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elepita


Jul 4, 2005, 1:53 AM
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``The Torreon´´ in Los Galayos (Central Spain). Los Galayos are granitic a mountain formation in central Spain. They are basically a bunch of beautiful granite spires left by the glaciers a looong time ago. They are 1,30/2 hours approach by foot but when you get there, it is so beautiful that you forget tha pain in your back due to all the heavy trad gear inside your pack. The torreon is a spire around 300 (I think) that stands out between all the other spires because of its perfect shape. My boyfriend Tim (who moved to Spain recently with me) and I, climbed it on a beautiful 10 degrees Celsius day (while down in the valley it was 35...). The summit of the Torreon is very small and exposed (sheer walls on each side...great rappel!), so when I made it on top I crawled on top of it. The top is totally visible from all the other spires, so I could here other climbers laughing at my way of summitting....the lizard way...hahaha! Here is a picture of us on the summit getting ready to rappel, taken by another climber on a close by spire.



Also last Saturday I redpointed my first 6b (10c/d) on a limestone crag close to home.....I was so scared on those little pockets and edges...but afterwards I felt sooo good!!! yeeah!
http://by103fd.bay103.hotmail.msn.com/...G&domain=hotmail.com


bandycoot


Jul 4, 2005, 2:21 AM
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Spook Book sunday morning, and the first two pitches of Don Juan Wall in the afternoon. We would have finished DJW but there was a fricken Conga Line up that first pitch for Thin Ice so we started late and had to rappel for daylight reasons. The Needles were fricken packed! There were easily 25 cars up there this weekend!


prezwoodz


Jul 4, 2005, 9:13 AM
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"We Sad" 6a or 6a+ at One-Two-Three wall, East Railay, Thailand


It was fitting since it was our last climb and we were sad to leave!


jt512


Jul 5, 2005, 12:18 PM
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In reply to:
Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.

And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm

-Jay


jt512


Jul 5, 2005, 12:36 PM
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Number of bolts clipped this weekend: Saturday 81, Sunday 65. Total for weekend: 146.

-Jay


jpdreamer


Jul 5, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Went climbing on Sat. Last climb was some unnamed variation of Loads of Fun (5.7) at the summit crags of Old Rag. Awesome weather, beautiful setting, and a chill experience oveall made for a nice day out. Plus, after taking the easy way up earlier in the day, I mustered up the balls to pull through the small overhanging section of the climb near the top, so felt great about that. I'd never done anything overhanging on a trad route before, so it took a little talking myself into it. So worth it though, the direct line is much purer, and a heck of a lot more fun.


Partner gamehendge


Jul 5, 2005, 12:46 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.

And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm

-Jay

Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol:

I'll make sure and mention something to Jack.


ikefromla


Jul 5, 2005, 12:55 PM
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must have clipped close to 40 bolts yesterday. too bad the hardest send was 12c and the 14a was a beta burn (more like a "wow this felt a LOT easier last season" burn.) :roll:
pelt me with rotten vegetables and fruits as you please.


tripperjm


Jul 5, 2005, 1:22 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.

And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm

-Jay

Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol:

I'll make sure and mention something to Jack.

Nice post Jay.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!1

Invisible King was rated 12a when it first went up before the infamous "Howie hold" was discovered. It was already in the guide at 12a. After the hold was discovered, most locals including Troy and I, agreed the route was easier. When the new guide was being finished, Troy and I discussed the ratings on several routes including this one. Invisible King is rated 11d and it is.

It is better to train on solid grades and crank other peoples over rated routes, than to have them visit and walk your soft grades.

I also stand on a previous posting of mine on soft rating of routes.

In reply to:
Up rating long standing estabished local test pieces, that get confirmed regularly by guy's that are for real and have been for decades is BS.

Am I the only one that thinks "sport climbing" has been dumbed down enough? Can't we at least have solid grades?

I will STAND UP AND FIGHT grade creep in my local areas especially when it involves area CLASSICS that are my routes!!!

It's a shame the "tradition" of sticking up for your local crag and caring how it stands up to other crags has been LOST! It seems like I'm the only one locally that cares though!


cruxmonger


Jul 5, 2005, 1:32 PM
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I climbed Big Rocks Remembered yesterday at Barn Bluff in Red Wing, MN. It was my first 5.11d. I also climbed Jump Start (.10a), New Kids on the Rock (.10d), Urban Chunks (.11a), Left Lane (.10a) and Roof Burner (.11a). It was a very fun day, overall, besides the mosquitoes.


jt512


Jul 5, 2005, 1:33 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Invisible Kings. Williamson. It wasn't pretty. That 2nd crux @ the top is tough.

And now you only get 11d credit for it too. Rip off. Send complaints here: tripperjm

-Jay

Thanks Jay. The way I climbed it, I'll say I should only get credit for an .11a. :lol: :lol:

I'll make sure and mention something to Jack.

Nice post Jay.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!1

Invisible King was rated 12a when it first went up before the infamous "Howie hold" was discovered. It was already in the guide at 12a. After the hold was discovered, most locals including Troy and I, agreed the route was easier. When the new guide was being finished, Troy and I discussed the ratings on several routes including this one. Invisible King is rated 11d and it is.

OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d.

-Jay


overit


Jul 5, 2005, 1:55 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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You guys said it was 11c when I redpointed it!


tripperjm


Jul 5, 2005, 2:25 PM
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In reply to:
OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d.

-Jay

I think you got it now, and they say you can't teach an old dog new tricks. HAHA!

.....and yes, when the "Howie Hold" breaks the route will still be rated 11d.

There nothing wrong with a couple of local sandbag.

In reply to:
You guys said it was 11c when I redpointed it!

HAHA!!!1

I do remember telling you it was 11c. When you sent it, the Howie hold was in effect and you made it look 11c, but then you always could dance!


pud


Jul 5, 2005, 3:21 PM
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a pumpy traversing todd gordon sportclimb near "big moe" at j-tree. 5.10 a/b
a shady place on a hot day. nice. :D


raymondjeffrey


Jul 5, 2005, 4:13 PM
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Completed a 7 or 8 pitch climb with Larry DiAngelo and John (vegastradguy) on July 2. It was a FA for us and my first FA. Can't remember if it was 7 or 8 pitches cuz you can probably combine yadyada. It is on Magic Mountain in Red Rock and it is near "Community Pillar". We thought that the route was an honest and proud 5.9. Get on this route folks because it is fun!! You will be able to get route info soon on 'climbingredrocks' route data base.

Cheers


cam


Jul 5, 2005, 4:27 PM
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The last route I did was a F.A. trad line in an otherwise sport oriented crag. It was a beautiful huge flake that my partner and I had to combing racks to protect (BIG gear). The last 10 feet or so was a dirty loose mess of rocks and dirt but the first 40 feet or so was awesome. I'm gushing because it was my first FA ever. I'm pretty stoked. So fun, not knowing anything about the climbing or what gear it will take.

On a side note, I did have to take some loose cap down in the interest of my safety and especially my seconds safety as the rope would surely have knocked down dirt and stones on my second head. I'm wondering though, should I go back and remove ALL the loose stuff or leave it as is is now? I believe cleaning it well would deffinately make it more enjoyable but I just don't know how MUCH cleaning is neccesary or appropriate.

cam.


cam


Jul 5, 2005, 4:29 PM
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oops, double post.


rocknroll


Jul 5, 2005, 10:00 PM
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Crystal's Gift , 5.6, (First Ascent) The Rock Pile, Alabama Hills, CA. The 10 year old neighbor girl, Crystal, wanted to go climbing. Her first route, The Ladies Route in Mike's Backyard, was an absolute terror as she screamed at the top of her lungs. We approached the Wall, being "Super Stealth Masters" avoiding the blistering heat and sneaking into the shade. When we got there I let her chose the route. Two lines looked easiest: a low angle slab with loose plates or a steeper dike to it's right, I knew she would have trouble with the dike, but I just couldn't see bolting up that slab. Then I saw a beautiful plated crack of hard stone above the ledge with the dike,and we could appraoch it with a scramble. Nope, Crystal was set on the slab. I figured I'd run it out, but with a minimum amount of bolts and be done with it. Ready to run it to a horizontal crack 20 feet up I hesitated on some friction moves. "Put in a bolt" yelled Crystal. By the time I reached the top the sun was stetting and Crystal was tired of belaying. "Forget the bolts, run it out". I threw in the anchor and set up a single line rap with the reverso. All Crystal had to do was release the rope from a gri-gri. Well the locking beaner was beyind her, she grew frustrated and stomped off and pouted behind a rock, leaving me hanging.

It was almost completely dark by the time I coaxed her back ("Hey Crystal! I can see your house from here!"). As we walked back, I let her know that the Super Stealth Master never gets emotional when they have problems withe the equipment. Just The opposite. The Super Stealth Master is keenly aware at such times.

We hopped the barb wire of her property making animal sounds. She does a perigrine falcoln quite well.


theangryenchilada


Jul 6, 2005, 9:16 PM
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In reply to:

OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d.

-Jay

Yeah, that really sucks. I guess you will have to change your name to jt511d.


dfoerstel


Jul 6, 2005, 9:43 PM
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South Face of Charlotte Dome. 11 Pitches of pure fun.

Dave


carl12


Jul 6, 2005, 9:59 PM
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I just climbed my first couple 10a's in the gym, both without a fall. My friend remarked that I had gotten better since climbing earlier this spring. And I think he's right. I've been to worried about numbers that I hadn't even attempted anything past 5.9. But I found myself moving smoothly up routes that I would have flailed on a cosuple months ago.
I still consider myself new to climbing, but I'm hooked. Off to the crag tommorow.
Carl


jt512


Jul 7, 2005, 7:56 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

OK, now I get it: If a route becomes harder, it doesn't change the grade; if it becomes easier, it does. Previously, I only understood part of the rule. Interestingly, the rule implies that when the Howie Hold breaks (I've heard it's loose), the route will remain 11d.

-Jay

Yeah, that really sucks. I guess you will have to change your name to jt511d.

That does suck!

-Jay


agrauch


Jul 7, 2005, 8:43 AM
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North Face (60 degrees, 5.5ish), of Ranrapalca (6162 meters), Cordillera Blanca. Not a terribly hard route but the descent was epic.

The sport climbing after work yesterday just doesn't count.


justsaynototake


Jul 7, 2005, 8:55 AM
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This past week I climbed a 5.7 sport climb on top rope at WallCrawler Rock Club in Atlanta, GA. It was an epic adventure. I started off traveling down 75/85 south, and I had like 5 cars cut in front of me. I accelerated my car to maximum speed and navigated the backroads of little 5 points until I reached my final destination. THE GYM!!!! As I placed my harness on and fit my feet snuggly into my shoes, I said to myself, "today is going to be the day. Today is going to be the day that I conquer this climb." I tied in to the 10.5mm rope who's sheath was partially fraid. Was it from all of the falls on this climb or was it from so much use? I didn't know. I called off to my belayer that I was climbing and he said....."wait, I need to lock my beener." So I did. It felt like I was waiting for an hour, maybe a day, who knows how long I was standing in the luke warm gym, waiting for my destiny. Finally he was ready. He screamed, "ON BELAY!!!" and then off I went. The first few moves were nice and juggy, but then....bum, bum, BUM!!!!!....came the crux!!! I had to match my hands so that I could use my right hand. It was totally unexpected. Suddenly, my foot slips off the shelf hold that was only 5" long and 4" away from the wall. So there I was hanging by two hands with only ONE FOOT ON THE WALL!! I was so scared but I knew that if I let fear take a hold of me I would never be able to fulfill my destiny. So I said, "suck it up you pansy and get that foot back on the wall!!" I did. I pulled some hard juggy moves up to the top of the 25 foot wall. My arms burned. Not so much because of the climbing but because I had a shot earlier on in both arms and the medicine was just kicking in. I told my belayer to hold me there for a few minutes while I take in the gloriousness of my triumph. I looked around at my peers as they cheered me on. It was a good thing that I brought my camera because I took a picture of myself which I later found out did not come out due to some poor lighting and a low battery. As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life"


saxfiend


Jul 8, 2005, 11:06 AM
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In reply to:
As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life"
What a great climbing epic, Eric! I'm glad I'm able to rate posts today. I was going to tell about my latest climb (BellSouth Tower, 16 flights of stairs, very runout), but after your story, I'm speechless.

JL

PS -- You know, that WallCrawler route is a sandbagged 5.7. Zach says it should really be more like a 5.8a.

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