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esallen


Jul 8, 2005, 11:24 AM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2004
Posts: 304

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Excessive Bail- 11.a Rock Canyon, UT. Very fun lead. Fell once in the crux on my first lead attempt.

Eric


krga20


Jul 8, 2005, 6:21 PM
Post #102 of 107 (7556 views)
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 71

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118 bolts clipped last weekend. I have to say that it was in boulder canyon...not my favorite place.

Yesterdays total was 24 after work! Off to Ouray for the weekend...


justsaynototake


Jul 18, 2005, 12:57 PM
Post #103 of 107 (7556 views)
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Registered: Mar 10, 2005
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In reply to:
In reply to:
As my belayer lowered me I heard a slow clap begin. As the applause rose I thought to myself, "now I am complete...now I can die a happy life"
What a great climbing epic, Eric! I'm glad I'm able to rate posts today. I was going to tell about my latest climb (BellSouth Tower, 16 flights of stairs, very runout), but after your story, I'm speechless.

JL

PS -- You know, that WallCrawler route is a sandbagged 5.7. Zach says it should really be more like a 5.8a.


Ya know, I meant to do that pitch in the BellSouth Tower. But something about the fact that there is just no protection ANYWHERE in the entire 16 flights. I got about two steps up and the 'Elvis-legs' kicked in and I said, "forget this." Maybe next time you do the BellSouth Tower, you can set up a toprope for me. :lol: Until then I will have to take the elevator to the top (aka, the newbie route).

--Eric


maimed


Jul 18, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
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Gelsa in the pouring rain Sunday afternoon. Now maybe I can spawn & die.


musicman


Jul 18, 2005, 9:06 PM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2004
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Today, Primal Magic, 5.11something up American Fork Canyon. Got through the crux moves, was uber-pumped and tried to make an incredibly desperate clip and pull up an armload of slack. Well, right as i felt my fingers touch the carabiner i felt my feet pop and off i went, 30 feet down, after that, i pulled back up, took a short breather at the bolt, and finished the route. Needless to say, i didn't get back on it today, i'm not gonna lie, i was scared, but now i'm beating myself up over it and can't wait until monday to get back on it!


korrigan


Jul 19, 2005, 7:18 AM
Post #106 of 107 (7556 views)
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Registered: Jun 1, 2005
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The last one I did was the pretty long "Snoozing Suzie" at Symmond's Yat, where I was spending the day learning lead climbing for the first time.

This route was the second route I ever climbed when I started rock climbing about 10/11 weeks ago. It scared the shit out of me then, since I was very afraid of heights and had only done a *really* basic route before this one.

And now I've gone and led the bastard! Coming to the top of it and seeing the setting sun over the Wye Valley trees just made my day - this was the best day climbing I've ever had!


hammerhead


Jul 19, 2005, 7:41 AM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
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I did Classic Corner Crack at Logtown quarry in Lisbon Ohio. It's only about 35-40 feet and it's a 5.4-5.5. It's about a fist sized crack and part of it is an offwidth. It can be climbed in the crack or like a face climb. Next time I want to stay in the crack and traverse over to Bursitis. Hey, I just started leading this past spring. I've led this route 3 or 4 times.
I got to get back to the RRG!!!

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