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richards
Jul 15, 2002, 9:37 AM
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A young family has forced me to take a break from climbing, I am just starting back now after 3 - 4 years.
But I have already picked up an injury and I was wondering if someone could offer some advice or point me to some material that describes the management of climbing injuries.
Even the smallest amount of climbing (3-4 single pitch routes) well with-in my grade causes a considerable amount of pain on the inside of my elbows once I have finished the route. (I am not aware of any pain while I am climbing) There is little or no swelling and the pain subsides after a few days but returns immediately after a climb.
Having had such a long break from climbing, I am rather keen to get started again and I can not begin to tell you how frustrating this problem is!
If anyone can help I would be most gratefull
Thanks
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jdean
Jul 15, 2002, 11:00 AM
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Hey Richard,
it sounds like you have elbow tendonitis (a.k.a. medial epicondylitis). This topic has been discussed quite a bit here and if you search the forums for 'tendonitis', you should come up with some good info on it. It is fairly common among climbers and is treatable to an extent. I hope this helps.
M@
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fishypete
Jul 15, 2002, 11:08 AM
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Welcome to the tendonitis club!
Elbows are one of the most common issue around the climbing scene, I have had my fair share.
It has also been discussed quite a bit on this site:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=9387&forum=25
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=11078&forum=25&5
In summary the answer is easy. REST! and then rest some more!
Ibuprofen can help to reduce the inflammation during a climbing outing (when taken before you start), but the bottom line is if it is hurting afterwards, you have been working it too hard.
To make matters worse, it generally takes weeks/months of rest for the chronic cases to subside, and then when you restart again you need to start VERY slowly and increase the load in EXTREMELY small increments because tendons increase in strength a lot slower than muscle (it is measured in months).
This is actually one of the fundamental problems, as you climb, the muscles quickly become too strong for the tendons, and the gap just keeps getting wider as they continue to improve more rapidly.
In Summary: REST, ICE, IBUPROFEN then restart very slowly and build it up slowly, e.g. over months.
Cheers
Fishy.
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micahmcguire
Jul 16, 2002, 5:23 AM
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you may well have strained your Pronator Teres, which is a small band of muscle running down the inside of your forarms from the elbow joint about halfway down your arm. A strained pronator teres is often misdiagnosed among climbers as being "elbow tendonitis." Tendonitis is more likely to bother you persistantly as opposed to a strained muscle, which is why it seems to get better like that. Try laying off it for about two weeks. Also, light physical therapy can be benificial. Talk to a physical therapist about exercises you can do to help rehabilitate a strained pronator teres, I'm sure he or she can help you out.
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duskerhu
Jul 16, 2002, 6:34 AM
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You also might try "sports massage" before and after you climb. This will give your muscles and tendons a little warm up before you start climbing. You might also want to actually do some type of warm up for your arms after the "SM" like streching and large circles to small circles, or anything that uses and gets those muscles use and warm before you actually climb.
Good luck!
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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mialovesclimbing
Jul 19, 2002, 9:31 AM
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Hi Richard,
I have had the same problem as you discribed. You have to rest, itīs the only way to heal. YOu have streched ligaments.
I have the same problem currently in my shoulder. There are some pills you can take to help the healing process but anyway you shouldnīt pick up climbing unfil you are fully fine, otherwise it will never be good. I know its a pain in the ass, I fight myself to not go climbing... It can take 10 days to 1 month to heal.
Mia
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interruptor
Jul 19, 2002, 10:57 AM
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I guess that's the same thing wih my right shoulder... think you should see a doctor anyway (I'm going to). Nothing to get too alarmed by, but, anyway...
That's the reason why I'm not climbing 5.14.
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interruptor
Jul 19, 2002, 11:04 AM
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I guess that's the same thing wih my right shoulder... think you should see a doctor anyway (I'm going to). Nothing to get too alarmed by, but, anyway...
That's the reason why I'm not climbing 5.14.
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jt512
Jul 19, 2002, 3:49 PM
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Inside of the elbows? Sounds like medial epicondylitis to me. Stop climbing for a few weeks and stretch the forearms. I'm tired of posting descriptions of the stretches, so please search the forums for my previous posts on this topic.
The condition is reversible if treated early. If ignored, say good-bye to climbing.
-Jay
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coldclimb
Jul 19, 2002, 4:03 PM
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I've got that on one arm. I heard on the radio that it is called golf elbow. Same thing as tennis elbow, but on the inside. From what I've heard, most people agree that the best cure is rest.
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jt512
Jul 19, 2002, 4:24 PM
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OK, here we go again: Rest isn't enough. Climbing causes the flexor muscles of the forearm to become shortened, which causes chronic irritation of the medial epicondyle. Consquently, the forearm muscles must be stretched regularly to lengthen the muscles and prevent irritation. In addition, light reverse wrist curls will help prevent imbalances between the flexor and extensor muscles.
-Jay
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ravens_wing_jim
Jul 24, 2002, 6:02 AM
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1st of all,
if your coming back from a few years off,
you need to slow down. (I know thats easier
said,than done.)
But with the currant pain you have,
take a couple weeks off...and then
try to come back and climb no more than
3 days a week on easier routes.
I've got tendenitis in my right shoulder
from not listening to my body, and sometimes
its no fun.
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richards
Jul 29, 2002, 9:27 AM
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Thanks for all your comments and feedback - I am now seeking proffesional advice, I will let you know how I get on
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