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bmxer


Jul 18, 2005, 11:51 AM
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Please bolt my country
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Hi I live in Armenia and we don't have any sport climbs here. I've only been here for 3 months and we can either top rope or try to trust 30 year old soviet pitons. If anyone is an experienced bolter and would like to leave his legend on Armenian rock and find a place in the hearts of our climbing community then we invite you.
No one is experienced enough or has the right tools to bolt routes. The gov't cares about other stuff, and most people here don't know much about rock climbing. There are some climbers here though, most of us a part of the Spitak Rescue Center, and all of whom are Alpinists.
I am confident if we had some good bolted routes and eventually if someone built a climbing gym here the sport would skyrocket like in all other countries.

Here are pictures of an example climbing area. This is Garni canyon. We own a house on the edge of this canyon. It is in the shape of a two pronged fork w/ rivers inside both sides. There are miles of rock I think that could make good routes.

http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/13.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/14.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/...s/v310/Soteki/15.jpg

Thanks!


noshoesnoshirt


Jul 18, 2005, 12:30 PM
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Dang. That's some very cool looking rock.


adoubleyou


Jul 18, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Man, that rock looks bad ass. I hope you find people to bolt it, would be a sin not to. I can't, unfortunately :(


shorty


Jul 18, 2005, 12:40 PM
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In reply to:
Hi I live in Armenia and we don't have any sport climbs here. I've only been here for 3 months and we can either top rope or try to trust 30 year old soviet pitons. If anyone is an experienced bolter and would like to leave his legend on Armenian rock and find a place in the hearts of our climbing community then we invite you.
I'm trying to keep an open mind about the situation in another part of the world, but
:troll: keeps popping into my head.

Just guessing here, but those columns look a lot like basalt flows. As in Devils Tower. Maybe one should consider the trad lines before Mr. Bosch and Mr. Hilti visit town.


roughster


Jul 18, 2005, 12:47 PM
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Send myself and Caughtinside round trip airfare, arrange local accomidations, and supply us with all the hardware and beer we need, and we'll come to turn that into a sport climbing paradise :)


kinosoo


Jul 18, 2005, 12:56 PM
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wow man that looks sick


shorty


Jul 18, 2005, 12:58 PM
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In reply to:
Send myself and Caughtinside round trip airfare, arrange local accomidations, and supply us with all the hardware and beer we need, and we'll come to turn that into a sport climbing paradise :)
Good point. But I'd also ask for food. And daily massages from the (undoubtedly) uber-hot local climber babes. Always start high when negotiating -- you can compromise later.


areuinclimber


Jul 18, 2005, 1:02 PM
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holy columnar jointing!
trad leads abound my friend! (only going on the fuzzy picz provided)
be sparse with the bolts if there are cracks big enough (as is common in hexagonal basalt). it wouldn't be hard to learn bolting as i am sure there is plenty of choss rock in the area (though most looks relatively solid).

there is some awesome geology going on there.


tallnik


Jul 18, 2005, 1:10 PM
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I'm sure some of those alpinists you know how to place trad gear. Looks good from the pics.

I say there's still stuff to bolt. I'm suprised that there's really no one to bolt around there. Like someone else suggested, maybe you could buy a drill (share the costs?) and bolt choss until you get the idea. Maybe I just commited a serious faux pax.

Otherwise, maybe when you fly to fresno, look up some route developers who will share the secrets.

Cheers,
Nik


Partner euroford


Jul 18, 2005, 2:52 PM
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hey bmxer, mail order yourself some trad gear and get working. enjoy it pure while you can!


billcoe_


Jul 18, 2005, 3:02 PM
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In reply to:
hey bmxer, mail order yourself some trad gear and get working. enjoy it pure while you can!

Troll.......?

Must be Fresno, Armenia? and a bunch of columnar Basalt trad lines which need bolts? TRopes won't work in Fresno Armenia?

Username: bmxer (User)
Member Since: 13 Feb 2005 10:24
Last Login: 17 Jul 2005 21:45
Current Location: Fresno
Forum Posts: 139 Find all posts by bmxer
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Personal Description: me, im 5' 9" I'm a noob so don't listen to me.

end of info providing.


billcoe_


Jul 18, 2005, 3:05 PM
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Hmmm: reconsidering: Previous post.

"bmxer
Ok guys here's the real deal. 4 or 5 months ago I made a thread about going to Armenia. And now I've been here for about a month. So I'm not sure exactly what the selection is like in our hardware stores. I should probably check.
My best bet is to find the nylon anchor inserts. Those should be pretty cheap and I don't care too much about being perfectly sound, it's just for me and my friends to goof around in the backyard.

-But I don't know what size I need.

I had my mom ship all my holds here and they're already on their way. She'll be coming to visit in 10 days, and I can maybe ask her to bring some stuff, but shes not very good at finding specefic things. So I can't order anything off of websites because it will take too long to get to her. And I have to know exactly what to tell her in order for her to go to a hardware store.

My choices are : PC-7 glue, for gluing holds on
but I woud like to change things around, So any way to insert holds into the wall would make me happy.

My biggest problem is I Need to know what SIZE anchor inserts for basic climbing hold bolts. And I don't mean length of bolt or insert. I mean width or diameter of bolt and insert. I know that I have to drill a whole slightly bigger than the insert. Because the bolt is slightly smaller than the insert. So... I'm a little confused.



I found that on a website I can't find anymore. Those are apparently Nylon Anchor inserts."


kalcario


Jul 18, 2005, 3:06 PM
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Looks not so much like Devil's Tower as Jailhouse or Bear Crag here in Cali (both near Fresno, coincidentally) and the columns there are too tightly jointed for trad gear. Is there a (hopefully) dormant volcano nearby?


renohandjams


Jul 18, 2005, 3:12 PM
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In reply to:
Just guessing here, but those columns look a lot like basalt flows. As in Devils Tower. Maybe one should consider the trad lines before Mr. Bosch and Mr. Hilti visit town.
Good point. Have you seen any possible trad lines that you could follow? Vertical cracks for nuts and tiny cams? If there are you wouldn't have to wait for someone to come out there, you could just start climbing it, but you would need to go with someone who was experienced in leading trad.


lucas_timmer


Jul 18, 2005, 4:48 PM
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I think it look like the basalt rocks at the giants causeway in Ireland.Don't you ?


healyje


Jul 18, 2005, 6:55 PM
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The area in the photos is quite lovely and the rock is exactly like many of our climbing areas in the Northwest. Get some trad gear - mainly nuts and you can climb all that stuff just fine - few if any bolts beyond rap anchors are required. Actually pins work fabulous in basalt and I would go for those before bolts though the column size looks a tad small so you better be careful what you nail (or bolt).

In general for basalt columns my pref would be gear, pins, then bolts only as absolutely nessecary -- get some trad gear and learn how to use it, pretty much a crime to bolt up basalt columns with protectable cracks everywhere...


Partner phaedrus


Jul 18, 2005, 11:28 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.


bmxer


Jul 19, 2005, 12:55 AM
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In reply to:
Hmmm: reconsidering: Previous post.

"bmxer
Ok guys here's the real deal. 4 or 5 months ago I made a thread about going to Armenia. And now I've been here for about a month. So I'm not sure exactly what the selection is like in our hardware stores. I should probably check.
My best bet is to find the nylon anchor inserts. Those should be pretty cheap and I don't care too much about being perfectly sound, it's just for me and my friends to goof around in the backyard.

-But I don't know what size I need.

I had my mom ship all my holds here and they're already on their way. She'll be coming to visit in 10 days, and I can maybe ask her to bring some stuff, but shes not very good at finding specefic things. So I can't order anything off of websites because it will take too long to get to her. And I have to know exactly what to tell her in order for her to go to a hardware store.

My choices are : PC-7 glue, for gluing holds on
but I woud like to change things around, So any way to insert holds into the wall would make me happy.

My biggest problem is I Need to know what SIZE anchor inserts for basic climbing hold bolts. And I don't mean length of bolt or insert. I mean width or diameter of bolt and insert. I know that I have to drill a whole slightly bigger than the insert. Because the bolt is slightly smaller than the insert. So... I'm a little confused.



I found that on a website I can't find anymore. Those are apparently Nylon Anchor inserts."

uhhh what's your point? That thread was to learn how to bolt into a brick wall to build a gym on the side of my house.


bmxer


Jul 19, 2005, 1:04 AM
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Honestly I didn't see too many cracks. But I am going to try to get some trad gear and see if there's anywhere to climb. Problem is I have no trad experience. And if you want to see what kind of gear we have I made a thread called. "Would you use this gear?" In the trad section. But most people said they would. I just envision a Yosemite style or J-Tree style place where people can go everyweekend and enjoy some decent sport climbing. One of the rivers is freezing cold. But the one on the other side is really nice. It's also a great place to swim, bbq and camp.


healyje


Jul 19, 2005, 1:28 AM
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bmxer,

Those are cracks between the columns - where the plants are growing out.

Yours:

http://img.photobucket.com/...ms/v310/Soteki/9.jpg


Again, trust me on, this is - we climb exactly same kind of rock you are talking about:

Ours:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/...299BeaconColumns.JPG

The real issue is learning how to trad climb - learn to use a rack of gear and you can climb it all...

And yes, I'd climb on that rack though I'd have more nuts and more small cams, but use what you have. The suggestion to put kevlar/tech cord through the smaller hole nearest that cams and run it long so both slings are the same length is a good one - only clip the kevlar cord in horizontal placements. There must be some old trad climbers around there somewhere, you just need to find them. If there aren't any - consider yourself blessed in some ways as you have an opportunity few ever get these days - beautiful stone all to yourself to learn to trad climb on. I had the opportunity once and I still consider it the best part of 31 years of climbing.

The best advice I can offer is keep it trad, keep it quiet, and enjoy it that way as long as you can because if you bolt it and the hordes arrive you'll wish you had never said a word...


thefirstascentionizer


Jul 19, 2005, 2:01 AM
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YO
I just bought my plane ticket. can you pick me up at the airport next monday at 1800 your time? I'm bringin my Annihilator and 200 bolts and hangars.

See you soon.


healyje


Jul 19, 2005, 2:32 AM
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In reply to:
YO
I just bought my plane ticket. can you pick me up at the airport next monday at 1800 your time? I'm bringin my Annihilator and 200 bolts and hangars.

See you soon.

Be sure and put this loser on a set of loose columns...


thefirstascentionizer


Jul 19, 2005, 2:51 AM
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Be sure and put this loser on a set of loose columns...
psh. why u hatin, foo? i'ma do something to advance the sport on a global level. you gotta problem with that?


melekzek


Jul 19, 2005, 3:29 AM
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I've only been here for 3 months and we can either top rope or try to trust 30 year old soviet pitons

so there are some routes already climbed without bolts :evil:


bmxer


Jul 19, 2005, 3:37 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I've only been here for 3 months and we can either top rope or try to trust 30 year old soviet pitons

so there are some routes already climbed without bolts :evil:

Yeah but not in that canyon. They don't have any actual real sport routes here. And I've never climbed one, I was a gym rat in Fresno my first 4 months climbing. Then when I found out I was coming to Armenia and I realized they had no gyms here, I bought rope and harness, and some toprope equipment so I could manage here. But I'd really like some sport routes so the youth and I have some closer connections with nature.
The trad is a good idea, but I still have to overcome a lot of fears before I can start trusting my trad.





Here's a picture I took when I first got there. This is an excellent overview of all the walls I took pictures of. Except for some. The warm water river is on the right.
http://img.photobucket.com/...310/Soteki/ph-03.jpg

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