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x2drich
Jul 17, 2002, 1:07 AM
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The other day I was out climbing a sport route that was just about at my limits. I got the first two bolts clipped without any problem but fell before I could clip the third bolt (my hands were on a shelf above the bolt). I ended up taking a good size fall, probably 20-25 feet. This is by far the longest fall I had ever taken. Any way, when I got back to the ground, my nerves were a little shaken up. I did do a little bouldering after the fall without any problem. Then yesterday I went climbing again and set up a top rope on a route I had never completed before. Got about 15 feet up, my nerves started acting up, and I froze.
Therefore, my questions, to anyone who has taken a good size fall, what was your mindset after the fall and what did you do to settle your nerves?
Thanks
DJ
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climbinganne
Jul 17, 2002, 1:19 AM
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I feel you should have gotten right back on that route and finished it. But I can't talk, lately I have also had leading problems...
it's mental, you must work through it...
it's mental, you must work through it...
it's mental, you must work through it...
sorry, trying to convince myself.
BTW is warminster near phila????
[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-07-16 18:22 ]
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philbox
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Jul 17, 2002, 1:20 AM
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I think it is beneficial to jump right back on the pointy end and send that booger. I took a head first near ground fall from twenty five feet up, it was just like in Alfred Hitchcocks Vertigo, ground screaming up at me at a fast rate of knots.
I told my belayer, who incidentally I had to look up to, not to lower me to the ground. I jumped right back on and sent that climb.
The thing I find with a decent fall is that it happens all too quickly to be scared and if I keep my mind in the zone of climbing, and to do that it necessitates climbing, I don`t seem to suffer what could be described as post traumatic stress as I have normalised the fall within the context of climbing.
Have I made any sense, good, get up off the couch and pay the receptionist on the way out.
...Phil (the shrink, not)...
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wildtrail
Jul 17, 2002, 1:22 AM
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My fall was about the same as yours. The longest I have ever taken. Somewhere in between 25-30 (closer to 25). The landing hurt my ankles and wrists a little. I rubbed them, looked up, and made mental notes not to do that ever again. It scared the hell out of me. What did I do to settle my nerves? Hung there, relaxed for a minute, and breathed deeply after I settled down. I was definitely more timid that day when climbing after the fall, and for a while, I was constantly checking below my feet to see how far that last piece of pro was. It took a couple of months, but I got back to the norm. I just don't run out any more.
Steve
[ This Message was edited by: wildtrail on 2002-07-16 18:24 ]
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x2drich
Jul 17, 2002, 1:35 AM
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Hey Anne, yes Warminster is sort of North-Northeast of Philadelphia, near Doylestown, and about 15-20 minutes from Ralph Stover State Park. I fell on Itching to Climb at Birdsboro. My belayer and I ended up being eye to eye when I stopped.
DJ
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jt512
Jul 17, 2002, 1:37 AM
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How I feel after a fall depends on the specific fall. If I fall into space and get a soft catch from my belayer, it increases my confidence. If I get hurt or my belayer slams me into the wall, it reduces my confidence. I've taken 30-footers that made me laugh (or cry depending on how much my arms were flaming) and 6-footers that really shook me up.
-Jay
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apollodorus
Jul 17, 2002, 1:48 AM
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The first time I took a good whipper was on a steep hand crack. After a short hang, I went right back up and finished the pitch. After that, I was just as bold, or even bolder about hard free climbing. I did routes rated as hard or harder for the rest of the summer. I came off the couch the next spring to do the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral as my first climb that year. BUT, it was less than a year later that I stopped climbing for 18+ years, and have only recently gotten back on the rock. And I took an intentional 25 foot whipper 150 feet from the summit of El Capitan two months ago, knocking a pin on a traverse loose so I wouldn't have to leave it. I think all those carnival rides I took as a child has something to do with it . . .
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woodse
Jul 17, 2002, 1:58 AM
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How does falling while clipping bolts fit into the trad category?
None the less, after a good fall (I've had a few 25+ footers) I just breath in and out, relax and begin climbing again. I usually feel better after good falls because I'm always wondering if I'm going to survive and then I do, just makes me trust the gear even more. You have to push the fear of falling out of your mind if you're ever to become a great climber......I know, I know, easier said than done. Good luck
woodsE
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climbinganne
Jul 17, 2002, 3:32 AM
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Woodse...you know I was just thinking the same thing...wrong forum, but what the hey!!
And dude from warminster...give us a holler we will meet at birdsboro sometime, and I'll show you the great trees there, capable of tying your belayer to. (I know, I keep ending sentences in prepositions, I CAN'T HELP IT)
[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-07-16 20:36 ]
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jt512
Jul 17, 2002, 3:34 AM
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Quote:
How does falling while clipping bolts fit into the trad category?
Oops, I got to the thread from the front page and didn't notice it was in the trad forum.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-07-16 20:35 ]
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crackaddict
Jul 17, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Best thing to do after you fall off a horse is to get back on!
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apollodorus
Jul 17, 2002, 6:21 AM
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"When the route just gets too hard, you must whip it. When the crack just spits you out, you must whip it. When things just get too thin, you must whip it. If you're gonna be the man, you must whip it. *duh duh-nuh duh-nuh* I say whip it. *dum da-da duh-nuh duh-nuh* Whip it good." - Devo, 1979
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sparky
Jul 17, 2002, 7:33 AM
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Can't stop climbing, you'll get used to falling, but for knoow you can look on the brightside, YOU STAYED OF THE DECK
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timpanogos
Jul 19, 2002, 6:21 AM
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Just took my first lead fall last week (on a sports route) - fell while trying to clip the 3rd bolt - about 8' from 2nd bolt, so around 16' fall.
Actually, my belayer had only belayed top-rope - I got nervious at the clip, as there was more slack than I wanted if I fell - so I said - take - which he promptly did - take me right off the wall that is.
It was on a friction face - jammed my toes a bit on re-entry but that was it. It happened very fast - and was a big confidence booster for me - hey I can fall and not get hurt. R and X rating now make a lot more sense to me - yea I might pop, but it's air, or the landing is not bad - go for it - or - rough landing if you pop now - be cautious!
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jt512
Jul 19, 2002, 4:45 PM
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Next time, don't say "take" when you are above your bolt.
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timpanogos
Jul 20, 2002, 3:42 AM
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Jay - Yea - thanks for the 20-20 hind site!!! At the time, I think my son would have done the same thing on a "watch me" - now - we both know better - and better yet, I hopefully gained enough confidence from the fall, that a few more feet would not have made any difference, and I'll be more intent on the climbing, instead of the falling.
I'm getting more and more comfortable on the rock now - it feels so nice. I did a very clean 5.9 TR yesterday - it really flowed.
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jt512
Jul 23, 2002, 1:10 AM
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I don't like to say "watch me" either. Too many belayers interpret this to mean "take the slack out of the rope," which, on a vertical to overhanging route, results in getting slammed into the wall if you fall. There's really no need to say anything.
A lot of climbers will say "take" when they are above their bolt. When I'm belaying and my partner yells "take," I always look to see where he is in relation to his bolt. If he's above it, I ignore what he says, make sure I have the appropriate amount of slack in the rope for the terrain, and get ready to give the proper catch.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-07-22 18:14 ]
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ffaallliinngg
Jul 30, 2002, 2:07 AM
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My mindset after a trad fall--
"sport climbing!"
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