|
sparky
Jul 17, 2002, 7:35 AM
Post #1 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
|
Does anyone not trust it? I trust mine but there has got to be someone who doesn't.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Jul 17, 2002, 7:44 AM
Post #2 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
I think John Bachar, Ron Kauk and Peter Croft don't trust gear. They climb without it. And they climb up stuff you, me and 95% of the rest wouldn't go up even with gear. How's THAT for changing the tao?
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Jul 17, 2002, 8:37 AM
Post #3 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
If I didn't trust gear, I would free-solo, or I wouldn't climb at all...
It's not the gear I don't trust. It's the rock and the ground I don't trust to not hurt!
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Jul 17, 2002, 9:09 AM
Post #4 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
I'm fine in the Valley, trusting the rock, the gear, my partner, the weather, etc.
What I don't trust is the schedule of the Ranger Cops as they scope through Camp V, looking for people camping in their cars. I mean, most of the time they're done by 11 pm, and all of a sudden they're bright-lighting the Camp at 1 am. Do we really have to stay up that late drinking beer with the Curry employees in their little tent cabins??? How do they expect us to be upstanding citizens at 8 am at the free coffee counter after a night like that? Not everybody can hook up with the hot chicks. The Feds should cut some slack. As soon as I find out how to lock the Bear Box from the inside, I've got the ultimate place to stay.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jul 18, 2002, 4:14 AM
Post #5 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
Little tip apollo: don't show up too late-little tipsy and try that trick. It would be quite the story to wake up in a dumpster in the AM!
Climbed in a couple of those as a youth (canning), no way Jose, never again:-)Not unless my nasel passages stop working.
The motto there is that I am trainable and only LOOK like an idiot!! Better to hang out at Degnans and ask the elderly if they are done with their sandwiches just before they toss them out.
Bill
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
Jul 18, 2002, 4:37 AM
Post #6 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
there is a differnce between trust and safe.
|
|
|
|
|
blindslap
Jul 18, 2002, 5:00 AM
Post #7 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
|
I trust my placements but sometimes don't trust the rock. It's usually solid granite so their are few instances where i'm worried.
i.e. Crappy placements
|
|
|
|
|
atg200
Jul 18, 2002, 5:13 AM
Post #8 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
|
Quote: there is a differnce between trust and safe.
is that similar to the difference between a good climber and a gumbie?
|
|
|
|
|
ktwo
Jul 24, 2002, 6:59 PM
Post #9 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 443
|
Here where I climb, I can't trust the gear. I climb in soft sandstone, which essentially makes trad a no-fall situation. You place the gear in the hopes that if you do fall, it will slow you down.
|
|
|
|
|
redzit
Jul 25, 2002, 12:27 AM
Post #10 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 195
|
I don't really fully trust anything, especialy after my dad have the rock break that was holding the piece he was resting on, it threw me back and he almost ended up with a broken ankle. I think not fully trusting things is good, it keeps you aware and always on your toes. Besides, who knows what happens to gear when they are transported to the store. even black diamond admits, on average, 2 out of a thousand biners it makes will not standed up to their weighted strength. And all it takes is one biner to fail to kill you.
I don't know if any of you are familiar with a bath tub curve. think of a line graph with time on the X axis and # of failures on the Y axis. now draw the side profile of a bath tub. When goods are first tested, the failure rate is relatively high. then as the weak ones drop out, the failure rate is very low for a long time, until the pieces star ageing and start to fail. for this reason i do not trust new gear with much faith.
the only thing I really trust is my own two feet on the gravel of the parking lot.
|
|
|
|
|
hangdoggypound
Jul 25, 2002, 1:11 AM
Post #11 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2002
Posts: 169
|
Nah, I have a rack of a retail value of $1000 or so. It clanks around and sounds real cool...especially the four fig-8 belay devices and sets of hexes.
I just like the way it looks and sounds when I walk around. "Cause I'm a rock climber-baby."
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Jul 25, 2002, 3:19 AM
Post #12 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
I don't trust cams as much as passive gear. I have seen too many walk or pop, but it happens to everything. So far, I haven't had any problems with my nuts and hexes, but every time you climb you play the odds, don't you?
That, and a lot of bolts. I'm always weary on bolts. Whether they are too old, the rock is bad, were they installed correctly, how much abuse, etc.
Either way, I use everything I can.
I trust gear more than not using it.
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
k9rocko
Jul 25, 2002, 3:28 AM
Post #13 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2002
Posts: 195
|
I don't trust the ground.... but I trust the gear. I use lots of gear. The more springs, gears and whistles.... the better.
I climb better once I realize this important fact. The gear will save me, if I use it right. Using it right is the most important thing.
That way, I will hopefully never know if the ground should be trusted. Somehow, I think decking is ALWAYS bad.
|
|
|
|
|
old_school
Jul 25, 2002, 3:30 AM
Post #14 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2001
Posts: 259
|
Being paranoid saves your hide.
|
|
|
|
|
topher
Jul 28, 2002, 4:16 PM
Post #15 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
|
it depends would a i trust a #1 rp, NO!!! if i hade a big run out and nothing else would go i would still place it. After watching the movie hard grite i trust gear way more!! they put 2 cams in the middle of the pitch and where taking near fall factor one falls on them. the thing with gear is that you can always trust it but, i would rather have that #1 rp then nothing.......
|
|
|
|
|
the_elk
Jul 29, 2002, 4:20 AM
Post #16 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2002
Posts: 200
|
I never completely trusted my gear until I had a good winger on a #3 walnut. Then I trusted. I always felt pretty good about my placements becuase I did a lot of 2nding before I lead, so I knew how gear was placed, and climbed with better climbers who would always let me know how good or bad my gear was.
Cams, hexes, nuts, they're all good if you place them correctly!!!!! I emphasise the importance of placing gear correctly. A not so intelligent and highly unteachable mate of mine had 5 of his 7 peices pop on a climb recently, and one of them was a bolt, the other he had already fallen on twice and was tightly wedged in the rock. He hit the ground, I flew up into the air and into the wall which I was practically wedged against anyway, stopped only by the anchor. He fell about 8 meters, fortunately not hitting the ground at full speed, and he walked away. (although it was suspected he fractured his ankle.)
PLACE YOUR GEAR CORRECTLY! He learnt his lesson the hard way, after years of being informed of some of his dodgy placement.
Lesson learnt: I don't climb with him any more! Sometimes it's just not worth the risk, especially if the person isn't willing to listen to advice.
[ This Message was edited by: the_elk on 2002-07-28 21:22 ]
|
|
|
|
|
petelasko
Jul 29, 2002, 4:42 AM
Post #17 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2002
Posts: 25
|
I trust my gear. I've never seen a bolt pull out, or a carabiner break, but I mostly climb in pretty well established areas, and I try not to fall on hangers that spin.
|
|
|
|
|
bulldog
Aug 3, 2002, 3:18 PM
Post #18 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2001
Posts: 103
|
I completely trust my gear.
What I don't always trust is in my ability to place it in an optimal spot.
So far, so good. But I still dread the day when I have to "learn the hard way".
Bulldog
|
|
|
|
|
climber_chick
Aug 7, 2002, 1:18 AM
Post #19 of 19
(3452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2001
Posts: 278
|
watch the movie cliff hanger-I'm sure sylvester stalone didn't trust that gear anymore! yah whatever, lol
|
|
|
|
|
|
