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Any glaring ommissions from a trad rookies rack
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realdeal39


Jul 9, 2005, 3:27 PM
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Any glaring ommissions from a trad rookies rack
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I've been bouldering and climbing sport for about 4 1/2 years now but I've only recently started to move into trad. I began leading single pitch trad in yosemite last summer but now I'm moving onto multi pitch and have begun to put together a rack. So far I have 2 sets of BD stoppers, cams 1 through 3.5 including 2 two's, the red, green and blue alien, orange metolius tcu, a trango that is about the equalivant of a 1 cam, and a set of HB's offsets. My questions is what other gear do you think I need before I can tackle a 3 or 4 pitch 5.7. My next paycheck I was probably going to pick up 2 or 3 tricams. I already have all the slings, runners and crabs I'll need. Thanks


caughtinside


Jul 9, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Re: Any glaring ommissions from a trad rookies rack [In reply to]
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I'm not sure what size your red TCU is, but I'd go for: yellow, red, orange aliens.

I had doubles in the red + orange sizes for a long time, and I finally got a second yellow.


Partner euroford


Jul 9, 2005, 11:02 PM
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Re: Any glaring ommissions from a trad rookies rack [In reply to]
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get a .75 camalot. i just really love that thing.


reno


Jul 9, 2005, 11:58 PM
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Re: Any glaring ommissions from a trad rookies rack [In reply to]
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You need a pink tricam.

Or two.


landgolier


Jul 10, 2005, 7:08 AM
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I'm too lazy to look up the actual ranges since I don't know TCU sizes, but I'm assuming that TCU fills the yellow alien gap. I think everybody should start with a rack like this, complete but with a few different brands on board to try stuff out. Tricams don't always get much love on the west coast, but I think you're on the right track there. If you've used them a lot in the past you probably know this, but until you get used to them you will probably grab one size too big a lot, so maybe get only the bottom 2 and then if you really come to a lot of placements where the red is too small, get a 1.5. Again, tho, if you have used them a lot and know you like them, go for more.

Otherwise, I would second the suggestion for a .75 BD or something else that size. There is a pretty big hole between red alien and red camalot. About that range is the standout size for the pre-splitter trango/rock empire durango cams (same thing, both easy to find for $30) if you like the trango you have and want to save some $$. .75 BD's aren't hard to find used, and the old style ones aren't that much heavier in the small sizes (24 grams in this case).


realdeal39


Jul 10, 2005, 8:54 AM
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Thank you everybody for your input. A couple small tri-cams and the.75 are definetely at the top of my list. What about hexes? I'd eventually like to get a set, but I've heard enough mixed things about them that makes me think I'd just be better off getting a couple cams for now.
Also, does everyone think that 5.7 is a good starting point for entry level multi pitch trad? I sport climb 10c and I have lead single pitch 5.8 trad but I was thinking that 5.7 is well within my ability as far as the climbing goes and would be easy enough for me to concentrate on building anchors and so forth instead of constantly worrying about falling. Thanks


Partner euroford


Jul 10, 2005, 8:57 AM
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considering your in estes park, 5.7 is probobly the perfect grade. go give white whale and chrome plated semi..... a climb. fun routes, easy to protect, easy cruiser 5.7 cracks.


bandycoot


Jul 10, 2005, 10:45 AM
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What could I tell you that could help? You're already the "realdeal." :lol:


weschrist


Jul 10, 2005, 12:22 PM
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Jesus, do you plan on leaving all the gear fixed on all 3 pitches? Two sets of nuts, a set of cams, a bunch of biners, and some slings should get you up all the standard stuff. Of course you will need more for special climbs... like maybe a second set of cams...


dgkula


Jul 10, 2005, 12:26 PM
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Hexes are great for building anchors and saving cams for the leader.

Also if you have to bail, hexes are cheaper than cams to leave behind.

Plus they are cheap.


shaggyj


Jul 10, 2005, 2:22 PM
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A reverso & Cordelette.

Agreed, if you are in EP you'll probally tackle MCPES, White Whale, or hitaus as your first 7. Lumpy is tricky at first.... beware.


landgolier


Jul 10, 2005, 6:45 PM
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Hexes are indeed a worthwhile investment for saving pieces for the leader and cheap bailers, but if you hang out in climberland (or ebay) long enough someone will sell you 6 BD hexes on cord for $25, so I wouldn't prioritize them unless none of your partners have any gear at all.

just $.02 cause I'm bored...


comet


Jul 10, 2005, 7:30 PM
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never have i ever felt like i've needed doubles of anything leading multipitch 5.7. i've climbed much harder on TR, but .7s are close to the limit of what i'm comfortable leading, so it's not as if i don't take it seriously. i'm not one to run it out. that's right, i'm a big pussy, and i STILL don't take doubles.

and i second the reverso. really nice for multipitch. i'm not a fan of hexes, but tricams are good to have, versatile, and still cheap to bail on.


goober


Jul 10, 2005, 7:45 PM
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Short of splitter cracks, you don't need all that gear to lead 5.7, especially the double set of cams. The rock at that grade generally has enough different features to allow for an array of protection options, not to mention enough stances to take your time to be creative. Of course there are exceptions... Tricams are a great catch all, and will usually fit where nothing else will. Also, keep an eye out for natural features such as chockstones, tunnels, chikenheads, etc.


seek7


Jul 10, 2005, 8:25 PM
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I recommend finding some routes that you could probably free solo and lead those. Put more gear than you really need in the beginning. Have an experienced trad leader, who is also a good teacher, follow you and criticize your placements and over all system. You may have to pay a guide to do this... which is much cheaper than insurance deductibles. A good critique would be worth more than another piece of gear at this point.
That said, I would wait on doubling up on tricams. Buy 2 or 3 of the smaller ones (pink, red, brown) and see if use them enough to warrant carrying doubles...its mostly a personal style thing. Placing a hex where you can stand and fiddle saves a cam for when you have to protect and move quickly. Metolious hexes are highly recommend, BDs are OK too. I've only climbed with BDs and I think their OK. Make sure you have lockers to use on draws and some nylon draws. Ask someone to explain why. Also ask about the specific dangers of climbing easier climbs.


dbarandiaran


Jul 17, 2005, 5:32 PM
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go for the hexes... they are choice! carry those instead of doubles in cams, it lightens the load. not too many ppl endorse this form of protection, but i most certainly do, they are very useful


whatsupdoc


Jul 17, 2005, 6:05 PM
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You don't have a cam in the yellow alien/yellow TCU size (the red alien and orange TCU overlap) and it also looks like you're missing the 0.75 camalot/orange alien/red TCU size. I would pick up a cam in both of these sizes to fill the holes. That's about all. The rack looks pretty complete otherwise.


kinosoo


Jul 17, 2005, 8:24 PM
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i like to have two set of nuts but in dfferent brands different shapes fit different cracks


renohandjams


Jul 18, 2005, 9:37 AM
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In reply to:
What about hexes? I'd eventually like to get a set, but I've heard enough mixed things about them that makes me think I'd just be better off getting a couple cams for now.
If you do go with hexes you have to get the WC Rockcentrics with the dynemma. They were the only hex that got an A from July Climbing's review and the editors choice awared. I'm getting a set for myself so I will let you know what I think about them.


shiggetyshiva


Jul 18, 2005, 9:58 AM
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Since you already have plenty of stoppers, maybe just buy hexes in sizes that compliment your stoppers (i.e., above the BD #12 or 13 stopper size, start filling in with hexes).

Definitely pink and red tricams, esp. for little tiny pockets and horizontals.

Sounds like you should have enough gear to do some easier multipitch already, esp. if you team up with someone who also has some cams, etc. that you can share.

Have fun & be safe!


hammerhead


Jul 18, 2005, 10:08 AM
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A helmet.


match


Jul 18, 2005, 10:31 AM
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ham sandwiches maybe?


Partner cracklover


Jul 18, 2005, 11:23 AM
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In reply to:
Short of splitter cracks, you don't need all that gear to lead 5.7, especially the double set of cams. The rock at that grade generally has enough different features to allow for an array of protection options, not to mention enough stances to take your time to be creative. Of course there are exceptions... Tricams are a great catch all, and will usually fit where nothing else will. Also, keep an eye out for natural features such as chockstones, tunnels, chikenheads, etc.

What he said. The only exception is that for long pitches (130 - 200 feet) you might want a couple doubles in mid-size cam range or some medium to large hexes. But to be honest, you'll mostly just want a lot more runners and biners, not more cams.

GO


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 18, 2005, 11:27 AM
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Copious amounts of beer and ham sandwiches.


Partner one900johnnyk


Jul 18, 2005, 12:32 PM
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In reply to:
I've been bouldering and climbing sport for about 4 1/2 years now but I've only recently started to move into trad. I began leading single pitch trad in yosemite last summer but now I'm moving onto multi pitch and have begun to put together a rack. So far I have 2 sets of BD stoppers, cams 1 through 3.5 including 2 two's, the red, green and blue alien, orange metolius tcu, a trango that is about the equalivant of a 1 cam, and a set of HB's offsets. My questions is what other gear do you think I need before I can tackle a 3 or 4 pitch 5.7. My next paycheck I was probably going to pick up 2 or 3 tricams. I already have all the slings, runners and crabs I'll need. Thanks
you're missing a size cam on the order of a orange alien/red tcu to bridge the gap up to your #1 camalots.

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