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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:09 PM
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I have climbed in yosemite many times and have never made the effort to get all the way out to snake dike...I probably wouldn't have considered it until I set up a trip for me and my non climber girlfriend....I know it is very easy..like 5.7...but how easy is easy.
She has never climbed. So my question is...can a non-climber get through this with help from an experienced climber. I think absolutely, but I would like to hear some opinions on whether or not it is likely for her to be able to get through it without having me literaly haul her through sections...
I just want to know if it is as easy as I think it is. thanks.
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robdotcalm
Jul 20, 2005, 5:17 PM
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Common sense would indicate that if you want to maintain your boy/girlfrend relationship intact, you start on something shorter, easier, and with less of an approach.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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areuinclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:21 PM
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physically i think she could do it. the only problem i would see is the traverse on P1. its the hardest section of the climb. the rest is cruiser all the way......easy. it is a somewhat exposed climb and the endless slabs after the 8th pitch might give her a rise if she isnt comfortable with exposure and such. the approach is a bitch and a half so make sure she is up for it.
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tahquitztwo
Jul 20, 2005, 5:23 PM
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I agree with Robdotcom's comment. I am an older woman climber and I've done several routes in Yosemite with friends (no big walls) and I have known several folks who climb well, but for whatever reason, ended up having an epic doing Snake Dike. It is a long approach, very exposed and not exactly what I would suggest for someone who has never climbed before. :shock:
There are several other fun routes in the valley that are considered as "easy" as Snake Dike and certainly much better on the approach and route itself for a beginning climber.
Good luck and climb safe. 8^)
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renohandjams
Jul 20, 2005, 5:25 PM
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Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs.
I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout.
Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout?
My 2 cents
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j_ung
Jul 20, 2005, 5:25 PM
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I'm with .calm; set your sights lower... like toproping.
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shakylegs
Jul 20, 2005, 5:26 PM
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I say go for it. I mean, how hard can a multi-pitch 5.7 with a long approach be for a first-time climber?
The fact that you've never been on it yourself just adds a bit of piquant.
I'm dying to read the TR afterward.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 5:31 PM
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In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents
hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4.
70 feet is a standard runout on that climb. Meaning, you will have multiple 70 foot runouts. If you're not mentally stron enough with your leading, you will freeze up, because the exposure seems worse than it actually is. I was totally comfortable leading on Snake Dike, and would have been fine with leading any of the pitches on it. Matt (areuinclimber) won the toss for the super long runout. Lucky bastard.
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kalcario
Jul 20, 2005, 5:38 PM
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*She has never climbed. So my question is...can a non-climber get through this with help from an experienced climber. I think absolutely, but I would like to hear some opinions on whether or not it is likely for her to be able to get through it without having me literaly haul her through sections...*
I'd say yes, but she'd better be a damn strong hiker, it's 16 miles with 8000' of altitude change...you could break it up by bivvying in Little Yo Valley though.
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rastafari
Jul 20, 2005, 5:40 PM
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I say don't take her....people who are not used to climb such heights can freeze really fast. U don't want that to happen
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carbo
Jul 20, 2005, 5:43 PM
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I would choose something else for a first time climber. Maybe something like Cathedral peak SE buttress. Shorter approach, 5 pitches and with less exposure.
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: Common sense would indicate that if you want to maintain your boy/girlfrend relationship intact, you start on something shorter, easier, and with less of an approach. Cheers, Rob.calm
haha,...smart man
who seems to have some experince with relationships. I actually appreciate this. ha!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:51 PM
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guys..my competency on the climb is not an issue...I was going to free solo it with my buddy last time I was there. She will not be doing any runouts and the approach will be no problem for her....
I have been told by friends..who don't have phone or email unfortunately...that there are two 5.7 moves and the rest is hiking...
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: I agree with Robdotcom's comment. I am an older woman climber and I've done several routes in Yosemite with friends (no big walls) and I have known several folks who climb well, but for whatever reason, ended up having an epic doing Snake Dike. It is a long approach, very exposed and not exactly what I would suggest for someone who has never climbed before. :shock: There are several other fun routes in the valley that are considered as "easy" as Snake Dike and certainly much better on the approach and route itself for a beginning climber. Good luck and climb safe. 8^)
okay...I appreciate this comment ..thanks for your input. Something my friends would have neglected to tell me because it would not have been an issue for me was that it was very exposed...
I will look for something else a little less committing for her. any suggestions...but it has to be good stuff!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:03 PM
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thanks for the input...I am not worried about snake dike at all as goes my leading it. The exposure could definitely be an issure for her and if it is so exposed then I will steer her towards something else. Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated.
Any other suggestions for really good( cause I have to climb it too) but really easy climbs in the valley... I think I am definitely going to take her up "after 6"....anything else??
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renohandjams
Jul 20, 2005, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4. |
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2005, 6:06 PM
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You could take her up royal arches. Great exposure with really easy climbing. Short approach. 15 pitches, with only 3 going at .7.
The descent might be a problem though. Either many rappels, or a trek down North Dome Gully.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: thanks for the input...I am not worried about snake dike at all as goes my leading it. The exposure could definitely be an issure for her and if it is so exposed then I will steer her towards something else. Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated. Any other suggestions for really good( cause I have to climb it too) but really easy climbs in the valley... I think I am definitely going to take her up "after 6"....anything else??
After 6 might be too tricky for someone who has never climbed before. Have you led it before? The crack can be slick in places, and for someone who has never crack climbed before, she will definitely have a hard time. For sure not a good introductory climb in Yosemite. I have been told, and I probably agree with this, that After 6 is the hardest 5.7 in the Valley.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4. Wow, 140 feet? Doesn't that mean a 280 foot fall if you loose your cool right before you clip into the last bolt? I'm not very familiar with what a 5.4 actually looks like. For some reason I imagine something straight up with easy hand moves, but isn't it pretty sloped? How many degrees? 80? 60?
I would say the runout probably averages betwee 65 and 75 degrees. It's climbing up a knobby dike, with bomber hand and foot holds. If you're worried about the fall on it, you're not ready. Definitely not something you want to lose your cool on.
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tradclimbr
Jul 20, 2005, 6:20 PM
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I can't recommend taking her up Royal Arches. That thing has some big exposure. I got stuck behind a party for a couple of pitches starting on P9. The guy's girlfriend had been climbing about 6 times before RA and she was gripped, crying, freaked out by the exposure, and all together having a shitty day. We started late figuring we'd cruise the route, but it took so long for us and the other parties waiting behind them to get the last few pitches done we almost had an epic rappel. (It was the last time I did a multi pitch route without throwing a Tikka in my chalkbag pouch.)
It got dark while we were doing the last couple of raps, when we heard that same woman let out a blood curdling scream from the cliffs way up above us. We found out the next day that something gave out and she dropped a couple of feet. Not much, but she got even more scared than she was before. And they lost one of their headlamps so he had to leave her in the dark at each of the rap stations. Somehow I don't think she enjoyed any of it. I doubt she ever went climbing again and I bet she ditched her boyfriend afterwords. Why don't you try out some mellow stuff at, say Lover's Leap. Or like someone else said, Cathedral Peak. Unless you want to ditch her...
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muskie
Jul 20, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Not sure if I'd recommend this for a first time out for your girlfriend there. The crux of the climb is the first two pitches which are friction traverses. Both of which can be pretty scary especially if someone is not used to how to use their rock shoes.
If you do decide to do it I'd recommend that you feel pretty confident risking a nice swing on the first pitch so that your gf doesn't have to. A small cam can be placed(just below the small pine tree) before you do the traverse on the first pitch(yellow or green alien not sure which one). Then I wouldn't recommend trying to get any more pro in for the rest of the traverse since the actual pitch ends nearly straight above the traverse. This way you won't risk you gf taking a potentially frighting swing if her feet pop on the traverse.
On the second pitch make sure that you do not pass the bolt that protects the one tricky move just before the two bolt anchor on the actual dike. A group ahead of me missed this bolt once and it proved to produce alot of cursing and a mini epic. It kinda blends in with the rock so make sure that you look for it when you are standing on the nice ledge that is below and to the right of the traverse. Once you get to the second anchor, you are on the actual salmon colored dike which feels kind of like a huge hold at a rock gym.
The remaining pitches are extremely run out but are fairly below vertical with good holds. It is possible to find protection in between bolts by dropping the occasional tricam in the holes you'll find in the dike. Over all the runout sections are not that scary since it is pretty straight forward and relatively easy climbing. I don't think your girlfriend will have a problem with these pitches at all since she isn't the one that has to worry about the long falls. She might, however, have a problem with the first two pitches since i think starting on 5.7 polished slab might be a little stiff for someone's first time in rock shoes.
Like the other post said, you might want to start her out on some tr or something that isn't such a long hike and allows for you to get out of the elements since it'll probably take you longer then you think. Check supertopos.com for an excellent topo of the route too. Well, hopefully that helps and if you decide to do it, have a good time.
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tadam2000
Jul 20, 2005, 6:26 PM
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Notwithstanding the earlier comments regarding the approach, exposure, etc., do you really want to be belayed on a runout pitch, no matter how easy it might be -- or on any pitch for that matter -- by someone who's never done it?
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:31 PM
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For her first time in the Valley, I'm thinking that The Cow (any variation) on Glacier Point Apron would be a good first climb for her. Very easy climbing, with good views, and a little tricky traverse on the second pitch for spice if you want.
Definitely get helmets though. It's famous for rock fall. Then, if she does well with that, hop on The Grack just to the right,
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kalcario
Jul 20, 2005, 6:35 PM
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*do you really want to be belayed on a runout pitch, no matter how easy it might be -- or on any pitch for that matter -- by someone who's never done it?*
Taking leader falls on Snake Dike is not an option, so the belayer hardly matters. "Gee I wonder if my belayer will hold this 140' cheese-grater fall...".
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:36 PM
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oh totally...Royal arches..we just soloed that when it was soaking wet in may...what a different climbing experience that was...
Thats gonna be the one...it should be real dry in early september...right??
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