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flamer
Jun 24, 2005, 10:58 PM
Post #51 of 107
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Climbed the hesse-ferguson on Halletts yesterday(RMNP) super fun and nobody else around!!
3 weeks ago I did the RR on Half dome...12 hours onroute....ended up bivying half way down the death slabs...my first ever forced bivy.
josh
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krga20
Jun 28, 2005, 1:14 PM
Post #52 of 107
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 71
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I clipped 52 bolts on Sunday...
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jt512
Jun 28, 2005, 6:00 PM
Post #53 of 107
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: I clipped 52 bolts on Sunday...
I clipped 79 bolts on Sunday.
I wonder why I never thought of this metric!
-Jay
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 6:05 PM
Post #54 of 107
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Hmm, I clipped 72 on Saturday. I took 6 15' whippers on to one of them, on a route called Spankterfied.
I got spanked pretty bad.
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pbjosh
Jun 28, 2005, 6:12 PM
Post #55 of 107
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Hehe interesting metric for sport wankers :) I clipped around 100 on Thursday but maybe only 30 each on Sat and Sun.
However I checked out Fisherman's buttress which has some excellent technical little routes on it. Trouser Trout, 12-, is really fun, extremely thin and delicate gently overhanging climbing...
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drector
Jun 28, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #56 of 107
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037
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I'm jealous of all of you full and part time climbers.
I got out at lunch yesterday for two+ climbs of the 5.9 arete on Trippy Rock in Incline Village. It's about... 30 feet... hmmm... maybe 25 feet.
I use a gear anchor to set up a rap' from the top of the rock to a couple of bolts above the route itself. It's not totally necessary but I like the practice of placing pro. I rap with a Gri gri on one strand of rope, tie both strands of the rope to the bolts (using the appropriate gear, etc...), rap down to the first ledge of the ground, pre-tie a backup in the second rope strand, and rap the rest of the 10 feet to the ground. Sounds like a huge climb so far huh?
So I climb this thing a few times using the Gri gri to self-belay. On my third try, the Gri gri won't feed and I'm starting to carry the pack on the end of the rope up the crux. The Gri gri feed okay when hanging free but not when the rope is running across my leg. The crux is akward and usually causes a barn-door problem. I bail since I've got an hour to do the whole thing including the hike.
So the rope is still attached to the bolts and then to the gear anchor on top. I figure what the heck, I use a cordalette to make a Prusik and ascend with that and the Gri gri to the bolts. More good practice. I untie it all (of course still on belay from the gear anchor) and then climb over the top. Get my gear, pack up, and hike back to the car.
I've taken about 1.3 hours to climb a 25 foot route almost three times. It's almost not worth it except I love to climb.
Oh, and I'm about to go try it again today. Maybe that death-mod for the Gri gri would help.
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tucsonclimberboy
Jun 28, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #57 of 107
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Registered: Feb 22, 2005
Posts: 6
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The White Whale and the Dog on Lumpy Ridge, in Estes Park. Fun 3 pitch 5.8s.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2005, 6:18 PM
Post #58 of 107
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In reply to: Oh, and I'm about to go try it again today. Maybe that death-mod for the Gri gri would help.
Or a skinnier rope? Not too skinny! :shock:
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learnin2climb
Jun 28, 2005, 6:52 PM
Post #59 of 107
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Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 54
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The northern most face of the Sawtooth Ridge up at Big Chief in Tahoe. Did all 4 climbs, .7, .9, .10a, .10b. Was being lowered off the .10b when a 4.8 maginute earthquake hit. I just heard the boom and didn't really feel the ground shake, atleast I didn't get knocked off the route.
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mgoodro
Jun 28, 2005, 7:13 PM
Post #60 of 107
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Registered: Aug 26, 2004
Posts: 119
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An unnamed roadside crack up chossy volcanic rock. We nearly dislodged a 7 foot slab testing a cam placement. Definitely a learning experience.
The crag we wanted to hit was unreachable due to high water.
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ihuang
Jun 29, 2005, 12:01 AM
Post #61 of 107
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 194
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I climbed the yellow-taped 5.12 at the gym.
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cjstudent
Jun 29, 2005, 12:38 AM
Post #62 of 107
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
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Just got back yesterday from my Yosemite road trip.
Highlights: The Nose up El Cap, S. Face of Washington Column, Snake Dike up Half Dome, E. Butress of Middle Cathedral then went over to the sierras for two days and did Crystal Crag (5.7) and attempted Mt Humphreys but the weather moved in so we bailed.
I cant wait to get back to the Sierras though!!!
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james_climber
Jun 29, 2005, 1:48 AM
Post #63 of 107
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 304
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it was an incredible line , 90 foot of overhang limestone ,full of tufas and stalactites , i dont know the name , it was 5.12d , location , El chonta , Mexico.
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shear
Jun 29, 2005, 1:02 PM
Post #64 of 107
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Registered: May 15, 2004
Posts: 350
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waimea - 10d...rumney
went this weekend, place was a ghost town, we had the place to ourselves. it was really odd. the first day at noon we were alone at the parking lot wall from 12 until 4-ish...then went to jimmy cliff and were alone again. got some serious leading mileage because of it. :D
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kenjo
Jun 29, 2005, 3:23 PM
Post #65 of 107
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Registered: Feb 5, 2004
Posts: 34
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Ate spiders at the Obed trying to do my circuit.
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bandycoot
Jun 29, 2005, 4:01 PM
Post #66 of 107
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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My buddy and I made T-Shirts for "Team V2" and sent The Vampire and Valhalla as a stellar, shade chasing link-up. I highly recommend it! We even had time to get lunch at a great Greek restaurant down in Idyllwild between sends. I'll try to post a trip report.
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krga20
Jul 1, 2005, 4:01 AM
Post #67 of 107
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 71
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Four more routes after work. Two 11's and two 12's. Off to boulder for the weekend!
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jt512
Jul 1, 2005, 3:08 PM
Post #68 of 107
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: My buddy and I made T-Shirts for "Team V2" and sent The Vampire and Valhalla as a stellar, shade chasing link-up. I highly recommend it! We even had time to get lunch at a great Greek restaurant down in Idyllwild between sends. I'll try to post a trip report.
Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage?
-Jay
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crotch
Jul 1, 2005, 4:37 PM
Post #69 of 107
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
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In reply to: Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage? -Jay
I thought it was Lost Arrow Spire that is seismically unstable and needs retrofitting.
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jt512
Jul 1, 2005, 7:59 PM
Post #70 of 107
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: In reply to: Wow, the Vampire is open again already? I heard it sustained substantial damage in the quake a couple weeks ago, and a voluntary closure was in effect until Louie could survey the damage and restore the route. That dude works fast! Could you see any of the damage? -Jay I thought it was Lost Arrow Spire that is seismically unstable and needs retrofitting.
Don't forget Headstone Rock. Seems to become unstable nearly every year in early spring.
-Jay
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whipperboy
Jul 1, 2005, 8:58 PM
Post #71 of 107
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Registered: May 22, 2005
Posts: 29
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Uuuuh, recent climbs....that would be More Funky than Gunky, Duck Soup, Stud Alert (Sinks Canyon) and a handful of others.....sunburned my head in the process....
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alpinerock
Jul 2, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #72 of 107
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Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
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Today i worked "I'll take black" in hell, yesterday i was up LCC and led satans corner, bushwack crack and a bunch of other fun little cracks, then on thursday i soloed "The Blight" in hell, gas boost and vapours apparation both at hard rock.
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cliffhanger3786
Jul 4, 2005, 2:29 AM
Post #73 of 107
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Registered: Apr 8, 2005
Posts: 18
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crowder's mountain...i set up a slackline gap over the gorge between middle finger and 2 pitch wall. it was freakin' sweet! i met up with some cool guys that just happened to live in the same building as i last semester at APP.
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verticalturtle
Jul 4, 2005, 3:53 AM
Post #74 of 107
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Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 53
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I did the aptly named "Almighty" at the Crag in the Sky in Logan.
Great rock, great views, great company, and a great pump!
vt
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gamehendge
Jul 4, 2005, 7:25 AM
Post #75 of 107
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
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Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.
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