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caughtinside
Jun 6, 2005, 4:29 PM
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Informal poll, sitting here at work on monday.
Do most people take the #13/huge nut with them on most climbs?
I thought that thing was really big, so I didn't buy one. I just carry 2 #12s (one that I bootied 8^) )
I find this size very useful for the bigger nut gear options. But I might be biased. Since I don't have the 13, I don't look for places to place it.
Thoughts?
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ryanb
Jun 6, 2005, 5:08 PM
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I placed mine twice last time I went up. Both times as a joke (my second thinks its useless dead weight). I don't carry it or the other big nuts for alpine. I used to place it more on easy trad but now I'll opt for a cam to make things quicker. I still carry it to use in anchors and for occasional placements. You get that thing in right and its bomber. I probably place it more then the 12 working on the theorey that you place the biggest nut you can fit in. Or most rock contact anyways.
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asandh
Jun 6, 2005, 5:30 PM
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:)
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duckwalk
Jun 6, 2005, 5:31 PM
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I've used my #10 Rock quite a few times. I can think of two climbs that it is the easiest method for good, quick pro, and several others where it was just so bomber I couldn't resist. I usually place alot more passive pro than most people though...
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keinangst
Jun 6, 2005, 5:47 PM
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I carry one, but only because I don't carry any cams and I'm not near an uncomfortable rack weight on most climbs.
But for weight, look into the small sizes of hexes slung with Dyneema. I use those interchangeably with the larger nuts...small hexes in a camming position are tenuous unless they have perfect placements, so I usually just chock them in.
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pbjosh
Jun 6, 2005, 5:57 PM
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If a route is easy, you probably don't need the piece. I'll carry like #4-8,10,12 stoppers and a handful of cams.
If a route is pretty hard, you probably want to place cams in the off fingers / tight hands areas if you can, they're a lot faster. I'll carry HB offsets (in the brass sizes) if needed, and the same stoppers as above or more of the smaller stuff. On something like 5.12 rattly fingers or thumbstacks, I'm much more likely to plug a green camalot than dick with a #13 stopper.
In the mountains the smaller hexes are more useful anyways.
So I basically never carry the #13... not that it can't be useful, just rarely do I have a use for it.
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mrtristan
Jun 6, 2005, 6:57 PM
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I use mine a lot for easyish trad climbs around here. Lots of the trad I do is on quartzite and the rock seems to favor nuts rather than cams. Never used it on granite. I could probably do without it, but come on, it's not like the weight of one more nut will determine whether you can do a climb or not. I always take it with me.
-Tristan
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gunksgoer
Jun 6, 2005, 6:58 PM
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I LOVE the 13 stopper :D . Its probably my favorite passive piece to place. Slotting it into a bomber crack and setting it is sooo reasuring, much more so that a cam. I always bring it, and would much rather have it than a hex of the same size, i dont like fiddling with hexes at all. -ws
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vegastradguy
Jun 7, 2005, 4:13 PM
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i use HB offsets and use the largest all the time (i believe its close to the #13 BD) and when i carried the BD's, i used the big one frequently.
i tend to throw these in those weird little pods RR tends to have here and there where you just put the biggest stopper you have in and let the wire drop through a thin slot....larry prefers dolt nuts for these placements, though...
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caughtinside
Jun 7, 2005, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: i tend to throw these in those weird little pods RR tends to have here and there where you just put the biggest stopper you have in and let the wire drop through a thin slot....larry prefers dolt nuts for these placements, though...
I do the same thing, but I found that the #12 does the job just as well. So, I carry 2 #12s.
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jerrygarcia
Jun 7, 2005, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: Slotting it into a bomber crack and setting it is sooo reasuring, much more so that a cam.
Agreed
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pbcowboy77
Jun 24, 2005, 12:12 AM
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I place my 13 alot at Tahquitz. You can do alot of those climbs passive only, so it comes in handy.
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musicman
Jun 24, 2005, 12:34 AM
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In reply to: I use mine a lot for easyish trad climbs around here..........I could probably do without it, but come on, it's not like the weight of one more nut will determine whether you can do a climb or not. I always take it with me. -Tristan
although while climbing up Rock Canyon rope drag pulled it out and your number 13 nut slid down the rope and hit my number one nut if you get what i'm saying. not a pleasant experience, so yeah, you could probabaly do without it. haha
seriously though, it's not that big of a difference is it? can you trad hardmen really feel the difference of your rack with the #13 there or not? do you grab the sling out of your trunk and say "oh great, who put on the #13!" without acually looking at the rack? i can see this on really long multi-pitch, i guess anyways haha. well, i'm new to trad, so i'm much more comfortable bringing it all up, instead of leaving some behind. I always start thinking the "what if" questions.
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caughtinside
Jun 24, 2005, 12:40 AM
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It's not about the weight of one more stopper, it's about the usefulness of that piece. Personally, I have found that it is more useful for me to carry a 2nd #12. The #13 is the size where I usually plug a cam. I carry 2 cams in that size, so I don't think I need a 3rd piece of the same size.
Also, you can always make the justification that 'it's just one more piece,' but if you're not placing it, there is no reason to carry it.
If you are placing your #13 though, good for you! I'm not trying to dog it, maybe it's just how I think of pro, or the places I climb.
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climbinginchico
Jun 24, 2005, 1:24 AM
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There is an absolutely bomber, textbook #13 stopper placement on Royal Arches, the pitch leading to the start of the rappell route. Full contact on both sides, slotted deep into a vertical crack. Just gotta extend that baby.
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caughtinside
Jun 24, 2005, 1:37 AM
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In reply to: There is an absolutely bomber, textbook #13 stopper placement on Royal Arches, the pitch leading to the start of the rappell route. Full contact on both sides, slotted deep into a vertical crack. Just gotta extend that baby.
I don't doubt it. But there's gear anywhere you want it on RA! I left my #13 on the ground and got by just fine. :lol:
See my profile pic, I ain't lyin! 8^)
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climbinginchico
Jun 24, 2005, 3:34 AM
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thats a fun penji huh? we did the 5.7 splitter crack variation, not sure what pitch that was, i linked 2 towards the top, and did the funky 5.9 variation at that tree next to the big right facing dihedral after the penji.
quality route.
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tattooed_climber
Jun 25, 2005, 5:45 AM
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WC #10 rock is the same as a BD #13.... the WC is a bit longer tough and a bit wider but same taper...
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mrtristan
Jun 25, 2005, 5:52 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I use mine a lot for easyish trad climbs around here..........I could probably do without it, but come on, it's not like the weight of one more nut will determine whether you can do a climb or not. I always take it with me. -Tristan although while climbing up Rock Canyon rope drag pulled it out and your number 13 nut slid down the rope and hit my number one nut if you get what i'm saying. not a pleasant experience, so yeah, you could probabaly do without it. haha
Meh. You probably deserved it.
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climboard
Jun 25, 2005, 5:54 PM
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I carry stoppers up to #10 and then the pink and red tricam take over from there. Those two tricams are more versatile, cover the same range, and together are a third of the weight of number 11-13 stoppers.
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 25, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Big nuts(11-13) are often an attempt to compensate for a lack of balls.
(the exception is when your only gear is bigs nuts slung with cord....)
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