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raymondjeffrey
Jun 17, 2005, 2:59 AM
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Who on this site has sent Midnight Lighting in Camp 4? I know the pros who have sent it, but I was just wondering about any unsponsored talented folks out there. By the way congrats, I could not even get both feet off of the ground when I was there.
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ikefromla
Jun 17, 2005, 3:11 AM
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LOTS of people have done it; it's only V8. I haven't been to the valley since i was like 14, so I haven't yet, but LOTS of folks have... waay too many to get any sort of figure on here.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 17, 2005, 3:31 AM
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"it's only V8"
Most "v10" climbers don't and can't send midnight lightning. Something about a scary awkward highball mantle.
Chuckle
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pbjosh
Jun 17, 2005, 3:35 AM
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That doesn't change the fact that countless people have sent it, but it speaks volumes about "most v10 climbers" as you qualify them.
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 24, 2005, 7:52 AM
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the mantle isnt really highball, infact the whole problem isnt really that high, unless the original route up the slab is taken. the exit left is for sure less than 20 ft otd.
*i heard that sharma cruised to the mantle in flip-flops then jumped off...
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ikefromla
Jun 24, 2005, 8:01 AM
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it's apparently superhighball if you're alpnclmbr1, the expert of all things requiring expertise.
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azrockclimber
Jun 24, 2005, 11:05 AM
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since everybody is being so specific, I was recntly told that it was V9...it has been upgraded. Over that last few years.
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flowerpowerlover
Jun 24, 2005, 7:25 PM
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^^^totally solid v8. the Yosemite guidebook has it rated at v9 but Ive also heard that in an old guide it was rated v7, DRTOPO's got it at v8. nonetheless, the general vote seems v8.
to the expert of expertise's credit, Ive seen some sicly strong dudes literally cruise to the mantle without a thought and get TOTALLY SHUTDOWN at the mantle 10+ times in a row.
but then again, i only have 31 posts, so what could i know...
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sidepull
Jun 24, 2005, 8:07 PM
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Just a note, the original question was:
In reply to: Who on this site has sent Midnight Lighting in Camp 4?
I think it's a legit question and perhaps even more interesting than squibbling over grades or height. In fact, maybe we should start a new post about grading mantles, they should have a separate M grade, like Midnight Lightning is v8 but it has a butt hard M10 mantle whereas Black Lung is v13 but it's got an easy M0 mantle.
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grayhghost
Jun 24, 2005, 8:29 PM
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I went up to the mantel twice and jumped off too scared.
Then I broke my feet on Serenity Crack.
John Sherman (the man who invented the V-scale)
called it benchmark V7, but that was before a bit of
the lip broke off.
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gunksgoer
Jun 24, 2005, 9:02 PM
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In reply to: Just a note, the original question was: In reply to: Who on this site has sent Midnight Lighting in Camp 4? (bold added). I think it's a legit question and perhaps even more interesting than squibbling over grades or height. In fact, maybe we should start a new post about grading mantles, they should have a separate M grade, like Midnight Lightning is v8 but it has a butt hard M10 mantle whereas Black Lung is v13 but it's got an easy M0 mantle.
For it to be rated with M grades there would need to be a glacier on top. :P
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t-dog
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Jun 24, 2005, 9:12 PM
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scarry, I knew a guy who looked a lot like this one. different name though....
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reprieve
Jun 24, 2005, 9:21 PM
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hey, i've got an idea...let's argue about ratings. :roll:
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james_climber
Jun 24, 2005, 9:36 PM
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In reply to: Just a note, the original question was: In reply to: Who on this site has sent Midnight Lighting in Camp 4? (bold added). .
Lots of comments about the grade and mantles , but still nobody have sent it on the site
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sidepull
Jun 24, 2005, 9:56 PM
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In reply to: For it to be rated with M grades there would need to be a glacier on top. :P
Good catch - especially embarrassing since I was trying to be cute. Okay, p-grades, for "press out." I've heard our friends across the pond refering to it that way. How about it?
Sorry for the thread drift - post up if you sent.
me, no.
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neuroshock
Jun 24, 2005, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: Good catch - especially embarrassing since I was trying to be cute. Okay, p-grades, for "press out." I've heard our friends across the pond refering to it that way. How about it? Sorry for the thread drift - post up if you sent. me, no.
as for 'p-grades', isn't the P-scale used in the region around phoenix for bouldering grades? i remember seeing a guidebook 3-4 years ago for oak flats that had problems rated as P3, etc.
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socalbolter
Jun 24, 2005, 11:30 PM
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I agree with the posts above that this thing has seen many sends.
Although historical, it's not hard enough (in today's world) to warrant too much attention when people send it. It seems like I see one or two people do it every time I'm up there.
I have done it, although I chickened out a few times before committing to the mantle. The mantle is actually not too bad once you make the decision to go for it. It's more awkward and scary than truly hard. Ratings will always be a topic of argument (whether it's bouldering or routes), but I thought it was good at V8. As someone above mentioned the problem itself is not all that tall (given the army of spotters and sea of pads that appear of out nowhere whenever someone tries the problem) with the only highball part being the balancy slab moves to exit from the mantle. Up to the mantle it's probably no harder than V6 or so. People routinely make it that far and then fail to commit to the lip moves, thinking they've done the business and have only turned back due to the height. In my opinion the mantle is the business.
I'm quite sure that others will add their name to the list, as we've got a ton of folks on this site that are much stronger (physically and mentally) boulderers than I am.
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sidepull
Jun 27, 2005, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Good catch - especially embarrassing since I was trying to be cute. Okay, p-grades, for "press out." I've heard our friends across the pond refering to it that way. How about it? Sorry for the thread drift - post up if you sent. me, no. haven't -- yet ;) first time to the valley this september as for 'p-grades', isn't the P-scale used in the region around phoenix for bouldering grades? i remember seeing a guidebook 3-4 years ago for oak flats that had problems rated as P3, etc.
You're right and I feel like an even bigger loser because I climb in Oak Flats. Okay, can't use mantle because of the m, and no press-out because of the p so I'll propose BW for Beached Whale scale. So, tack on a good BW10 and all sorts of people will sketch at the lip.
Okay, no more scale development for me.
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vivalargo
Jun 27, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Another great problem of that era is the Amazon Face at Curry Village, at mid 5.12, not so hard as ML, but about fifty feet high.
Yee ha!
JL
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ivalley
Jun 27, 2005, 11:53 PM
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In reply to: *i heard that sharma cruised to the mantle in flip-flops then jumped off...
I heard sharma did like eight one finger dynos in a row to this crazy tongue gaston move! :roll:
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kydd76
Jun 27, 2005, 11:58 PM
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and then he?
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