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Is it safe to solo aid climb?
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krustykutie


Jul 16, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Is it safe to solo aid climb?
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Hi I'm Krusty's girlfriend, and I have a question for all of you, except for Passthepitonspete (I already think you are crazy ).

Is it safe to solo aid climb;

A. Without a cell phone, or a ground man and a radio, at all times?

B. Or on a day when there are no other climbers at the crags?

C. What about A and B together?

Thanks,

Shelly

P.S. Jeff isn't climbing today, he's mad at me and went for a bike ride to blow off steam. I hope he isn't even more mad when he sees my question.


wildtrail


Jul 16, 2002, 5:52 PM
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I've done both. Is it safe? Safe is a relative term in regards to climbing in general anyway.

I always carry my cell phone with me whenever I participate in any solo activity.

Just a good idea. As long as you are in an area in which you can get service.

Steve


beyond_gravity


Jul 16, 2002, 6:04 PM
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Awww, krustykutie

How come my girlfriend doesnt come here and go on as beyond_cutie???

I dont really know much about roped soloing, but in my mind Jeff is a really smart climber and has good judgement that would keep him out of trouble when on the wall. I can sort of relate because I have parents and can't drive either


wallhammer


Jul 16, 2002, 6:17 PM
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whenever i climb solo, i give the guidebook to my wife so she knows where and what routes i will be on. i also give her a check in time and NEVER fail to call in by that time, even if i have to bail in the middle of a route and hump full speed to cell phone reception. i figure it is the least i can do for her as a courtesy as she NEVER complains about my time away from family to climb.


apollodorus


Jul 16, 2002, 6:19 PM
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PTPP is NOT crazy. And of all people, I should know. Takes one to know one. That sort of thing.

Solo climbing is definitely more dangerous. If you go out where there are no other climbers to hear you if you get into trouble, or don't take a radio or cel phone, you are increasing the risk greatly. A simple, reasonably harmless accident with a partner can become very serious when you are all alone.

Jack London wrote a short story called, "To Build A Fire", about a guy who just wanted to take a walk in Alaska, alone. The seasoned locals warned this guy that you shouldn't travel alone in the back country, but he did it anyway. You'll have to read the story to find out how it ends. Or you can guess.

People solo El Capitan all the time these days, but they have an extremely good way to get out of trouble: the Big Stone is crawling with people at all times. And the Lemoore Naval Air Station has some pretty good chopper pilots who can show up within an hour's notice.

At the very least, you should tell someone you're going out, so they will know to get help if you don't show up.

That said, the technical aspects of solo aid climbing vs. having a partner are minimal. I soloed pitches on the Excalibur while PTPP did other things. It was just as easy to aid the pitches, as have a belay. BUT, I had a partner who could assist me if I needed it.


passthepitonspete


Jul 16, 2002, 6:25 PM
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Lawsy Lawsy Lawsy! What is this place coming to?!

Shelly, it is probably a really good thing for Jeff to climb with his cell phone. It is cheap insurance. Besides, 911 is a toll-free call, even for out-of-state users!
Fortunately, Jeff has MY phone number, so if he can't refer to my notes that he told me he has printed off and has kept in a three-ring binder, then he could at least phone me for instructions!

Note: I have done a few "shouted big wall tutorials" to climbers on neighbouring routes, but I have yet to do a Phone-In Show. Perhaps I could get my own radio program?

Hmm, Shelly, you claim to be a "kutie".

Dr. Piton believes this to be a Very Good Thing. He applauds women with the Right Attitude, in the same way as he applauds aid climbers with the Right Attitude, of which Krusty is one.

You may well be a "kutie." In fact, you may even be bitchin'. If Jeff is very lucky, you could even be a shagadelic Hottie.

However, without any photographic verification of your "kuteness", Dr. Piton is left to speculate. Perhaps it would be a Good Idea to post your picture on your profile?

This is, in Dr. Piton parlance, a [hint].


climbsomething


Jul 16, 2002, 6:43 PM
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Pete, you cad!

When I saw this subject on the front page, I thought... uh oh... here come the tips, the sly PTPP snippets of wit n wisdom (or... whatever), the eh's, the bold tags... !!

anyway. yes, do always carry a cell phone, how could it hurt?? if the reception sucks/does not exist where you're climbing, radios would be good. always be safe! we gotta look out for one another


krustyklimber


Jul 16, 2002, 7:47 PM
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OH YEAH THANKS FRIENDS!!!

You have all just put the nails in my coffin!!!

I don't have a cell phone, and now you have all proven her right!

But rightly so, and I thank you all for it... I am not so stupid I cannot see the truth... and I can count on all of you to tell it, that's obvious!

So this will temporarily postpone my little big solo but only for a few days, then I will have a fulltime ground man and radios, and it will be the weekend so all the dudes I will stand in line with will be there too.

I hate all of you!!!
Thanks again, it's good to have friends who are lookin' out for me!

Steve,
Thanks for obnubilating things!
(look it up)

Jeremy,
I'm glad you like her name, she "didn't want to be krusty".
And beyond_cutie is very cool, good luck on your search. I hope you hit the jackpot like I did!

Len,
My ol' lady having an example of "someone who knows how to follow the rules" won't help me ever again!

Tom,
Your reference to Jack London's story didn't receive a warm welcome, at least not the outcome.

And Pete,
First what the heck kinda word is Lawsy?
And I think the place has brightened up considerably, with the addition of my girl, just like it does eveywhere I go with her!
Second you notice I have no photos on my profile... When I figure out how to post pics I will get one of her on here, just for revenge for this little stunt if nothing else...
Lessee now.. shuffle.. shuffle... (through old boxes of photos) where is that really ugly pic of her sleeping in the tent?
Do you fish with Dynamite too? I think we got the hint!

Hillary,
She says "A radio is no good without someone to talk to."

She and all of you are right!

Jeff


natec


Jul 16, 2002, 8:00 PM
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Krusty,
When and where were you planning on doing this solo? I'd be happy to be your radio man if it was here.


beyond_gravity


Jul 16, 2002, 8:06 PM
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Take Me, I've got my Ham radio licence...but the radio I own isn't really portable...

Well, I guess you could bring a generator with you


krustyklimber


Jul 16, 2002, 8:15 PM
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Nate,

I was supposed to start at 5:00 this morning!!!

And if I had a radio that would reach from here to the Valley, I'd take you up on that!

Dude your troubles are enough to worry about, I'll be fine... Just like I feel you will!

Jeff


natec


Jul 16, 2002, 8:25 PM
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Thanks dude. I would have helped you if I could. It would give me something to do.


crackaddict


Jul 16, 2002, 8:38 PM
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Ahhhh! Jeff she is just watching out for you man.

Shelley,
Cell phones are only as good as thier range. I bring mine everywhere but I am lucky if the thing works half the time. Radios can't always be trusted. Ask Pete. I tried to get a hold of him for days while he was on El Cap.

There is always a chance of something happening when you are soloing.
But there is always a chance of something happening if you get in your car and drive somewhere by yourself.
You actually have more of a chance getting hit by and hurt drunk driver than getting hurt climbing.

I solo and go outdoors by myself all the time. The best thing to do is to make a plan. Let people know where you are going to be, what time you will be back, and maybe a time you will call them to let them know how things are. Most people are more cautious by themselves because they don't have as many distractions.

I know Jeff has been preparing for this and has all the know how he needs to get up this route.

But I do admire your concern for him.


climbsomething


Jul 16, 2002, 10:49 PM
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YAY! go get that phone and give us all the number! We luv you too man. But your "kutie" loves ya more. Lucky you!

Good luck, take care out there, and come back to us whole with a really bitchin' trip report!


passthepitonspete


Jul 17, 2002, 7:09 AM
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I am glad you realize the difference between "fishing" and "angling."

I recently helped Iris get her profile photo up and running, and would be happy to help. Just email and photos to my regular email address, and I'll manipulate them to meet RC.com's requirements for posting, then post them for you like I did for Iris. I'll submit it, then ask the photo editor to move the photo over to your profile.

You realize, Krusty, that you are now in far too deep to ever consider bailing.

And this is precisely the way I like to see you.

Now quit wanking about.

Shut up and climb.


passthepitonspete


Jul 17, 2002, 7:26 AM
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This is my partner:



That guy can sure as heck belay!


beyond_gravity


Jul 17, 2002, 10:10 AM
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Pee-Wee the Ice Climbing Crayfish said that he would solo up behind you. You dont want to make him mad though, you wouldnt want him to "back stab" you with his axes!



hollyclimber


Jul 18, 2002, 8:46 AM
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Ok-first I will admit that I was too anxious to chime in to read everything, so hear goes...

I don't get any cell reception at Index until at the TOP of the Wall. So, carrying a cell phone would be good to let Shelly know when you are done, but that is about it.

Next, a funny story. A couple of guys were climbing on Index Town Wall (where Krustys climb is) and they spent the day in typical fashion--swearing like sailors, and also making lots of comments about the locals. That night in the pub, someone asked if they had been climbing on the Upper Town Wall that day. Surprised that anyone would guess or know that, the climbers said yes. Then, they were told that every word was heard.

So, if Krusty gets hurt, as long as he can scream, the people of Index will hear him (not to mention the other people climbing, which there always are, even if they aren't at the Upper Town Wall) and someone will come and help him.

So, I think Shelly's main concern (and sorry guys but we just can't help but worry about the men we love) is whether anything bad will happen. If it does happen, Jeff will probably be just fine without the cell phone or the ground-person, although it could speed the rescue. The key is whether something will happen in the first place.

But, that's enough for me to say because I dont want Shelly to get mad at me!!

My boyfriend is out climbing quite a bit without me, and pretty much the whole time he is gone I imagine bad things happening. When he gets home I am super relieved and he is somewhat insulted (or at least he acts like it in a joking way) that I would even THINK that something bad would happen, but I do worry.

Holly


carnaged


Jul 22, 2002, 5:50 PM
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Well, I've never tried to climb solo aid, I've always had people with me..but uh, I really don't think it's safe, but that's only my opinion.

If I were to go up to the Crags, and I didn't have a cel (which I don't ) or a ground man and a radio, I'd think I'd like a few other climbers out at the crags too.

But I guess, if it were the other way around, then of course if no other climbers at the crags were around, I wouldn't go without some sort of contact.

I don't know, it's just me, I'm one of those people that get held back in climbing, just because she's too damn scared it isn't safe.

Kat


mtnjohn


Jul 22, 2002, 5:50 PM
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What happened to going climbing (especially soloing) to get away from it all?
NO cell phones when i climb.
just a personal rule.
I still crave adventure and actively seek it out


bigdan


Jul 22, 2002, 6:24 PM
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I agree. If someone wants to bring one, it's probably a good idea, go for it. I personally will almost always leave it on the ground, in the car, whatever.

Having a cell phone bothers me enough when I'm driving around the city, never mind when I'm halfway up a cliff!

I know I don't have to use it, but I like the feeling of being a bit farther out there, you know? My cell seems to take that away...


bigwalling


Jul 22, 2002, 7:56 PM
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I get great reception with a cell at Index. I've used a cell phone from most places around there and this includes the base of the upper wall.


freeclmr


Jul 27, 2002, 10:04 AM
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I rope-solo aid and free 99.9% of the time and never hurt myself beyond a mild roadrash. I have, however, had one MAJOR climbing injury...and that was when I was climbing with a friend. (go figure). I believe that rope soloing, free or aid, is as dangerous as you make it and the drive to the crag or the Valley is more dangerous than the climb itself.


passthepitonspete


Jul 28, 2002, 5:54 PM
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You wanker, Krusty!

Have you frickin' climbed the damn thing yet?????


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