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cruxmonger


Jun 23, 2005, 1:06 PM
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5.15 is for sissies
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When is someone going to buck up, put on their man pants and climb something 6th class? I'm tired of hearing 5.15a this, 5.15b that...lets get arrogant. Let's get on some 6.1a's and see who's boss!!!!!!!!!!!!


zozo


Jun 23, 2005, 1:08 PM
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OK - you first.


curt


Jun 23, 2005, 1:08 PM
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Try reposting this in the "Aid Climbing" forum. You'll get better replies there. :wink:

Curt


Partner j_ung


Jun 23, 2005, 1:10 PM
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In reply to:
Try reposting this in the "Aid Climbing" forum. You'll get better replies there. :wink:

Curt

Your age is showing. :P


Partner gunksgoer


Jun 23, 2005, 1:10 PM
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Plenty of people do it - its called aid climbing Chief. Do your yds homework dude.


dina


Jun 23, 2005, 1:13 PM
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6th class is aid climbing.....................
And it has been done already.


aikibujin


Jun 23, 2005, 1:24 PM
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Re: 5.15 is for sissies [In reply to]
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I think the dude is trying to be funny. I think (or I assume) he knows that aid climber routinely climb 6th class stuff, he's talking about someone free climbing 6th class stuff.

(Now I'm going to try to be funny as well, and do as bad as this guy)

But you know what? As soon as someone frees that 6.1 test piece, it's just gonna get downgraded to a 5.16a by the rest of the world. If a second guy sends it in less than 2 weeks, it's probably gonna get downgraded even further. So why bother?

I like to climb my own 5.4 test pieces, and downgrade them to 4th class.


flipnfall


Jun 23, 2005, 2:10 PM
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Re: 5.15 is for sissies [In reply to]
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I love aid climbing. I really don't know why, but where there's not much on the wall but a bunch of 0 through size 3 stoppers on a mankey crack, I have fun.

Is that nerdy for a climber to say?

GT


t-dog
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Jun 23, 2005, 2:27 PM
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hum, interesting how the thread title is changed in the thread and in the replies, but not on the front page!!!!!!


shank


Jun 23, 2005, 2:31 PM
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Is now.


esperante


Jun 23, 2005, 2:47 PM
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maybe it is being proposed that people should free climb aid routes...
or this is a joke...

well, people do climb aid routes and give them 5th class ratings.
the nose is an aid route, does that mean it is an aid route and 6th class? because it has been freed, and then that would mean that lynn hill has climbed a 6th class route...

it is kind of confusing.

(p.s. have you ever seen a 5.15...)


vanclimber


Jun 23, 2005, 3:24 PM
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Have you ever heard of climbers freeing an aid line? Because thats what they are talking about. Its been done. Didn't Tommy Caldwell free the Salathe? Yuji Hirayama freed something where he had to glue his fingernails on to send. Lee Press on stylee! The concept is that if an aid climb gets "freed" then it is no longer 6th class but can now have a 5.whatever YDS rating. In otherwords 6th means aid, 5th means free.


boulderkid17


Jun 23, 2005, 4:40 PM
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I promise that if i climb a hard 5.15 i will rate it 6.1a


dirtineye


Jun 23, 2005, 4:42 PM
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http://holeinthewall.shacknet.nu/...r/die_thread_die.jpg


vegastradguy


Jun 23, 2005, 4:55 PM
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In reply to:
Have you ever heard of climbers freeing an aid line? Because thats what they are talking about. Its been done. Didn't Tommy Caldwell free the Salathe?

yes, although he was certainly not the first to do it. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana first freed the route in 88, Alex Huber did it in 95, and then Tommy did it more recently (although his sub-24hr ascent of the route was quite remarkable!).

In reply to:
Yuji Hirayama freed something where he had to glue his fingernails on to send. Lee Press on stylee!

poor Yuji. Such a strong climber- keeps trying to onsight El Cap big walls, and missing by a tiny bit each time. He's running out of viable options! Amazing climber, though- to be able to even consider and onsight of the Captain is an incredible feat in and of itself.


korntera


Jun 23, 2005, 5:31 PM
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NOBODY will every climb a 6th class, because that means unclimbable, so the second it is climbed, people will say you just climbed a 5.16b, so if you climb it, it isn't 6th class, so that is impossible. On the other hand however.... Everytime a new grade is put up they climbed something previously unclimbable, so that would mean that lots of people have climbed 6.1

-Travis


kman


Jun 23, 2005, 5:54 PM
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In reply to:
NOBODY will every climb a 6th class, because that means unclimbable, so the second it is climbed, people will say you just climbed a 5.16b, so if you climb it, it isn't 6th class, so that is impossible. On the other hand however.... Everytime a new grade is put up they climbed something previously unclimbable, so that would mean that lots of people have climbed 6.1

-Travis

You must have:
A) not read the other threads
B) if you did read the other threads then you must ride the short bus

I hope it's A....for your own sake.


kindredhawk


Jun 23, 2005, 6:07 PM
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zzzzzzzz.... oh shoot i must have fallen asleep with this thread being as lame as it is. but i did read it so i guess i am lame too. better go climb some 6th class routes to regain my coolness :-P


Partner happiegrrrl


Jun 23, 2005, 6:38 PM
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....This thread has got to be the testpiece of threads showing the true risk in seeking/blindly taking advise from rc.com forums.....

....and to make it even more so - oddly (or appropriately) enough, it is in the Sport Climbing section


mattmax45


Jun 23, 2005, 9:04 PM
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5.15 isn't a joke, but I do find it funny how the majority of them are over 120 feet long endurance style routes, even at V8 for every move its not how the hardmen of the original style of climbing would have come to rate this. 5.15 should be solid 5.15 moves, not 13b/c moves for 100+ feet, that's kinda like long 13's, 100+ feet of 11.b then a crux of 12c/d, it should only be rated to the hardest move possible. Some day someone will develope a route thats 40 feet long at solid 5.15 / V14 moves, Boone Speed's Ice Cream in Logan Canyon comes pretty close from what I hear, 14 foot V12/13 crux 12 moves long sustained. Fun.

Chaching .02c

Peace


alpinerock


Jul 1, 2005, 11:53 AM
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In reply to:
Boone Speed's Ice Cream in Logan Canyon comes pretty close from what I hear, 14 foot V12/13 crux 12 moves long sustained. Fun.

Chaching .02c

Peace

Ice Cream is in American Fork Canyon, Hell cave, not logan canyon. I was just up there yesterday screwing around on burning and some canadian came up and was working it, never heard of the chap before but damn he could pull hard.


mattmax45


Jul 1, 2005, 10:53 PM
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Ice Cream is in American Fork Canyon, Hell cave, not logan canyon. I was just up there yesterday screwing around on burning and some canadian came up and was working it, never heard of the chap before but damn he could pull hard.

Yeah no Sh--, thats cool, I'd like to check it out myself, now I won't be hunting in Logan forever wondering were the hell Ice Cream is. :D


sick_climba


Jul 1, 2005, 11:07 PM
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In reply to:
Plenty of people do it - its called aid climbing Chief. Do your yds homework dude.
Whoa aid climbing is considered 6th class??? I didn't know that! sweet... but still 5.15 is not for sissies what the fuck is wrong with you.... 5.15 is some hard shit! Climbing 5.13 -5.14 is considered climbing hard.


sick_climba


Jul 1, 2005, 11:09 PM
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In reply to:
5.15 isn't a joke, but I do find it funny how the majority of them are over 120 feet long endurance style routes, even at V8 for every move its not how the hardmen of the original style of climbing would have come to rate this. 5.15 should be solid 5.15 moves, not 13b/c moves for 100+ feet, that's kinda like long 13's, 100+ feet of 11.b then a crux of 12c/d, it should only be rated to the hardest move possible. Some day someone will develope a route thats 40 feet long at solid 5.15 / V14 moves, Boone Speed's Ice Cream in Logan Canyon comes pretty close from what I hear, 14 foot V12/13 crux 12 moves long sustained. Fun.

Chaching .02c

Peace
Flex luther out in the fortress of solitude is a 5.15 a that is only one pitch... you only need a 50 meter rope I beleive.


rjtrials


Jul 1, 2005, 11:41 PM
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In reply to:
Flex luther out in the fortress of solitude is a 5.15 a that is only one pitch... you only need a 50 meter rope I beleive.

Nope. 70 meter.

http://www.merrickales.com/crap/invalid.jpg

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