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jitsu
Jun 27, 2005, 11:00 AM
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Hi all,
we want to climb the nose in September 2005 in a party of three. We think about climbing and hauling the first day up to the beginning of the Stoveleg Cracks (pitch 8), fix ropes and rappel down to the ground. The next day we want to jug back up to the Stoveleg Cracks instead of the Sickle Ledge (as described in the topo of supertopo.com and various trip reports). Is this strategy good to save time? Any comments on this plan are welcome.
Regards,
Jan from Germany
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pietrorago
Jun 27, 2005, 11:16 AM
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Yes, for me is a good strategy (I've do it) because until stovelegs is difficult hauling the pig and you loose a lot of time, in this manner you save time and energy, sleepping down is always more confortable :wink:
Somebody tells is less etic :? but .... is a problem foryou ? :D
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lambone
Jun 27, 2005, 3:01 PM
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how many ropes do you need to fix up to Stovelegs?
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cjstudent
Jun 27, 2005, 3:48 PM
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I just climbed the nose a few weeks ago.
I can tell you that hauling that much at a time sucks. During our first attempt when we bailed because the route was so crowded, but we hauled and jugged to sickle ledge...that in my opinion kind of sucked. On our 2nd attempt which we completed the wall in 2.5 days..We hauled pretty much pitch to pitch (with some exceptions such as we didnt haul to camp 4). But we climbed to Dolt tower the first night and did not do any fixing of lines.
YMMV
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pietrorago
Jun 28, 2005, 7:33 AM
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In reply to: how many ropes do you need to fix up to Stovelegs?
There's bolts every 50 mt., so with 4 rope you are down, probably with 3 rope of 60 mt. you can arrive down but I prefere have fractioned fix rope not a single rope of 160 mt.
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pietrorago
Jun 28, 2005, 7:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: how many ropes do you need to fix up to Stovelegs? There's bolts every 50 mt., so with 4 rope you are down, probably with 3 rope of 60 mt. you can arrive down but I prefere have fractioned fix rope not a single rope of 160 mt.
Sorry, this is if you fix from sickle, if you start from the start of stovelegs you need 6 50 mt., but I've do the sickle fix and I don't know how are the rappel from the stovelegs
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texplorer
Jun 28, 2005, 3:29 PM
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You are going to need alot of rope to fix to the stovelegs. At least five ropes, and maybe even six. If you do this you will probably want someone to be at the base to pick them up for you on the second day when you head up.
I would say go the regular way and haul to sickle ledge and then go from there. If your really fast you could just climb to Dolt tower that first day, especially if you free climb some through the stovelegs.
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jitsu
Jul 7, 2005, 1:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2005
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Hi everyone,
thank you all for your response on the topic!
To point out what we were thinking of:
The hauling to sickle and above to the stoveleg cracks may be difficult as I read from various betas and trip reports. So we were thinking of fixing 5 ropes from the beginning of the stoveleg cracks to the ground and hauling there straight instead of via the sickle ledge. As I can see from the topo the pitches between sickle and stoveleg have a traversing nature and the hauling could get easier on the blank face than there. Also if the sickle is crowded, we thought we could start early before sunrise jugging/hauling the fixed lines and maybe have the chance to pass other parties this way.
But the main question is, if the hauling could get easier/straighter with that strategy.
I have never seen the route, so I do not know what the rappel/retreat/jug route looks like.
Best regards,
Jan
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kalcario
Jul 7, 2005, 2:08 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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another good strategy involves fixing just to Sickle but on the day you fix, bring the bag(s), keep going to Dolt Hole and leave the bags there. That way you aren't involved in the inevitable clusterfuck on Sickle when you blast, also you aren't dragging the bags across the somewhat loose 4th class pitch above Sickle which might dislodge rockfall onto people jumaring the fixed lines below you. The only logistical drawback is that your sleeping bags are up there in the haul bags when you are on the Valley floor waiting to blast, so you kinda need 2 sleeping bags...
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