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ascension
Jul 14, 2002, 4:37 AM
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I'm a beginner and recently bought new shoes, Boreal Ace. The dude at the store told me they were great and when I'm in the gym they seem to be working great too. However, I want to climb the real thing and people are telling me the Ace is not the way to go. They said I should get some softer shoes so I can "feel the Rock"
How important is it to feel the rock?
I know the Ace is good for edging and crack. Will I have a problem climbing walls that are mostly flat? Walls that I would have to smear a lot.
I also have a heel problam. My toes fit perfectly but my heel is loose. If I go a half a size smaller my toes don't even fit in. What should I do? I been told to get a diff. brand but I fit into the Ace's toes perfectly.
Regards,
Ascension
I climb to forget my problems. I climb to be free.
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bouldertoad
Jul 14, 2002, 4:46 AM
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The Ace is a great all around shoe. It is not going to be the best at super step sort routes or maybe not hte best slab shoe but it is a great shoe nonetheless. As far as being able to "feel" the rock since you are a beginner (i am assuming) you should just try and climb. Slippers take astrong foot to be able to use properly and that comes with time. A softer shoe is a great second shoe that you can use while at the gym or while bouldering to help develop foot strength. Most people who do all types of climbing ie..sport bouldering trad and aid probably have shoes that they prefer for whatever they are doing that day. When I am at seneca there is no way I am going to wear my Pyros but my Newtons fit the bill perfectly.
Just climb in your aces until you figure out what YOU want in a shoe not what everyone else tells you that you want.
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hoonah
Jul 14, 2002, 5:11 PM
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I'm also a beginner so can't give much advice but i also have boreal shoes (the ninja ones)and i'm really glad with them. U'd better try them yourself on the real rock once and then if u've got any problems try another brand maybe but i don't think u'll find any...
Rock it up!
Laura
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wildtrail
Jul 14, 2002, 6:00 PM
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All I have to say is this. It is up to you how important it is to feel the rock. Board lasted shoes are typically recommended for beginners for foot support and skill developement and then you move to a slip lasted shoe.
I've been climbing for a pretty long time and I have three pairs of shoes. Two slip, one board. I still climb in my first pair. My board lasted Enduros. Slip is nice, but I don't like them. My Enduros will kick the heck out of them any day and they are far superior for all day routes as your feet get more support and don't get tired out as easily. It is all preference.
I say, use your Aces until you have some rock climbing experience before you make another expensive investment. If you don't like the way they perform, get a new pair.
Steve
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likethegoddess
Jul 15, 2002, 2:49 AM
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My major concern here is that your foot is slipping. That tells me that, even though th toes are fitting well, the shoe is not. If you can (and you should be able to), go back and try some others. BTW, how many shoes did you try before the Aces?
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ascension
Jul 15, 2002, 7:58 PM
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I went to two REI's and tried on every single pair. Took a long time, too long.
I can still return the Ace's and get a new pair becasue of the 30 day money back thing, but the Ace's seem to be working well with Gym climbing. For my heel problam I recently invented a solution. I cut the tip of a pair of socks and just wear the heels and that tightens it up pretty well.
My main issue is if the Aces will hold up when I climb the real thing - my first time -at Pinical Peak Mountain, here in Arizona. I heard that you have to smear a lot to get up there and that my stiff soles will slip and I will fall. Thats why I was even considering a different shoe. The Aces are an expensive investment, so I wasn't sure if I should get another pair or not. THey work well in the Gym just not sure if they will work smearing on the real thing. Hopefully this Forum will help me make a decision before my 30 day return policy has expired.
Thanks for all the help guys and the ladies as well.
Acension
[ This Message was edited by: ascension on 2002-07-15 13:03 ]
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calamity_chk
Jul 15, 2002, 8:06 PM
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Ascension,
I'm also a beginner and received similar criticism of my first pair of shoes (which I have come to *love* and *adore*). The piece of advice that stuck in my mind when I asked a similar question of some more experienced climbers is "It's the climber that makes the shoe, not the shoe that makes the climber."
I've found that focusing on technique, etc. is much more important to me at my current stage of climbing than the nuances between models and brands of any gear/apparel. I'll start worrying about that stuff after I have more of the basic skills honed a little.
Just my .02 .. hope it helped the penny jar!
[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-07-15 13:07 ]
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jakewolf
Jul 15, 2002, 8:14 PM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2002
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Aces are trucker, they will last forever, We have some old aces in the KU club cabinet from 6 years ago and they have held several resoles. They will take a short while to get used to but then they will do it all outdoors. I agree with the previous post, the climber makes the shoes, just get used to the aces they will serve you well.
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benfieldj
Jul 15, 2002, 8:22 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2002
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The Boreal Ace is one of the best all around rock shoes ever made. They are more than adequate for most climbers and they last very well. I have a pair I have had for 4 years and have resoled them 3 times. If you fall off wearing the Ace I feel sure you would have fallen off in any other shoe.
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