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blitzkrieg_climber13
Jun 24, 2005, 3:03 AM
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hey everyone, i was just wondering if anyone else had the same thought that i had. i went to echo cliffs in westlake today and supposedly the guide to the santa monicas guidebook said the climbs i did were around 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a. that 9 was about right, maybe 9+. but the 5.8 and 10a were much harder than the ratings. my partner and i thought the 8 was around 9+(maybe 10a) and the 10a was about 10b-c. just wondering if anyone had problems with the ratings there. any beta would be appreciated.
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t-dog
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Jun 24, 2005, 8:20 PM
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most of the climbs at Echo are fairly long if all you do is boulder at a gym, which will make them seem much harder as you'll pumped out of your brains.
Just a thought...
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caughtinside
Jun 24, 2005, 8:37 PM
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Do you have a range of experience at other crags to make this comparison?
Or, are you making this comparison by what you climb at your gym?
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climbsomething
Jun 24, 2005, 8:49 PM
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Echo is an endurance crag, so actually, the individual moves are often easier than the guidebook rating implies. That said, if your endurance is poor, Echo may seem even more challenging...
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hangerlessbolt
Jun 24, 2005, 8:56 PM
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Sustained routes at any grade are gonna feel harder than one-move wonders with the same rating…goes without saying
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vivalargo
Jun 24, 2005, 9:00 PM
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Malibu is about hard moves; Echo is all strength endurance. Most of the .12 routes are technically low to mid 5.11, but they'll blast your arms off your body if you're not enduro fit. Folks who are not especially good boulderers but have great enduro kick ass at Echo.
JL
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jt512
Jun 25, 2005, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: Folks who are not especially good boulderers but have great enduro kick ass at Echo.
I resemble that remark!
-Jay
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jt512
Jun 25, 2005, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: hey everyone, i was just wondering if anyone else had the same thought that i had. i went to echo cliffs in westlake today and supposedly the guide to the santa monicas guidebook said the climbs i did were around 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a. that 9 was about right, maybe 9+. but the 5.8 and 10a were much harder than the ratings. my partner and i thought the 8 was around 9+(maybe 10a) and the 10a was about 10b-c. just wondering if anyone had problems with the ratings there. any beta would be appreciated.
At Echo the easy routes feel hard and the hard routes feel easy. Therefore, skip anything rated 5.10d or less, start working he 11a's an the Java Wall, and work your way up from there.
Seriously.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Jun 25, 2005, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: hey everyone, i was just wondering if anyone else had the same thought that i had. i went to echo cliffs in westlake today and supposedly the guide to the santa monicas guidebook said the climbs i did were around 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a. that 9 was about right, maybe 9+. but the 5.8 and 10a were much harder than the ratings. my partner and i thought the 8 was around 9+(maybe 10a) and the 10a was about 10b-c. just wondering if anyone had problems with the ratings there. any beta would be appreciated. At Echo the easy routes feel hard and the hard routes feel easy. Therefore, skip anything rated 5.10d or less, start working he 11a's an the Java Wall, and work your way up from there. Seriously. -Jay |
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toejam
Jun 25, 2005, 11:05 PM
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Sounds like you are talking about the grotto. I think the 8 and 9 are about right, the 9 might even be a little soft. If the 10a is superfly then it is also dead-on, but the first clip is scary.
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ihuang
Jun 26, 2005, 12:06 AM
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Most of the people I climbed with at Echo agree that the grades are very soft by a couple of letter grades.
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