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oldsalt
Jul 19, 2005, 11:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
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I was giving a top belay from two bolts on Table Rock (NC) last week when one of my partners arrived at the anchor and commented, "So I only rate one anchor point?"
I think the anchor was safe and redundant, as described here:
There were two closed rings at the top of Jim Dandy pitch #1. I clipped a sling to the left ring and two draws with opposite/opposed biners to the right ring. Then I ran the rope through the draws and down to an ATC on my harness. All references to "draws" that follow refer to this pair with correctly aligned biners.
I count two anchor points each:
Me: my sling to the left ring and the climbing rope off of my harness through the two draws on the right ring.
Partner: rope off the two draws on the right ring to my harness, and my sling to the left ring via my ATC and harness.
If the left ring goes, we are both attached to the rope via the draws on the right ring. If the right ring goes, I'm on a sling and he's on me via the harness and ATC.
I should add that I was clipped in with a sling to each ring while building the anchors, and I released the second sling in favor of the rope/ring to minimize confusion.
Safe?
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freeskicolorado
Jul 20, 2005, 12:10 AM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Apr 19, 2004
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Perhaps I'm misunderstanding.... to the right ring, did you only have the rope running from ATC through draws and down to the climber, or were you also tied in with a short section at the end of the rope (ie, rope tied to harness, short section, figure 8 on a bight or overhand clipped to the draws/right ring).
I'll openly admit my n00bness, but I'd would say the former would not be entirely safe, but the latter would. My reasoning is if the left side failed in the former case, then you would only be connected to the anchor by essentially a pulley between your ATC and the other climber. While you would still be connected to the anchor in such a way that neither climber could fall all the way to the ground, there would not be anything to keep you anywhere close to the anchor either, meaning you could both end up hanging from opposite ends of the rope somewhere below the anchor. It's similar to what would happen if you didn't clip the keeper cable on your belay device; the device would still function, but could potentially move up the rope away from your harness.
The latter scenario would prevent this problem.
Correct me if I'm wrong?
-YoCO
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2005, 12:14 AM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Safe? It's ok, so it's 'safe.' But not what I'd call ideal. The problem with your system is that if your bolt blows, and you get pulled into the other bolt, you might lose control of the belay... which now also happens to be the only thing holding you on. Yikes!
You would have been better off clipping both bolts, and redirecting off one bolt through a single quickdraw, instead of two.
Myself, I problably would have clove hitched both bolts with the rope, and redirected off a single draw. Or the atomic clip.
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jt512
Jul 20, 2005, 12:55 AM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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No. You are only connected to the anchor at one point, the left one. If the left piece fails, you and your partner aren't actually connected to the anchor at all, and f you lose control of the belay, you both die.
You should have tied in to both bolts via separate, equalized runners; a cordellete; or with your rope, using an equalizing knot. You can belay off your harness, directly off the anchor (both anchor points is best), or redirect thru the anchor (again, both points is far better than just one).
-Jay
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cjstudent
Jul 20, 2005, 1:23 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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In reply to: I was giving a top belay from two bolts on Table Rock (NC) last week when one of my partners arrived at the anchor and commented, "So I only rate one anchor point?" I think the anchor was safe and redundant, as described here: There were two closed rings at the top of Jim Dandy pitch #1. I clipped a sling to the left ring and two draws with opposite/opposed biners to the right ring. Then I ran the rope through the draws and down to an ATC on my harness. All references to "draws" that follow refer to this pair with correctly aligned biners. I count two anchor points each: Me: my sling to the left ring and the climbing rope off of my harness through the two draws on the right ring. Partner: rope off the two draws on the right ring to my harness, and my sling to the left ring via my ATC and harness. If the left ring goes, we are both attached to the rope via the draws on the right ring. If the right ring goes, I'm on a sling and he's on me via the harness and ATC. I should add that I was clipped in with a sling to each ring while building the anchors, and I released the second sling in favor of the rope/ring to minimize confusion. Safe?
Not really safe. I have climbed that route many times, and those bolts are really bomber...it would be a shame for someone to get hurt on that route due to anchor construction problems. You should have equalized those bolts to make a power point. I would have clipped myself into this power point, and also belayed the 2nd straight off this power point using a munter hitch, cinch, or reverso.
That way both of you are on a redudant anchor. Plus clipping draws together to make an anchor is generally bad in my book...thats too many non-locking carabiners to come unclipped.
When making an anchor think, solid, redundant, equalized, and no extensions. I would also encourage the use of locking carabiners if you dont use those.
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gunkiemike
Jul 20, 2005, 1:35 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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You anchor was not redundant, equalized or non-extending. Go back to SRENE 101.
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