure. I doubt everyone has the same experience, that's just what it was for me. I've never placed a rockcentric.
Hrmm... you are right , because I found the exact opposite with BD and Metolius.
Has anyone every taken a fall on a Metolius curved hex and tried to get it out afterwards? Just wondering if they ALWAYS bite this good/bad.
(I almost left it there)
Just curious why you gave your hex's away?
And.. if you get the urge to part with any more of your gear..PM me :wink:
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tattooed_climber
Jun 24, 2005, 4:50 AM
Post #8 of 8
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
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i use both curved nuts and flat nuts and curved hexs and flat sided hexes.....both have there better placements...but like curved nuts, curved hex's tend to place better on average.....
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