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Offset nuts?
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Jul 12, 2005, 9:34 PM
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Offset nuts?
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I was just looking at the MEC.ca website and I came across the DMM peenut. The description labelled it as an offset nut, which got me wondering, other than it's small size, what makes the DMM peenut different from a regular nut? Or more specifically, what makes an offset nut different from a regular nut? In the picture, I couldn't see any remarkable difference in shape from a typical nut, although I suppose that could be attributed to the angle of the photo.
I've heard that offsets are good in slightly flaring cracks. Is this true? What else makes them useful?
Cheers


jumpingrock


Jul 12, 2005, 10:50 PM
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offset nuts keep you from squishing them together when you close your legs. Really a life saver I tell you!


shutupandclimb


Jul 12, 2005, 11:01 PM
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The peenuts have the point of one corner rounded off. And instead of parallel sides, they slant outwards from the rounded side (so you have a larger width on one end.)

So when you place it in a flare, it sits further back because there isn't a point at the back rotating it out, and the sides are angled more with the flaring sides of the crack so you get more surface area in contact with the rock.

I absolutely love mine for Squamish. I'd recommend them to anyone.

Dave


sharpshootr987


Jul 12, 2005, 11:02 PM
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offset nuts keep you from squishing them together when you close your legs. Really a life saver I tell you!

LOL!!! Freaking Hilarious


tradrenn


Jul 15, 2005, 6:50 PM
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The peenuts have the point of one corner rounded off. And instead of parallel sides, they slant outwards from the rounded side (so you have a larger width on one end.)

So when you place it in a flare, it sits further back because there isn't a point at the back rotating it out, and the sides are angled more with the flaring sides of the crack so you get more surface area in contact with the rock.

I absolutely love mine for Squamish. I'd recommend them to anyone.

Dave

I will second that.
I climb with them and find them quite useful.
Instead of two set of BD Stopper nuts get on of each.

Just my 0.02 cents


tradrenn


Jul 15, 2005, 6:52 PM
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offset nuts keep you from squishing them together when you close your legs. Really a life saver I tell you!

You can do better then that, can't you ?


landgolier


Jul 15, 2005, 7:38 PM
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Man, why can't I rate posts today?

In reply to:
offset nuts keep you from squishing them together when you close your legs. Really a life saver I tell you!


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