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soyshadymilkman
Jul 12, 2005, 5:34 PM
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So I just got a 20' cordolette and tied it up (double fisherman's knot) and it's good to go. I've used a cordolette before and done a little trad leading so I'm not asking how to use the cordolette on a route, but how to tie it up to rack on your harness. It should be really simple but for some reason I can't figure out a way to keep it neatly coiled and tied off for when I'm climbing. Anyone know how or have an image that could help me out?
Gracias
sorry if this's been asked before, ran a search and couldn't find anything.
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taterlandclimber
Jul 12, 2005, 5:57 PM
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check-out chockstone.org
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csgambill
Jul 12, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Double it over a couple of times then tie an overhand knot in it. Slap it on a big biner and you're good to go.
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bluenose
Jul 12, 2005, 6:44 PM
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Half it two or three times, drop one loop, twist the rest into an eight and fold. It should be about a handspan diameter coil. Squeeze it together, wrap the dropped loop snug aroud the coil and poke the end of the wrapped loop through the coil at one end, pull tight, it should be just long enough to poke out of the coil. Clip this loop to the biner.
Hmm...looks about as clear as mud. It works though, keeps everything tangle free and doesn't catch on stuff as it stays good and tight.
Sorry no pics.
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saxfiend
Jul 12, 2005, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: check-out chockstone.org
Take the single cordelette loop and double it, then double it again; you should now have four equal loops.
Drop one of the four loops, then double the remaining three once or twice more to a manageably short bundle of loops.
Use the dropped loop to wrap around the main bundle until you've got only a few inches of loose cord (wrap tightly and flat to keep it neat).
Slip the remaining few inches of the wrapping loop through the end loops of the main bundle, then clip this single loop to a biner and you're done.
The nice thing about this method is when you're ready to use the cordelette, you just unclip it from the biner, pull the single clipping loop free, and the whole thing uncoils into a ready-to-use, untangled cordelette.
Hope my description was clear . . .
JL
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keinangst
Jul 12, 2005, 6:48 PM
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This may sound like the above, but it's different.
Double it, then double it again until you have 4 loops in each hand and about 3'-4' hanging freely. Start looping your hands and twisting the cord like a bunch of strands of pasta. The torsion on the cordage will make it tighten up on its own.
Once the two ends in your hands are nearly cinched together by the mass of spaghetti, just clip an HMS biner through all 8 loops and you'll have a snag-free, ready-to-snap-open cordalette. It'll be a little bigger than a softball with no real shape.
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euroford
Jul 12, 2005, 7:01 PM
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i just quadruple mine and tie an overhand in it, clip it to a bd mini pearbiner.
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areuinclimber
Jul 12, 2005, 7:27 PM
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put the fishermans in your palm (so the full loop is in your palm, not just one strand) and coil it loosely around the middle of your hand until you have about 1.5 ft left of cord. use this to rap around the body of the "doughnut" you have made by coiling it around your hand. leave about 4-6" left and stick it through the doughnut and tighten. takes up very little room and wont unravel on its own.
thanks to climbinginchico who taught me that trick.
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charley
Jul 12, 2005, 7:50 PM
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daisychain it.
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forkliftdaddy
Jul 12, 2005, 7:59 PM
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Another option is to not rack, but to wear it. Make a coil out of it -- necessary size varies with the size of the person -- and then throw it over your head and one shoulder.
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climberpunk
Jul 13, 2005, 2:05 AM
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In reply to: put the fishermans in your palm (so the full loop is in your palm, not just one strand) and coil it loosely around the middle of your hand until you have about 1.5 ft left of cord. use this to rap around the body of the "doughnut" you have made by coiling it around your hand. leave about 4-6" left and stick it through the doughnut and tighten. takes up very little room and wont unravel on its own. thanks to climbinginchico who taught me that trick.
seriously this is the way to go. just wrap it round your hand and then tie it off like a normal coil. you only have to clip one loop, as opposed to 4 or 8, and its hella fast to (un)do.
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sharpshootr987
Jul 13, 2005, 2:48 AM
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These are the best methods ive seen yet!!!
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rufusandcompany
Jul 16, 2005, 10:23 PM
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I've used them extensively, for guiding and instructing, and they work great. The easiest method that I've found is to loop the Cordelette over itself four times, then simply sling it over my shoulder. My Cordelettes are twenty feet long, fastened with double fisherman knots. I am 6' tall, so four loops makes this rig sit from my shoulder to slightly above my hips. It never gets in my way. When I am ready to use one, I simply remove it from my shoulder.
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saxfiend
Jul 16, 2005, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: I've used them extensively, for guiding and instructing, and they work great. The easiest method that I've found is to loop the Cordelette over itself four times, then simply sling it over my shoulder. My Cordelettes are twenty feet long, fastened with double fisherman knots. I am 6' tall, so four loops makes this rig sit from my shoulder to slightly above my hips. It never gets in my way. When I am ready to use one, I simply remove it from my shoulder.
JL
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climbinginchico
Jul 16, 2005, 11:58 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: put the fishermans in your palm (so the full loop is in your palm, not just one strand) and coil it loosely around the middle of your hand until you have about 1.5 ft left of cord. use this to rap around the body of the "doughnut" you have made by coiling it around your hand. leave about 4-6" left and stick it through the doughnut and tighten. takes up very little room and wont unravel on its own. thanks to climbinginchico who taught me that trick. seriously this is the way to go. just wrap it round your hand and then tie it off like a normal coil. you only have to clip one loop, as opposed to 4 or 8, and its hella fast to (un)do.
Josh Wharton taught me this trick- I use it on my tech cord cordalette and my WC dyneema sling cordalette. They pack down super small.
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rufusandcompany
Jul 17, 2005, 4:01 AM
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Hi Saxfiend, I do carry slings as well. The trick to keeping them convenient is to hang the slings over the same shoulder as the cordelette. The problems occur when you alternate shoulders. I have been doing it this way for several decades, and I can manage them with my eyes closed.
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jammer
Jul 17, 2005, 7:38 PM
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I just fold my cordolettes four times, tie it either in a figure 8 or an overhand and clip it to my back loop. Maybe I'm missing simething ... ?
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rufusandcompany
Apr 17, 2006, 7:51 PM
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yfdyjftyjftytyjtyj
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csgambill
Apr 17, 2006, 8:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Double it over a couple of times then tie an overhand knot in it. Slap it on a big biner and you're good to go. I do this except with an additional twist on the overhand. It makes it shorter which is good for short people.
I previously forgot to mention that I fold the cordolette in half after I tie the overhand knot in it. I prefer this method because it's quick and relatively uncluttered plus it twist up the cord forcing you to spend a lot of time unraveling all the twists while setting up an anchor.
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