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far_east_climber
Jun 30, 2005, 2:11 PM
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I just recently got done with a couple Grade V's in the valley and came across a question. On routes like those which often comprise of numerous fixed pieces of gear/heads, is it wise to be bounce testing the fixed pieces all the time? I have been told by some, just ease on slowly and shut up (which is what I was doing, unless it was an unavoidable sketchy piece). Others say to do some stiff bounce testing on the fixed pieces before you hop onto it. If these fixed pieces are constantly tested, eventually they are going to rip out right? I'm not sure what I'm getting at (yet again). But if some experienced climbers could tell me their opinions on testing fixed gear and their experiences it would be appreciated.
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areuinclimber
Jun 30, 2005, 3:03 PM
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after watching a very experienced climber launch off on the first pitch of tangerine trip this past week noticed that he bounce tested everything. there are many fixed heads on the first pitch. he did the Lost In America/Virginia start.
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atg200
Jun 30, 2005, 4:01 PM
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its all a judgement call. the biggest fall i ever took was when a fixed piece failed that i didn't bother to test. on the other hand, i never bother testing stuff that looks pretty obviously bomber.
i certainly bounce test fixed heads if i could get hurt if the head fails. better to blow one questionable head in a bounce test than rip a string of them after blowing a bad fixed head that wasn't tested. its all situational though.
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ricardol
Jun 30, 2005, 4:22 PM
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what atg said.
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crotch
Jun 30, 2005, 5:42 PM
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On easy aid, if I've got a good piece nearby, I won't bother to bounce fixed heads.
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karlbaba
Jul 1, 2005, 4:57 AM
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There is little point in bounce testing big fatty bolts. Otherwise, for pins, heads and any other fixed thing, you should always test before committing.
Now the fine print:
Don't waste tons of time puttering, testing, worrying. Just test and go.
The degree of testing is also a subject of judgment. When I started up Lost in America/Virginia, if I was testing a tiny head that I was going to be forced to use anyway, I just tested it for the amount of weight that I figured I'd have to subject it to by climbing on it. No more. If it was going to rip anyway, I didn't want to be on it when that happened, starting an ugly chain of events.
ON the other hand, I didn't want to overstress a piece that I needed, such that I'd have to dig out the hammer and replace it with something just a bad. (thus wasting time and money)
Peace
Karl
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lambone
Jul 1, 2005, 6:46 AM
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I don't bounce unless I am way run out or the fall is sketchy. I also don't clip sketchy looking fixed stuff hat would be hard to replace if I did fall, anagin unless I'd land on something or someone, then I bounce and clip everything.
I guess that is what everyone else said too...
If the piece holds up to many tests from mny parties, ussually it is the cable that ends up failing. I think...
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