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djmacedonas
Jul 11, 2002, 11:55 PM
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Hi all...
Just joined your great forum here. I have a question about cams... I'm in my third season of sport climbing...second serious. Some sport climbs here (Utah) require some protection (for belayer or climber) and I want to start doing some trad stuff anyway.
Yesterday I bought a couple of useful cams from IME, a 1 1/2 DMM and a #3 Metolius... I wanted to try both manufacturers and both are cheaper than Camalots. Then I went to Recreation Outlet and they had a whole crapload of cheaper cams (around $35). They were manufactured by people I never heard of... Kong, OCUN, and Rock Empire. The designs seemed comparable to metolius and BDs offerings, but the workmanship appeared a little shoddier.
Oh yeah, they were all UIAA and/or CE certified.
Do any of you have any experience with these? $20 may not seem like a lot of savings, but it is when multiplied by 10.
Thanks in advance
DJM
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traide
Jul 12, 2002, 1:29 AM
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I've been to rec outlet and seen most of the gear that they have. I don't do a lot of trad, and can't advise you on the actual cams, but i can say that the gear they have there is great. kong, for example, is an awesome brand, and is one of the most popular brands in europe. they make first rate gear.
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eminem_imposter
Jul 13, 2002, 5:54 AM
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i would ask someone who works there if they have any experience using it, maybe hang out at the local gym or crag and ask around. im just starting to get into sport so i cant advise you on anything and you may not even want to trust my judgment but thats just my .02. i dont get why people assume cheaper means crappy
i thought about this overnight and the way i see it, as long as its aproved, it should be ok. just test it a few times for ease of motion and general usage. maybe even bring your harness along and see how it sits in it, is it going to hinder your falls? hehehe
[ This Message was edited by: eminem_imposter on 2002-07-13 17:09 ]
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bigdan
Jul 15, 2002, 12:42 AM
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coming from someone who has actually used cams...
you'll do fine with the cheaper ones if it's just for the occasional straightforward anchor or something like that. but over time, or if you're doing any aid, you'll notice the difference. the cheaper brands aren't as durable in my experience, and they definitely don't feel as solid. i personally stick with bd, metolius, and cch.
when it comes to cams, you really do get what you pay for. but i don't think you're sacrificing safety when you pay less. just maybe some of the details (durability, performance by sketchy placements, etc).
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djmacedonas
Jul 15, 2002, 2:10 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
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Thanks for the info...
Actually, I found out some things about some of the 'cheaper' offerings that I didn't quite like... for example, the lack of machined cam stops so that the cam can't be used as passive pro... I think an extra $10 bucks for DMM or Metolius, or an extra $15 for BD is probably worth it... especially for durability.
djm
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pir8penguin
Jul 15, 2002, 3:17 AM
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exactomundo! in my opinion, i'd lug the heavier but more versatile BD's over any cam on the market.
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wildtrail
Jul 15, 2002, 4:03 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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Aliens too. The darn things are bombproof, they are the only ones that haven't ever popped out on me, and they are cheap (only $40 each).
I know, I know. I have been advocating the fact that cams, to me are cheating in the "Cams Cheating?" thread. I never said I haven't used them, I just don't often. Maybe one in a 100 placements. Besides, I got them all as gifts. So, I use them on occasion.
Anyway, the Aliens are quite fantastic. Then again, this is coming from a nut and hex man. I say, give 'em a shot. They are worth the money (that I didn't pay for them )!
Steve
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johnhenry
Jul 15, 2002, 4:58 AM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2002
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Check this out amigo!
http://www.climbing.com/Pages/equipment/equipment-212.html
Rock empire robots get a nice review and I groove on them too!
John
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arsenalcrater
Jul 15, 2002, 5:22 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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Aliens can be bomber...but also try getting them out. They can be as notorious for getting fixed as a tri-cam. As for the lesser known cams, Wired Bliss makes a bomber unit also.
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topher
Jul 15, 2002, 4:16 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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i would say get some of the robots or another cheaper cam in sizes that wont be using every day, around my area, we usaly only use tcus and the small bd's but i still have a few bigger rock empiers for the few climbs that have like one "big" placment. i couldn't justify the extra money if i wasnt going be using them all the time. and i am just as happy with the rock empiers as i am with my other cams, there all uiaa and all boomber if placed well.
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radistrad
Jul 15, 2002, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
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Hey, you get what you pay for. My rack is mainly Ailens and BD's. I have a few WC's and Metiolus. I really dont like the WC's they just dont fit as well as the BD's or AIlens do. Spend the extra $$$ you'll be glad that you did in the long run. I wish I had bought some more BD's instead of the other cams.
The only exception for the Metiolus is the tri cams, but the Ailens, especially the offsets can replace those.
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joshklingbeil
Jul 15, 2002, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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i took a nice 15 footer on a bommer no 5 robot cam at the newly reopened pinnacle peak here in az even know the center lobes are close together and act like a tcu ill take a wipper on one in solid granite hell why not soft sandstone sound fun wippertime!!
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tradklime
Aug 2, 2002, 9:45 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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Weight and bulk should be considered. It makes a huge difference when you are carrying 10+ units. I just sold my Camalots to buy some "cheaper" cams, mainly for size and weight. I'm glad I did.
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