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hacksaw
Sep 10, 2004, 4:05 AM
Post #76 of 126
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Registered: Jun 21, 2004
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On Mount Evans outside of Denver, July 13 1997. There was a ice smear (8-15 feet wide) that was 4 pitches long (AI 3 55 degrees, one short 65 degree section), on one of the rock buttries above Summit lake. It was my partners first "formal" alpine ice climb. Since his first name is Scott, I called it "Beam me up Scotty." It was true blue ice (very rare in Colorado :shock: ). When we got to the top, we walked over to the summit of Mount Evans and hiched a ride back to Summit lake with a nice family form Iowa. 8^) It was an outstanding day....... 8^)
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grin-n-barrett
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Sep 10, 2004, 4:09 AM
Post #77 of 126
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Just got done doing a great little climb this evening called Beckeys Wall up Little Cottonwood Canyon here in Salt Lake City...not a tough climb but a classic...
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brodie
Sep 11, 2004, 2:32 PM
Post #78 of 126
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Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 3
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Manufractured (aka: I came, I sawed, I conqured) at the Bellafonte Quarry in PA. Fifty feet of hands and fingers cut into a blank wall with a masonary saw in a beautiful environment.
Just kidding :oops:
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dredsovrn
Sep 11, 2004, 4:27 PM
Post #79 of 126
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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Mental as Anything 5.10a is a personal favorite (sgl pitch sport).
Urban Daydreams 5.11b just seemed to fit my style (sgl pitch sport).
2 Pitch Variation of Sunday Morning (5.5) to Hollywood (5.7) to Mike's Roof (5.10a) will always be special as it is where I took my first fall on gear and is probably the best trad line near my house. (Trad)
2 Pitch Variaton of the Library (5.5) to For Madmen Only (5.7) to Do It In Your Sneakers (5.9). A great finish on this one. (Trad)
You have to get creative to come up with multi pitch on a 200' rock.
My favorite boulder problem to date is Door Knob V3 at Rocky Ridge. My first real high ball. Scared the crap out of me.
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areyoumydude
Sep 11, 2004, 11:49 PM
Post #80 of 126
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
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SE corner at Beacon Rock.
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noell
Sep 12, 2004, 12:06 AM
Post #81 of 126
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Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 313
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Okay, it's official now! My favorite trad climb is now Zoo View- led it today! Whoooo! If anyone's ever in the triad area and wants an awesome, stellar, airy, intimidating, but wow-are-those-holds-HUGE route, Zoo View is it.
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dee
Sep 13, 2004, 5:06 PM
Post #82 of 126
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 45
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The best climb I have done this year is Epinephrine, up in the Black Velvet Canyon, awesome.
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taino
Sep 13, 2004, 5:14 PM
Post #83 of 126
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Sport: Lumberjack - (equivalent 5.9), Smith Rocks, Wharepapa South, New Zealand. Solid, beautiful face climbing on small, fingery holds.
Trad: Madame Grunnenbaum's Wulst - 5.6 G***, The Trapps, Gunks. Every move on this sustained Gunks 5.6 is stellar, from bottom to top. The all-gear hanging belay is a must-do; shame on those people who skip it. Top it off with the Madame G's free-rappel.
T
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climber4life
Sep 13, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #84 of 126
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Registered: Jul 9, 2004
Posts: 156
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Down in the Wye valley, Wales was really beautiful.
First off it was a really sunny day, and we (group of about ten of us) walked for some miles through a forest, until we found the crag.
After about 4 hours of being here, it started to get dark. I climbed right up (and the crag was higher than the trees) turned around, and saw the orange sun, perfect brightness, shining down on the monastry.
Picture Perfect :D
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ben87
Sep 13, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #85 of 126
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
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last pitch of High exposure at the gunks is an old favorite.
Just had a chance to do a little climbing at otter cliffs in acadia. Rock lobster was a GREAT quality climb in a very beautiful place.
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tuelly
Sep 16, 2004, 5:57 AM
Post #86 of 126
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 20
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White Punks on Dope (5.8?) at the Needles in California has to rank right up there.
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tuelly
Sep 16, 2004, 5:58 AM
Post #87 of 126
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
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White Punks on Dope (5.8?) at the Needles in California has to rank right up there.
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paganmonkeyboy
Sep 16, 2004, 6:39 AM
Post #88 of 126
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
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potash road
schoolroom topropes with my car as an anchor
lazy 5.5 trad solo on a gri gri
first climb after shoulder surgery
and months of just waiting...
by far the best one for me all year :D
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crag
Sep 16, 2004, 11:48 AM
Post #89 of 126
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
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One for the Alpine Crowd - North Ridge Mt Baker WA AI 2-3 depending on point of attack on the crux & time of year. It was my very first Alpine Climb.
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chossmonkey
Sep 16, 2004, 1:38 PM
Post #90 of 126
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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In no order.
The Mentor in the VRG, AZ.
McCarthy West Face with the Hong Variation at Devils Tower, WY.
Tulgey Wood (you haven't climbed the route if you don't do the fist crack:) also at the Tower.
Whiskey-A-Go-Go Necedah, WI
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gambler
Sep 16, 2004, 2:24 PM
Post #91 of 126
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 85
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Long Trad : Astroman 11c , 12 pitch...Yosemite
Short Trad : Quarter of a Man 12a...Indian Creek
Long Sport : Lord of the Thais 7b , 5 pitch...Thailand
Sport : Ergometria 8a...Sella,Spain
Bouldering : Mushroom Roof V8...Hueco Tanks
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cfnubbler
Sep 16, 2004, 2:56 PM
Post #92 of 126
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
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Regular Route on the Rostrum- perfect cracks of all sizes, stellar position, aesthetic line.
Cordier Pillar, Grand Charmoz, Chamonix- Long (25+ pitches or so), gorgeous rock, tiny little summit, spectacular, one of the best 5.9 pitches on the planet at about P22- perfect straight in hands up an otherwise completely blank golden slab 2000ft above the glacier- it doesn't get any better.
Epinephrine- just plain fun with great position and exposure. The chimneys are good, but the endless moderate pitches above make the route for me.
The Promenade, Lake Willoughby, VT.- Wonderfully sustained steep ice with great position. The dinner plates fall three hundred feet without touching a thing from the last steep bit.
I'm getting hungry for ice.....
-Nubbler
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nthusiastj
Sep 16, 2004, 3:18 PM
Post #93 of 126
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
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The Yellow Spur .9 about 5 pitches in Eldo. Mixed sport and trad.
Reefer Madness 11a in Clear Creek Canyon. Sport.
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rocknroll
Sep 18, 2004, 7:32 AM
Post #94 of 126
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Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 111
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Bear Creek Spire is one of the most overated (quality-wise) in the Sierra. The first pich is good and they go downhill from there. The route avoids the towers (well, I guess you could summit them, but it doesn't go that way) and the final knife edge is the only thing that makes it worth it. The summit block however, is one of the best in the Sierra. The Northeast Arete of Bear Creek (an improbable 4th class - Norman Clyde 4th class)is a far better route and you still finish on the knife edge.
The N. Buttress of Mt. Dade across the canyon is way better...but the best in the Sierra? Top 5.
5. 3rd Recess Peak
4. West Ridge of Conness
3.Cathedral Peak (fairview? Boring Trade route)
2. Sun Ribbon Arete Temple Crag
1. S Face Clyde Minaret
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wormly81
Sep 18, 2004, 2:39 PM
Post #95 of 126
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Registered: May 9, 2004
Posts: 280
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I recently climbed the South Teton via an innovative line that climbs out of Garnet Canyon early via the snow coulior between the South and Cloudveil then traverses to the Northwest Coulior about halfway up from the Middle-South saddle. My best climb ever!
Jeff
PS... Strictly from Nowhere <5.7 gunks>, Lies and Propoganda <5.9 Rumney>, Public Enemy <5.10b Lake Louise>, American Route <5.10, The Dru>...
PPS.. I have definately not climbed the Dru! haha
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raymondjeffrey
Jul 5, 2005, 11:39 PM
Post #96 of 126
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 361
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I am proud and appreciative to say that I followed gambler on 'Airy Interlude' in the Needles (5.10a) in August of '04. What a great memory. It was the last road trip that I took with gambler. I just completed a FA in Red Rock with Larry DiAngelo and we think that it goes at 5.9. It is located on Magic Mountain in the Community Pillar area. We ticked this climb on July 02, 2005
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Jul 6, 2005, 12:22 AM
Post #97 of 126
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Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 288
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The Swift 5.7-5.8, 3 pitches. Lost Horse wall Joshua Tree.
best climb i have ever done by far. love the line. the crux move of the climb is getting up the last crack with hand jams after coming around a corner over 300 feet in the air. awesome climb.
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gunksgoer
Jul 6, 2005, 1:45 AM
Post #98 of 126
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
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Hmm... I have lots of favorites - all these and a dozen more.
Son of easy overhang at the gunks (5.8), both pitches are very good and very different. P1 is a thin face/seam to a comfy belay ledge. P2 follows jugs up an overhang that puts you way out over P1 - Sweet!
Annie Oh! at the gunks (5.8). P1 is nothing special, but pitch two has thoughtfull moves up BEAUTIFULL white rock with with lots of exposure. The stances are good with tricky climbing in between, and its hard to believe the route isnt two grades harder by the look of it.
Illusion Dweller at jtree (5.10c), a great route that follows a diagonalling handcrack up a face and out a small roof to a comfy ledge. The moves are great and will keep you ocupied. Some day ill lead this beast.
Rockaholic in keene valley (5.8), one of my better onsight leads. I didnt have the guide book with me and i was only leading 5.6 at the time, but i fired this beautifull fingercrack and was psyched after i found out which route it was.
Broken Glass, jtree (5.10b). The guidebook doesnt give this any stars, and it looks bad from far away, but man is it a sweet handcrack. Its a tad overhanging, and zigzags a couple times through beautifull jtree granite.
Fote Hog, (5.6) in josh, layback (5.5) and easy O (5.2) at the gunks are some of my favorite moderates. Good moves, comfy ledges, and lots of exposure, yummy.
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holly_wood
Jul 6, 2005, 1:45 AM
Post #99 of 126
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Registered: Jun 30, 2005
Posts: 3
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Levitation 29, Red Rocks. So sustained.
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tenesmus
Jul 6, 2005, 1:59 AM
Post #100 of 126
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
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In reply to: Levitation 29, Red Rocks. So sustained.
Epinephrine was fun.
Most anything at the Tennessee Wall
Kor route on Castleton is fun
S-Crack to S-Direct in lcc is cool
Crack of Doom is fantastic
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