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Need Help Learning Hard Aid Not just Clean Aid
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climbingcowboy


Jul 18, 2002, 12:22 AM
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Need Help Learning Hard Aid Not just Clean Aid
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 Ive done a fair share of clean aiding on things that I new would go clean, but how do I start to learn to aid the other way(copperheads,pins,hammer)? Is there anywhere in my area to practice this, I dont want to screw up the rock on good climbs while learning I've alredy read alot of Piton Petes info which is helpful but could someone simplfy the gear needed for this (hammer(which), rurps, heads, beaks, pitons, etc.)and all other helpful info?
THANKS Cowboy


hollyclimber


Jul 18, 2002, 8:23 AM
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My ideas...
1. Find someone to help teach you. That is always a good idea. The internet is no substitute for flesh and blood.
2. There is always a place to practice, because you only want crap rock to practice on and you can find crap rock a lot easier than real climbing rock.

Good luck..

hgb


glockaroo


Jul 18, 2002, 8:44 AM
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Once you get an idea of how to use the nailing toys, set up a fixed dynamic rope over a small crap cliff that has some aidable features. Be sure that if you weight the rope it won't be loaded over any edges or knock off loose rock.

With the fixed dynamic rope as your belay, aid around on the rock and tie in short to your fixed rope each time you move up. Use a grigri along with a backup knot.

This way you can move all over the place making dicey aid placements and never worry about falling more than a foot or so. Once you get the hang of things try the most ludicrous aid tricks you can think of. You'll be surprised at how often they'll hold your weight.



passthepitonspete


Jul 18, 2002, 9:57 AM
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Go find yourself a piece of rock somewhere that nobody climbs on, and nobody ever will climb on.

This could be a boulder, even.

The farther away you are from an established climbing area, the better.

Practise placing heads, then get on the things in your aiders and bounce test the livin' bejeepers out of them!

Learn how to paste those little buggers til they're "welder", dude!

Heads are amazingly secure, and not that difficult to learn.

You can practise nailing the same way - just remember that the pitons will scar the crack permanently! Remember to try different placements, and learn how to use tie-offs and keeper loops properly.

You can do the same for pitons, too.

Hooking you can practise most anywhere! You can traverse along the base of a cliff a few feet off the ground. This is a superb way to learn how to hook! It's much harder to hook horizontally than vertically.

You can also hook on toprope, or lead a sport route on hooks, like I did at Stu's place in Nelson Rocks.

Finally, when it comes to learning aid climbing, I highly recommend you solo. Cleaning your own pieces will teach you more than you can ever imagine, and soloing develops great confidence.

Aid soloing is very very easy because you are moving slowly. You don't need to know much more than how to tie a clove hitch and a backup knot.

Make sure you have all the right stuff, too.

If I weren't so lazy, I'd link that post in, the one about stuff you need like adjustable daisies and all, but - well, you know.......


spike


Jul 18, 2002, 10:45 AM
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Climbingcowboy,
You have a great Big Wall Practice Climbing area 45 min. east of you!!! Go to www.bigwall.com and select TOPOS & BETA, scroll down to Southern California Aid Guide. Then click on Riverside County and look at Riverside Quarry. Easy stuff from C1 bolt ladders to hard A4. Granite rock !!! Old mining quarry --- watch out for loose stuff --- climbers have been killed aid climbing there. If you want to nail, hook, place heads --- do it there!!!
SPIKE


socalclimber


Jul 21, 2002, 5:55 AM
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A couple of cautionary notes regarding the Quarry. First off, it's located about a mile from hell, be careful of the neihborhood, lots of gangs. Don't be there after dark. Also, the place is expando city, wear a helmet. Have fun.

Robert


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