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sausalito
Jul 20, 2005, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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I will be up there with my wife in august. I am going to avoid trying to climb on the weekends from the info I have gathered here. I am comfortable on most 5.7 trad (I have onsighted harder and backed off easier so I know the number game is tricky....) but in general I am good at 5.7. I will be climbing more laid back stuff on this trip. Here are my questions after reading all the google info I could come up with and buying the Todd Swain book: 1) on Easy Overhang can I walk out on top or will I have to rap? If a rap is mandatory would my wife have to pass a knot or is it fairly straight forward/one rope? (I am trying to avoid a crappy rap situation as I have often found that many problems arise from the rap when climbers are in unfamiliar terrain..... must keep this trip all about the fun so more can be planned!) 2) What easier/laid back climbs (i know its all relative... "5.4" or below...) that are at least two pitches have bomber belay ledges/stations/gear placement. Not worried about a fall but I want my wife to be more than comfortable on the ledge since she will be chilling there by herself and belaying from anything other than the ground or top of the cliff will be a new game for her. 3) I would appreciate any precise (I have a ton of general info...) information regarding a) good easy routes that can be walked off from the top b) good easy routes that have great belay stations c) as specific as you want to get is cool with me d) any extra info that you think would be helpful..... I plan on scouting out the area on sunday and climbing on monday and tuesday. I am completely cool with doing all 5.2/5.3 stuff so I will be climbing VERY comfortably within my limits. I want to keep this FUN and chill. More about time with my wife than trying to send something. I am just stressing that since the search I did for past posts yeilded a lot of results saying "get a guide book" and "the gunks are sandbagged". I appreciate the info and it has been noted but its not really what I am looking for with this post. thanks r
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taino
Jul 20, 2005, 6:49 PM
Post #2 of 14
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: I will be up there with my wife in august. I am going to avoid trying to climb on the weekends from the info I have gathered here. I am comfortable on most 5.7 trad (I have onsighted harder and backed off easier so I know the number game is tricky....) but in general I am good at 5.7. I will be climbing more laid back stuff on this trip. Here are my questions after reading all the google info I could come up with and buying the Todd Swain book: 1) on Easy Overhang can I walk out on top or will I have to rap? If a rap is mandatory would my wife have to pass a knot or is it fairly straight forward/one rope? (I am trying to avoid a crappy rap situation as I have often found that many problems arise from the rap when climbers are in unfamiliar terrain..... must keep this trip all about the fun so more can be planned!) Yes, you can walk off - with a class-4 scramble for the final 15 feet. Easily done, even in hiking boots. If your partner doesn't like the look of the class-4 terrain, it's very easy to rig a simple anchor in a convenient crack and lower them to the ground on belay, then pull the gear and follow.
In reply to: 2) What easier/laid back climbs (i know its all relative... "5.4" or below...) that are at least two pitches have bomber belay ledges/stations/gear placement. Not worried about a fall but I want my wife to be more than comfortable on the ledge since she will be chilling there by herself and belaying from anything other than the ground or top of the cliff will be a new game for her. Take your pick: Gelsa (5.4), Beginner's Delight (5.3), Northern Pillar (5.3), Minty (5.3), Three Pines (5.3 - currently closed due to vultures nesting; might be closed during your trip), Betty (5.3), Yum Yum Yab Yum (5.3), Tipsy Trees (5.3)... many, if not most, Gunks routes have natural ledges that are commonly used as belay spots. It would be much easier for you to look through the guidebook, choose a handful of routes, and ask about those in specific than for us to list all the routes that meet your requirements.
In reply to: 3) I would appreciate any precise (I have a ton of general info...) information regarding a) good easy routes that can be walked off from the top b) good easy routes that have great belay stations c) as specific as you want to get is cool with me d) any extra info that you think would be helpful..... Check your PMs.
In reply to: I plan on scouting out the area on sunday and climbing on monday and tuesday. I am completely cool with doing all 5.2/5.3 stuff so I will be climbing VERY comfortably within my limits. I want to keep this FUN and chill. More about time with my wife than trying to send something. I am just stressing that since the search I did for past posts yeilded a lot of results saying "get a guide book" and "the gunks are sandbagged". I appreciate the info and it has been noted but its not really what I am looking for with this post. thanks r Good idea. T
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curt
Jul 20, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Although some Gunks routes (more all the time) have convenient rap anchors, you can easily walk off from the top of ALL gunks routes. That's the way we used to do things--back in the day. 8^) Curt
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taino
Jul 20, 2005, 7:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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I thought you hardmen just downclimbed stuff like Son of Easy Overhang, in hiking boots, with full packs, in pitch darkness, without headlamps, carrying a 12-pack. My images of you all, are blown. :wink: T
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sausalito
Jul 20, 2005, 7:11 PM
Post #5 of 14
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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thanks so much for the helpful information. I was expecting the worse! This is going to sound lame but how do I check my "pm's"? Again thanks for the info. I will post some pictures when we get back.
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taino
Jul 20, 2005, 7:13 PM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: thanks so much for the helpful information. I was expecting the worse! This is going to sound lame but how do I check my "pm's"? Again thanks for the info. I will post some pictures when we get back. At the very top of the page, on the beige bar, you'll see - slightly left of center - words that say either "No new messages" or "X new messages" (X standing for the actual number). Click on those words if you have new messages. That will jump you into your Private Message Inbox, where you will find your message(s) waiting for you. T
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kimmyt
Jul 20, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 4546
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At the top of your screen will be a tan bar with three things written in blue. One will inform you that you have: 'X New Messages'. Just click on this and you'll get taken to your inbox. K.
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skateman
Jul 20, 2005, 7:16 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186
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If you get a chance, try "high exposure" (5.6+). There is a rap station just to the climbers right of the route. I pretty sure you can get down with one 60M rope. Yum yum yab yum, gelsa (loose rock on P3), horseman (5.5) are all good fun as well. Enjoy!
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pud
Jul 20, 2005, 7:17 PM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Jul 5, 2005
Posts: 59
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High Exposure (two raps on a 60m) is an easy route and has a comfortable huge ledge for the second pitch, great place to have lunch and check the view, especially in the fall. while i haven't done it, my wife soloed three pines and liked it. Shockley's ceiling, Horseman, Laurel, Ken's crack are all below 5.7, in close proximity, easy and fun with good gear and straight foward raps. "Apoplexy" is nearby if you want to push your leading ability a little (5.9) a stellar route with good gear. mid week is defintely a good idea...
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taino
Jul 20, 2005, 7:17 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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High Exposure is overrated. A brilliant route, yes, but not the best in the Gunks. Neither is Disneyland. Madame Grunnenbaum's Wulst, however... T
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maimed
Jul 20, 2005, 7:39 PM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
Posts: 104
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I climbed Disneyland this past Sunday and I can't bring a single coherent memory of P2 to mind...
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curt
Jul 20, 2005, 8:25 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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Perhaps coherence isn't one of your strengths? Curt
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phaedrus
Jul 20, 2005, 8:34 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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maimed
Jul 20, 2005, 9:13 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
Posts: 104
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Head Injury http://tinyurl.com/d888n
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