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stevem


Jul 5, 2005, 9:26 AM
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This is my announcement. I am going to climb the Nose.

As a trainee Big Wall Theorist I've read just everything I can lay my hands on for the last two months. Sneaking past the free-climbing purists that rule Yorkshire (UK) on rainy evenings after work, I've seen dirty quarried rock where trad climbers fear to tread. I've jugged overhangs, slabs, corners and the mere vertical. Aid-bouldered on lichen and deserted rock in the middle of nowhere. Aid-soloed on slabs and "how hard is this" vertical. Realised just how little gear I own. Been discovered halfway up a wall re-reading printouts and books in a spider's web of slings and too many carabiners. Even heard myself giving a speech on aid technique to friends this weekend.

This is my announcement. I am going to climb the Nose.

Thanks for listening. The show starts on the 26th September, entry is free... :lol:

PS. PTPP is a god. I am not worthy.


Partner euroford


Jul 5, 2005, 9:39 AM
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good luck man, may the force be with you.


aznrockclimber82


Jul 5, 2005, 9:59 AM
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Take some nasal spray....that suckers been plugged up for years!


epic_ed


Jul 5, 2005, 10:07 AM
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Steve, we're long past hero-worship and knob-slobbing here. Just go do it and then feel free to come back and write up a trip report on the adventure. We like hearing about stuff like this -- success or failure -- and frankly, no one has made any sort of "announcement" of their plans as a means to commit to a route for a few years, now. The idea of doing so was a Pete concoction that a few of us bought into (including myself) as a means for committing to do said route. Most of us these days consider it a bit pretentious and contrived. Climb first, spray later. Good luck on the climb.

Ed


flipnfall


Jul 5, 2005, 10:09 AM
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If you post about it, I will read it. Good luck!

Jealously,

GT


flamer


Jul 5, 2005, 10:13 AM
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In reply to:
PS. PTPP is a god. I am not worthy.

PTPP is a wanker. If you ever meet him and you, yourself are not a wanker, then you will figure this out quickly.

His systems are somewhat useful, however they are not the only way to do things and not generally very efficient.

If you want to climb the nose then do more free climbing!!! The more you can free on that wall, ie the better free climbing shape you're in, the better.

Good luck and have fun.

josh


papounet


Jul 5, 2005, 2:08 PM
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Well, committing in public may be a bit passť, but I envy you.
I have some extra flier miles to burn, some free time (without a job) and a big envy to do some aid. I long to commit to go to Yosemite, and yet find myself plenty of silly excuse.
Would anyone be interested un a belay slave ??

seriously
may the force be with you.

I'll look forward reading your account


ricardol


Jul 5, 2005, 10:46 PM
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ahem .. ed -- didn't you announce your trip to the ditch this year, and your route of choice ..

.. you and i buddy are guilty of internet spray .. etc, etc, etc...

.. as for the nose -- good luck buddy ..


stevem


Jul 6, 2005, 2:22 AM
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Thanks everyone, didn't realise I was committing such a faux pas but it's worked to revitalise my own commitment after five days of bad weather in Chamonix.

I'll let you all know how it went after the event - back off to the damp practice crags of England for me...

Steve M


drunkenmonkey


Oct 7, 2005, 5:13 AM
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Steve,

as a fellow Brit who has walked the long path to the 'Ditch' I can only applaud your determination, there seems to be a dearth of aid climbers who are willing to talk in this country so the forum really helps. Good luck with your route, it's going to be a great ride.

take it easy

P


texplorer


Oct 11, 2005, 12:34 PM
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good luck, just make sure your not the 5 out of 6 that retreat off "The greatest climb in the world."


dingus


Oct 11, 2005, 12:39 PM
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In reply to:
good luck, just make sure your not the 5 out of 6 that retreat off "The greatest climb in the world."

Good luck??? The dude was supposed to have climbed it by now.

The faux pas isn't in stating the goal. The faux pas is coming back to splain why you didn't send!

Basically you have to change your user name and start over, lol.

DMT


stevem


Oct 17, 2005, 4:39 AM
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LOL!

Just got back from the valley, and we sent! Never a tougher 5 days in my life but it was worth it in every way :-)

Full TR and photos to come, now that I'm back in the foggy drizzle of Yorkshire.


Partner heiko


Oct 17, 2005, 4:52 AM
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In reply to:
The faux pas is coming back to splain why you didn't send!
Basically you have to change your user name and start over, lol.

In reply to:
Just got back from the valley, and we sent!

:twisted:


enjoimx


Oct 17, 2005, 7:41 AM
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congrats! :D


epic_ed


Oct 17, 2005, 7:57 AM
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Right on! Definitely post up a TR and photos when you get the chance. Spray rights have been earned.

Ed


overlord


Oct 17, 2005, 8:03 AM
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http://www.cncreneclips.com/...icons/brentdance.gif


rockkid55


Oct 17, 2005, 8:36 AM
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Can you top rope the nose? I heard there was a project going for it. And I also heard there's some route that can be bouldered; like, you just clip your crash pad onto your harness, and haul it up with you.


stevem


Oct 27, 2005, 9:33 AM
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Here's the trip report and photos. Enjoy :D

http://www.bad-altitude.co.uk/...2005/tripreport.html

Steve M


rockhound71


Oct 27, 2005, 9:44 AM
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Awesome! Thanks for the TR! That just gave me even more motivation and an itch to get into aid and onto big walls!!!


jabtocrag


Oct 27, 2005, 10:36 AM
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Congrats....great TR and no doubt, great send!! :)


stevem


Oct 28, 2005, 12:09 AM
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Thanks for the feedback, it's just the icing on the cake of a brilliant "holiday"

Steve M


jeldship


Oct 28, 2005, 11:07 AM
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Your info above about your success really shows how interesting it is to pick an objective, research it and try to do it. True, sometimes you have to wait a while before being able to accomplish an objective, but if it's where you want to aim, why not share it if you feel like it?
I wouldn't share any of my objectives because frankly everytime I plan on climbing something in the Mont Blanc Massif before a trip, I get over there and the plans change completely.. conditions...but whatever I do get to climb, it is always the best anyway.
So the fact that you aimed to do it and actually did it is pretty impressive to me and nice to read here. Thanks.


chronicle


Oct 28, 2005, 12:33 PM
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Great read. I can't wait until I'm ready for the big rock.


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