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marinaaxid25
Jun 30, 2005, 2:55 AM
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Since I'v been climbing regularly for almost a year, I'm looking into getting another pair, yet I'm a bit overwhelmed by the different brands and what they have to offer.
After doing a lot of research, I was thinking: Is it best to stick to comfort (my current pair is Five Ten), or go for something more technical, say, the Boreal Stingmas?
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styndall
Jun 30, 2005, 3:08 AM
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When I'd been climbing for about a year and a half, I bought a pair of Katanas, sized waaaaaaay down, and bouldered in them, sucking up the constant agony. Then, a year goes by, and I bought a pair of mad rock Phoenixes, which are the big floppy yellow lace-ups. Strangely enough, I can still climb the same problems.
I'm a huge fan of comfort.
Always remember that (unless you're some kind of V12 mutant) whatever you're climbing, somebody strong out there can send it in blown-out flip-flops. Get stronger, and don't make your feet hurt.
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curt
Jun 30, 2005, 3:17 AM
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In reply to: When I'd been climbing for about a year and a half, I bought a pair of Katanas, sized waaaaaaay down, and bouldered in them, sucking up the constant agony. Then, a year goes by, and I bought a pair of mad rock Phoenixes, which are the big floppy yellow lace-ups. Strangely enough, I can still climb the same problems. I'm a huge fan of comfort. Always remember that (unless you're some kind of V12 mutant) whatever you're climbing, somebody strong out there can send it in blown-out flip-flops. Get stronger, and don't make your feet hurt.
I agree. Also, Boreal shoes have really crappy rubber on them. I think one of the ingredients must be teflon.
Curt
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skecthballer
Jun 30, 2005, 3:19 AM
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techincal shoes don't really hurt that much, unles your a pussy, your shoes will break in and contour to your feet. come on people
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cgailey
Jun 30, 2005, 3:22 AM
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How about both...the mythos, when sized small, is super capable, but also comfortable.
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marinaaxid25
Jun 30, 2005, 3:29 AM
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In reply to: When I'd been climbing for about a year and a half, I bought a pair of Katanas, sized waaaaaaay down, and bouldered in them, sucking up the constant agony. Then, a year goes by, and I bought a pair of mad rock Phoenixes, which are the big floppy yellow lace-ups. Strangely enough, I can still climb the same problems. I'm a huge fan of comfort.
One of the criterion is toe-box size. Mine's wide, which is unusual for most feet. I'm not jamming my feet in too small shoes. I've become exposed to foot issues after my stint as an equestrian.
One of the folks I climb with has a pair of boreals, and the toebox is seemingly compatible to my foot.
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curt
Jun 30, 2005, 3:31 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: When I'd been climbing for about a year and a half, I bought a pair of Katanas, sized waaaaaaay down, and bouldered in them, sucking up the constant agony. Then, a year goes by, and I bought a pair of mad rock Phoenixes, which are the big floppy yellow lace-ups. Strangely enough, I can still climb the same problems. I'm a huge fan of comfort. One of the criterion is toe-box size. Mine's wide, which is unusual for most feet. I'm not jamming my feet in too small shoes. I've become exposed to foot issues after my stint as an equestrian. One of the folks I climb with has a pair of boreals, and the toebox is seemingly compatible to my foot.
Are you a good ice-skater?
Curt
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hortisb
Jun 30, 2005, 3:38 AM
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Shoes can be tight and comfortable. The secret is to find the right shoes for your feet. Try on several different pairs and find what feels best. Someone mentioned Mythos; those are a great, comfortable shoe.
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climbinginchico
Jun 30, 2005, 3:41 AM
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OK, weird, somehow my other post got split off to another thread. here it is in the regular one:
This really depends on what you will be using the shoes for. Are you getting more into outdoors climbing? Gym climbing? Multipitch routes? Steep or overhung sport?
In general, the longer you will be wearing the shoes continuously (think multipitch trad climbing) the more comfortable you want them. I have LaSportival Mythos sized so my toes are flat for longer easier routes. I have Evolv Bandits sized a little more aggressively (toes right at the end, barely curled) yet still comfortable for longer days.
If you're doing short hard sport climbing, you can get away with something more aggressive, if you feel like it's helping you. I have some Evolv Kaos sized pretty tight, they are great for small edging and steeper climbs.
Above all else, make sure the shoe fits you well. You don't want your feet to be hurting after wearing the shoes for 10 minutes. Don't go crazy tight, this can cause a number of problems like ingrown toenails, malformed feet (if you're younger) and general foot pain.
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marinaaxid25
Jun 30, 2005, 3:41 AM
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In reply to: Are you a good ice-skater?
That's funny you asked that, but no I can't skate. But I did sports that involved quick and light footwork.
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gunked
Jun 30, 2005, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: techincal shoes don't really hurt that much, unles your a sissy, your shoes will break in and contour to your feet. come on people
Well then, I am a HUGE SISSY!!! :wink:
I lost track of how many pairs of different types of climbing shoes I've had over the years. Technical shoes may very well contour to your feet, but they DO NOT STRETCH MUCH In length unless they're a pair of MYTHOS. I climb for enjoyment. When my toes are constantly hurting, I'm NOT enjoying myself as much. I have also climbed my hardest stuff in comfortable shoes. I'll leave the painful shoes to the 5.13 climbers and the 5.13 wannabees! :)
-Jason :D
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overlord
Jun 30, 2005, 1:16 PM
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my anasazi laceups are really technical and dont really hurt. they are just tight and i can still stand on a dime without any problems.
to put it differenty... the correct shoes for your foot shouldnt realy hurt too much and still be very strong for climbing.
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bigjonnyc
Jun 30, 2005, 1:49 PM
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I've been climbing maybe a year or so now. About two months ago I bought a pair of La Sportiva Testarossas. They're size 30.5 (Men's 8 in US sizing), and I normally where a 9.5 or 10 in regular shoes. They hurt for about the first 2 weeks, but now they feel fine. And man, in those shoes I feel like I can stand on the edge of a dime.
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choueiri
Jun 30, 2005, 1:53 PM
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I think I would err on the side of technical since climbing shoes are going to hurt anyway, so might as well have it hurt for good cause. I have been using 5.10 Mojevo (sp??) and they were uncomfortable at first but I highly recommend them.
Has anyone tried the 5.10 Spire... what is the verdict?
Tony
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kimmyt
Jun 30, 2005, 2:57 PM
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I love my Spires! They were the first pair of shoes I bought and after trying on several other styles of lace-ups for longer trad and such, I will be purchasing another pair.
But honestly, go with what fits your foot. I found that the Spires fit my foot better even than any womens' shoe, and therefore I'll stick to them. Plus, the new colors (oh-so-trendy cornflower blue) are wayyyy cooler than that hideous purple that dyed my feet for weeks.
:)
K.
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marinaaxid25
Jun 30, 2005, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: I think I would err on the side of technical since climbing shoes are going to hurt anyway, so might as well have it hurt for good cause. I have been using 5.10 Mojevo (sp??) and they were uncomfortable at first but I highly recommend them. Has anyone tried the 5.10 Spire... what is the verdict? Tony
The 5.10 Spire is the kind I wear right now. They're pretty comfy now. They fit like a nice pair of ballet slippers.
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cjstudent
Jun 30, 2005, 3:06 PM
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I have both, a tight "technical" pair and a comfy pair.
Generally, I wear my tight shoes, even on long trad climbs. They are Evolv Kaos...i think i choose to wear these shoes mostly because they are in my opinion the best shoes that have graced my feet. Just take the tight shoes off at belays.
I do have a pair of comfy 5.10 Mojaves...they are ok. I wear them on slab and stuff 5.8 and under. I plan on getting some Evolv Bandit shoes sized to be comfy...i am guessing a combo of comfy bandits and tight kaos will be my dream come true.
(so that was my plug for...contact Evolv...they will even try and help you size your shoe for your needs)
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zerex
Jul 1, 2005, 2:24 AM
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Not to highjack thread but figured better than clogging it up with another. Anyone have flat feet and what shoe's do you find comfortable? I have only climbed a little bit and want to get into doing it regularly. The few pairs I tried cause me to have great pain in the arch area, is this normal? Was thinking it may be I don't have a natural arch and rock shoe's tend to have a very rigid arch. Any comments? How much should shoes hurt/not hurt. Thanks
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redpoint73
Jul 1, 2005, 2:32 AM
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There is no "better"when it comes to tight/powerful versus comfortable fit shoes. It all depends on your climbing style and personal preference. Unfortunately, your style and personal preference are hard to determine when you are starting out.
Go with what shoe feels best to you or fits your particular foot shape. So you might end up switching shoe types later down the road, so be it.
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renohandjams
Jul 5, 2005, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: Anyone have flat feet and what shoe's do you find comfortable? How much should shoes hurt/not hurt. Thanks
Arch pain is different for everyone, something that doesn't bother me, might be excruciating for you. Are your arches still falling? Or have they settled? Mine have settled to flat and now they don't hurt as much.
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shiggetyshiva
Jul 5, 2005, 4:35 PM
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If shoe width and toe box size are concerns, then you probably want to go with a lace up shoe over a velcro (or pull-on) slipper. That way you can keep the laces looser in the toes and tighter closer to your arches and ankle.
Especially on routes that you're going to be standing on sunny belay ledges, it's nice to have room for your feet to expand w/o having to worry about dropping your most valuable gear (your shoes) because they hurt too much and you had to take them off at the belay.
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boardline22
Jul 5, 2005, 6:35 PM
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comfort
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wendella
Jul 5, 2005, 11:06 PM
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I just got a pair of Scarpa Eclipses (a lace up) that really fits my foot well. My feet are wide but my toes are relatively short, and all of the other shoes I've tried on just don't match these proportions. If anyone else has a similar problem (wide feet, short toes) try the eclipse...
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austinclmbr
Jul 5, 2005, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: techincal shoes don't really hurt that much, unles your a sissy, your shoes will break in and contour to your feet. come on people
I am a big pussy then
I wear phenoix , buy them a half size too small and imediatly head for Lake Travis to water boulder. Mad rock makes a great rubber wet or dry and the water helps them to conform to feet,
I know most of my friends say the Anastasi's don't stretch at all
Have a few friends with methos and they say the leather is not as good wet (no big deal) but do stretch and conform a good deal when wet
P.S. No, sweat alone does not work in one day the way water climbing does
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cintune
Jul 5, 2005, 11:42 PM
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For what it's worth, I find that it helps to tie lace-ups off center, toward the outside, instead of right over the middle of the foot. The laces can be pulled tighter with less arch-crushing agony that way. But as everyone says, you just have to keep trying different brands and models until you find your own magic slipper.
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