Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Bald Cam Lobes
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


jabtocrag


Jul 13, 2005, 11:02 AM
Post #1 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 476

Bald Cam Lobes
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So who climbs on their cams after the teeth on the lobes have been completely worn off...down to nothing but a smoothed over lobe surface. I think most manufacturers recommend retirement of the cam at that point, but I know a number of climbers that think nothing of continuing to use them. All my cams are less than a year old, so I haven't actually had to deal with this yet!! :D :D


geezergecko


Jul 13, 2005, 11:28 AM
Post #2 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 26, 2002
Posts: 729

Re: Bald Cam Lobes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sounds like planned obsolescence to me. I recall a thread that claimed that the teeth are pretty much for show and some early cams had no teeth at all. The new BD C4s have more shallow teeth than the older design. Is that a conspiracy to get us to buy new cams more often?


edge


Jul 13, 2005, 11:42 AM
Post #3 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120

Re: Bald Cam Lobes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I bought a bootleg 1/2 size rigid stem Friend once, with no teeth whatsoever. In 24 years of owning and using it, it has never slipped, and has caught my 195+ pound frame on several occasions. I plan on using it for still some time to come.


mgoodro


Jul 13, 2005, 11:43 AM
Post #4 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2004
Posts: 119

Re: Bald Cam Lobes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The three smallest Aliens have no teeth.


tradklime


Jul 13, 2005, 11:51 AM
Post #5 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235

Re: Bald Cam Lobes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In solid clean rock the smoother the better. Results in more contact surface area.

Teeth can be helpful in gritty, lichen covered, or chossy rock.

The degree of helpfulness is debateable.

Early Metolius TCU's and Wired Bliss cams had smooth lobes.

One problem that can occur if a cam had teeth but now has lobes that are worn smooth is that the shape of the cam lobe can be changed if the wear was localized, resulting in a different cam angle than the unit was designed with. This is likely since we rarely place cams at the very limits of their range.


southbayclimber


Jul 13, 2005, 11:56 AM
Post #6 of 6 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83

Re: Bald Cam Lobes [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This is my own personal experience, but I have found that the older cams I have that don't have teeth anymore are more likely to slip out of chossy or vegitated cracks. For example I placed an old tcu that has no teeth in a crack that had some wet moss in it and it slipped out. Not shocking, but probably would have a better chance of staying in if it had teeth. I don't think teeth do anything once there is outward pressure pushing it against the rock (then it just has more surface area), but my guess is that if your not climbing trade routes and come accross vegitated cracks, teeth are probably your friends. That said, I still place my bald cams all the time.

Cheers,

jason


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook