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Anchor Analysis: THE ANCHOR
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Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 11:22 AM
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Any of you super experienced tradsters care to weigh in. We need all the help we can get. For some reason, it just felt like something was missing from this anchor.

Any suggestions?


shakylegs


Jul 7, 2005, 11:33 AM
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Well, if you insist....
One word, son: cordalettes.


justhavefun


Jul 7, 2005, 11:36 AM
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On closer inspection I should have equalized the opposed nuts with the tipped-out #6. And possibly shore up the boulder with a cookie propped against the side.


caughtinside


Jul 7, 2005, 11:38 AM
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I've got a problem with your anchor, I couldn't find Sheila's phone number written anywhere on it.


dirty_she


Jul 7, 2005, 11:42 AM
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867-5309....no, wait, that's Jenny's
:)


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 11:46 AM
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Everybody loves the Slab Queen! *clap clap*


jumpingrock


Jul 7, 2005, 11:48 AM
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How long did it take to build that... monstrosity and how far above the ground are you?


justhavefun


Jul 7, 2005, 11:50 AM
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Couple hours. And it was pitch 2 so it would be... about four feet off the ground.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 11:52 AM
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In reply to:
Couple hours. And it was pitch 2 so it would be... about four feet off the ground.

Naw, the high pieces are at least six or seven feet up. Remember, Sean had to aid up to place them?


chanceboarder


Jul 7, 2005, 11:52 AM
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Couple hours. And it was pitch 2 so it would be... about four feet off the ground.
i hope you're all clipped into the anchor. there's some serious ground fall potential there :wink:


sinshan


Jul 7, 2005, 12:25 PM
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Is the gate on the biner that's holding the cooler partially open?

If so, that's a huge hazard, and a common rookie mistake. This is where cordalettes come in handy - - just wrap one around the handle at both ends, tape the cordelletes down with duct tape, then clip the end loops to a biner, and there you are!

That way, the gate stays closed, cooler = easy open, and you don't have to worry about dropping the cooler on the heads of the chipmunks and squirrels 4 feet down that are munching on your ham sandwich crumbs.

*** this message brought to you by People for Ethical Treatment of Animals and, um, Coolers. ********


halcyon


Jul 7, 2005, 12:38 PM
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This might just be me... but isn't this a bit much? :wink:

What I would like to see is you doubling up all the slings. Come on! Where's redundancy?


vawwyakr


Jul 7, 2005, 1:28 PM
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I dunno I would have probably sunk a few more cams and hexes....I mean this thing is 4 feet off the ground right? I wouldn't want 20 or 30 cams blowing and then having to fall all the way to the ground.


craqho


Jul 7, 2005, 1:55 PM
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Just a couple of suggestions;
Maybe you should crop the ground out of the 1st pic.
And definitely locking biners on the Nalgenes!!!!
And I think there is something wrong with the space/time continuum in Tuolumne because the orange alien is all jacked in the 1st pic.


craqho


Jul 7, 2005, 1:57 PM
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Just a couple of suggestions;
Maybe you should crop the ground out of the 1st pic :wink: ...
And definitely locking biners on the Nalgenes!!!!
And I think there is something wrong with the space/time continuum in Tuolumne, because the orange alien is all jacked in the 1st pic.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 2:03 PM
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I knew those stitching programs caused problems with the space-time continuum! Should have known...


slablizard


Jul 7, 2005, 2:57 PM
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Comments? She's hot :P

LOL


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 3:07 PM
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In reply to:
Comments? She's hot :P

LOL

Who? Elaine or Sheila? I say they are both smokin' hot! :wink:


slablizard


Jul 7, 2005, 3:25 PM
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I agree.

They're both smoking hot...How can I focus on all that "gear" with all that other "gear" around? LOL..

So you're up there with Elaine and Sheila...and you play with cams? Chriiiiiis!!!!! What's wrong with you? :D




In reply to:
In reply to:
Comments? She's hot :P

LOL

Who? Elaine or Sheila? I say they are both smokin' hot! :wink:


corpse


Jul 7, 2005, 3:40 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
[sarcasm] I don't know, I may be just a beginner, but it looks like one of the 'biners in the bottom photo is being loaded over an edge. Therefore I believe the whole anchor is suspect...[/sarcasm] :lol:

If you have to delineate your sarcasm... it isn't sarcasm.

DMT

My bad I was trying to be funny...

Can I get a STFU nOOb?

STFU n00b!!!!!11111


reno


Jul 7, 2005, 3:42 PM
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You ought to send those pics to John Long... "When Climbing Anchors Attack!" could be a working title.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 3:45 PM
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Paolo, in my defense, I do have them securely attached to a bombproof anchor that can clearly withstand any activities which might involve myself and said smokin' hotties. Life is was most certainly good in Tuolumne that day. 8^)


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 3:48 PM
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In reply to:
You ought to send those pics to John Long... "When Climbing Anchors Attack!" could be a working title.

Good idea Reno!! I think I will PM largo... :wink:


jeep4evr


Jul 7, 2005, 3:56 PM
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That anchor setup looks freakishly evil. One of two things will happen:

1. You'll fall on it, and those 50 anchor placements will absorb so much you'll actually defy gravity.
2. You'll fall on it, and those 70 anchor placements will put 70 pressure points on the rock at once, snapping the mountain in half and falling 50,000 ft to your doom till you're lodged 30,000 below sea level with 30 million tons of pressure swirling around you and you wishing you had gone with a 2 bolt sport anchor instead.


dingus


Jul 7, 2005, 4:01 PM
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In reply to:
That anchor setup looks freakishly evil. One of two things will happen:

1. You'll fall on it, and those 50 anchor placements will absorb so much you'll actually defy gravity.
2. You'll fall on it, and those 70 anchor placements will put 70 pressure points on the rock at once, snapping the mountain in half and falling 50,000 ft to your doom till you're lodged 30,000 below sea level with 30 million tons of pressure swirling around you and you wishing you had gone with a 2 bolt sport anchor instead.

FINALLY, the CORRECT analysis.

Thanks
DMT

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