|
rickrock77
Jul 12, 2005, 10:48 AM
Post #1 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 139
|
Anyone ever had a fight, or major disagreement with another climber(s) over something while at a wall?
Such as climbers over taking in mid pitch, or doing soemthing that affected your climb, or where you were camped?
Never had an arguments myself, just curious what has happened to others..
|
|
|
|
|
jcshaggy
Jul 12, 2005, 12:57 PM
Post #2 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 340
|
Somebody once knocked over my beer. I was pissed.
|
|
|
|
|
takewrning
Jul 12, 2005, 12:58 PM
Post #3 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2005
Posts: 28
|
haha, I used to date the guy I climb trad with, but we still bicker about things like we're small children. Never anything major, mainly over small things like: does the route goes 6 inches right of the crack or left of the crack (and of course we both think we're right), who gets the last bite of the Luna bar- whether I should even have to share my Luna bar with him since it's gender specific :wink: , whether to sling this rock or that tree, where to put the tent, who sleeps on which side of the tent, 'you pick which pitch you want to lead, no you pick', and 'you shined your headlamp on my eyes on purpose!'
It's pretty amusing and humorous for us (and anyone sharing a belay station with us), - we usually laugh through it all - especially our 3rd. He always says that he needs a referee whistle.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jul 12, 2005, 1:58 PM
Post #4 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I once killed a man for offering unsolicited beta.
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Jul 12, 2005, 11:45 PM
Post #5 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
Once again we are reminded that Aussies and Yanks are separated by a common language.
Up here a biff is a fatal crater.
I myself ofcourse have never ever, EVER had even the most minor of disagreements with ANY of my partners.
But once a guy took a shot at me just for giving him unsolicited beta.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jul 13, 2005, 12:00 AM
Post #6 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
"Belay is off!"
|
|
|
|
|
yannbuse
Jul 13, 2005, 12:14 AM
Post #7 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2003
Posts: 112
|
I can only think of one climb where an issue came up with another climbing team. It was on La Petite Aiguille Verte in Chamonix, its a real popular route for guides to take clients for a crash course on alpine climbing.
Anyhoo, on this day the route was crowded as hell, and this guide comes up from beneath me and decides to overtake me without asking. I thought, alright, fine, no need to start some shit up here. Anyways as the guy moved up, he started moving up between my legs and then between my body and the rock. I could have let go of my 4 points, hugged him and i would not have moved. At this point i flipped my shit and threatened to stab him with my crampons and cut his rope if he didnt back off. Luckily he did, because i had a couple of clear shots.
At the top i had a word with him. Turned out to be a cool guy that knew quite a few of my guide friends in the valley. He apologised, made up some excuse and offered me a beer at the bottom.
SO, if you get my way i will stab with my crampons.... YOU HEAR ME... STAB YOU
yann
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jul 13, 2005, 12:26 AM
Post #8 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: SO, if you get my way i will stab with my crampons.... YOU HEAR ME... STAB YOU
I know: 'I will gut you with my nut-tool' :twisted:
doesn't have quite the same ring to it though....
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Jul 13, 2005, 12:47 AM
Post #9 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
I did my first El Cap climb with the grand-nephew of Armand Charlet, the Chamonix Superguide himself. Word is that to get his summit bonus (part of the contract) he used to beat his clients to get them to continue! Apparently there were enough new clients and masochists to support his guiding practise.
Read the account by Matt Culberson in Climbing about having a pushy euro bluster past him on the Walker Spur, then pull off a huge block that nearly hits them and goes on to visibly kill two climbers below.
Here's a bizarre story:
My whole family hated my mom's stepmother, maybe even her father too. Katrin wrote cheap pulp novels under the nom de plume Martha Albrand. And fiction was definitely her milieu. The old bag was astoundingly full of crap.
My grandfather actually climbed a bit in the Alps, but his blowhard wife once claimed to have climbed Monta Rosa in high heels. She went on to describe how alpine guides carry revolvers to collapse seracs with the sound wave. She claimed that originally they used to carry bullwhips for this purpose!!!! My mom and I just rolled our eyes.
A few years later I landed on a glacier below Monta Rosa and my partners wanted to know what I was laughing at....
Imagine my complete and utter shock when I come across the name Martha Albrand in CLIMBING magazine in an article listing climbing related novels.
Now I'm starting to think that carrying a handgun in the Alps might actually not be such a bad idea. I have already gone strapped on a few desert climbs. Ask charlieclimber what he saw on Full Metal Jockstrap when he gets back from Pakistan.
|
|
|
|
|
crackrn
Jul 13, 2005, 12:52 AM
Post #10 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: I know: 'I will gut you with my nut-tool' doesn't have quite the same ring to it though....
I don't know about that...for some reason I said this out loud (don't ask) and it was received quite well by my co-workers. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
8flood8
Jul 13, 2005, 1:07 AM
Post #11 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
|
One time my buddy and i were climbing at new wall, down in austin, when this south-of-the-border-import-to-UT-jackass-climber-guy decides that he is going to try and snake a run underneath me... on a route that shares the first bolt - and up into a dihedral. So as this buster comes up underneath me i look at him and say, " don't you fucking think that is rude you dumbass? can you not see me right here?"
he just looks up at me and continues on, so i fall on purpose and get in his way and then have my buddy lower me. He proceeds to run some laps on this easy 9, being in the way of the 11 that i am working. Well we wait until he's out of the way and i untie to give my buddy a shot. He goes up and at this time the dumbass is like, " uh.. you are in my way" to my friend. So i say Gus, "don't let him give you any shit he just did the same fucking thing to me." He looks off the wall at me and says, " WHAT?"
so i say, "I SAID, 'don't let him give you any shit he just did the same fucking thing to me'"
He then turns and keeps climbing. Now his belayer was a pretty cute girl, who was pretty embarassed at the event brewing at the very popular crag. Gus, just laughs and keeps trying the climb.
Later the dude comes down and apologizes to me, so i shook his hand, but what a fucking goober.
|
|
|
|
|
dangle
Jul 13, 2005, 4:34 AM
Post #12 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2004
Posts: 814
|
Mark my words:
There will be an incident. Something will happen between parties crowded on a climb and it will galvanize land managers into new restrictions....
|
|
|
|
|
sharpshootr987
Jul 13, 2005, 4:45 AM
Post #13 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 111
|
In reply to: "Belay is off!"
LOL!!! And i image your reply was "belay is dead"
|
|
|
|
|
spoon
Jul 13, 2005, 4:48 AM
Post #14 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 312
|
The only fights I have seen have all been about dogs. Go figure.
|
|
|
|
|
krisp
Jul 13, 2005, 4:51 AM
Post #15 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 233
|
In reply to: In reply to: "Belay is off!" LOL!!! And i image your reply was "belay is dead"
Alright, I'm a nOOb, what ther hell is "LOL"?
|
|
|
|
|
krisp
Jul 13, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #17 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 233
|
In reply to: In reply to: Alright, I'm a nOOb, what ther hell is "LOL"? :lol:
What's so funny? :?:
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jul 13, 2005, 5:04 AM
Post #18 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: What's so funny? :?:
The code for the emoticon is : L O L :
Sorry, probably something only a bored webmaster would notice :oops:
|
|
|
|
|
krisp
Jul 13, 2005, 5:08 AM
Post #19 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 233
|
Thanks, Feelin' cooler than ever now.
This chat room crap can be kind of lame. Do you feel lame, I do.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jul 13, 2005, 5:11 AM
Post #20 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: This chat room crap can be kind of lame. Do you feel lame, I do.
trust me, I wouldn't be posting as much, if I had more productive things to do, but I am at work, so...... :P
|
|
|
|
|
krisp
Jul 13, 2005, 5:18 AM
Post #21 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 233
|
In reply to: In reply to: This chat room crap can be kind of lame. Do you feel lame, I do. Yup! trust me, I wouldn't be posting as much, if I had more productive things to do, but I am at work, so...... :P |
|
|
|
|
sharpshootr987
Jul 13, 2005, 5:36 AM
Post #22 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 111
|
Wow!!! I think this is some thing a climbing mag should write about: "what climbers do when not climbing"
|
|
|
|
|
mungeclimber
Jul 13, 2005, 5:43 AM
Post #23 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
|
In reply to: The only fights I have seen have all been about dogs. Go figure.
I believe it.
Almost died on Snake Dike. The German guy is guiding this couple up the route above us, and initially going VERY slowly. As there is a party below us, I start up the main run out pitch on the route. Beautiful climbing. I get near the belay where all three of them are, and I'm taking my time, not rushing at all, but my feet are tired so I ask, "you mind if I clip into the anchor?" "ya" and he waves me up. So I start up in between the couple to clip into the anchor with a really long sling and wait it out while they blast. Clearly he doesn't understand what I'm doing. I'm looking at probably a 100' plus bender to the slabs below. Teeth chipping material if ever there was Mr. Tupper.
So what does he do? He reaches out and pushes me back away from the anchor.
I MEAN FUKK!!! Are you out of your god damn mind?
I instinctively yell at him "DON'T FUKKING TOUCH ME!"
He lightly taps and I wobble. But come back in and just jam myself up and clip and drop down now fuming waiting for the kraut to move his ass and his tubbo guided couple.
It worked out ok, they picked up speed and I didn't have to see them on top. The only bummer of that day was that we didn't spend any time on top. Still regret that.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jul 13, 2005, 6:07 AM
Post #24 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
My partner and I yelled at another party higher than us on the Grand Wall in Squamish... we were about to start the Split Pillar pitch... when a boot comes flying past us and down into the abyss that is the base of the Grand Wall.... fine... bizzare, but ok.... next we hear "Rope!" and a fully coiled rope lands right on both our laps.... SMACK!.... it fcukin' hurt like hell.... pricks!.... we look up and yell abuse.... another object comes hurtling past us.... oh, a camera..... SMASH, CRACK, SMASH.... tinkle tinkle.... LMAO!!! Serves 'em right..... their haul pack or whatever the fcuk they were carrying was emptying itself all over the Grand Wall.... slacks, drink bottle, another shoe.... they had to rap in retreat and guess what?.... right past us too.... yippeeee! More abuse!.... "You realise we could confiscate this rope you know?"... "If we found it at the bottom we could run off with it." ....we handed it back.... if only I could turn back time..... we were too nice to them.... but we figured they got their just desserts loosing a pretty nice camera....
|
|
|
|
|
sharpshootr987
Jul 13, 2005, 6:55 AM
Post #25 of 26
(2752 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2004
Posts: 111
|
We were climbing one day and some dad had his 2 oldest sons climbing one day and also his 5 or 6 year old sin with him. We are down at the bottom fo the route getting set up and they were up at the top of the routes setting up a TR. I started getting pegged with rocks so i turn around and chuck one at my partner who gets pissed at me for thinking it was him. So we both yell at eachother and then all the sudden i get hit again and it was this little kid that the dad wasnt watching just chilling near the edge of the rock wall
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
