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kachoong
Jul 6, 2005, 2:41 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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One of my all-time faves is Cornerstone Rib, without a doubt one of the best grade 14 (5.6) routes in the world. It ascends a spectacular rib of rock for 600 feet, mostly vertical, up Crater Bluff in the Warrumbungles, NSW, Australia. It's trad, very exposed, has some of the best views ever and can leave you feeling quite insignificant....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57034
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=53455
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nthusiastj
Jul 18, 2005, 7:33 PM
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I just did Handcracker Direct 10a in Eldorado yesterday. That thing is SOOO freakin sweet. It's a must do in the canyon.
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berkly
Jul 18, 2005, 7:52 PM
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The best in my resume would have to be the south face of the petit. Crux through the summit made it the most enjoyable climb Ive done.
Second may be tabula rasa 5.10c out at the monestary. Great climb with great scenery. Bourbon Street 5.8 and Amazon Woman 5.10b out at Quartz Mt. come to mind also.
Trip report of our entire trip here
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/93020
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crackmd
Jul 18, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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Have to add one since I last posted to this topic last September. Shune's Buttress in Zion is 7-pitches, all of them no worse than awesome. The finger/thinhands pitch a few pitches from the top may be the best pitch I have ever been on. It climbed a perfect crack through a roof to more perfect crack, all with El Cap like exposure. As good as the North Face of the Rostrum.
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mburke225
Jul 18, 2005, 8:59 PM
Post #105 of 126
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
Posts: 119
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High Exposure- Gunks
Candy Corner- Seneca
Neither route hard by any standards, but the pucker factor was intense.
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n.e.climber
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Jul 18, 2005, 10:01 PM
Post #106 of 126
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two come to mind at the moment, both sport routes, sorry to all you trad junkies...prime climb at rumney, nh, .11b, great moves, sustained, long, technical route (at the wall orange crush) amazing route and also "a day in the life" at red rocks, nv at the gallery wall, also .11b but probably more like a .11c, amazing moves, crimpy technical, and while you're there, climb yak crak, .11d, also probably .11b though, really fun, not too hard just pumpy. anyone climbed those? they're incredible.
scott
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billiebob
Jul 18, 2005, 10:09 PM
Post #107 of 126
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Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 32
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West: Grand Wall at Squamish, with Freeway Lite (5.11a) a close second
East: Enduro Man, the best route at the Gunks.
Southwest: Born of Water on Baboquivari Peak in southern AZ, or User Friendly (5.9) on Leviathan Dome, near Tucson
Yosemite: Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday
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jacobbelsher
Jul 18, 2005, 11:29 PM
Post #108 of 126
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Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 147
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Humanality. four pitches at 6b. Tonsai beach
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climbingbums
Jul 18, 2005, 11:41 PM
Post #109 of 126
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Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 117
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Scarface, Indian Creek, Scarface Buttress, 5.11c.
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mesomorf
Jul 19, 2005, 12:16 AM
Post #110 of 126
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V 5.10a, ~3000 ft., Chouinard/Beckey Route, South Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada.
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bongowurm
Jul 19, 2005, 12:49 AM
Post #111 of 126
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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Goodro's Wall, 10c, Big Cottonwood Canyon
First 5.10 in the country, no less!!
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dbarandiaran
Jul 19, 2005, 1:25 AM
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my BEST climb has got to be the Bastille crack in ELDO... btw it is 5.7 not 5.8...anyway i have climbed it three times now, and would gladly do it x number of times more
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charley
Jul 19, 2005, 2:02 AM
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In reply to: my BEST climb has got to be the Bastille crack in ELDO... btw it is 5.7 not 5.8...anyway i have climbed it three times now, and would gladly do it x number of times more
I guess you don't bother with the guidebooks. It used to be 5,7, then 5.7+, and several years ago it was a 5.8 in some newer guidebooks. To you it may always be 5.7.
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johnathon78
Jul 19, 2005, 2:16 AM
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Posts: 340
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Dresden Corner (sp?), 5.11d, Bridge Buttress, NRG, W.VA.
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vivalargo
Jul 19, 2005, 4:43 AM
Post #116 of 126
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 1512
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Bob Locke Memorial Buttress on Watkins, totally different than anything else I've ever climbed. Close second, Lost Arrow Tip free. Short but unique. Distant third, Mother Earth, Middle C. A real piece of work, that one.
JL
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sogwap7
Jul 22, 2005, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 47
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The best route ehh???? It would probably be the blue route at the gym. I think its prolly like a 5.6 TR that i lead with full gear placement and at the crux its got a really hard A4 jug hold. it was pretty sustained.
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cagdbikeclimb
Jul 22, 2005, 7:46 PM
Post #118 of 126
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Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 81
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Over the Hill, Eldorado Canyon
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le_bruce
Jul 22, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 60
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Multi Trad:
The Martyr, outside Colorado Springs, 5.9 3-pitch stunning cracks, remote, isolated, exposed.
Imaginate, Campanille Esloveno, Argentina, 5.10, 5-pitch granite needle, steep, so exposed, patagonian Andes spilling off to n. and s. horizons, volcan tronador just west of you...
The Vampire, Taquitz, 5.11 - Can't be described. Make sure to lead the Bat Crack, and the amazing flake pitch. But pass off the flake-exit to your partner if you know what's good for you.
Orange Flake, JTree, 5.8, because I've never suffered as much.
Short Trad:
Sacherer Cracker, Yos - 5.10, stellar fingers-hands-offwidth progression. First time on El Cap granite. Holy classic.
Bishop's Terrace, Yos - 5.8, peaceful and idyllic spot if you get it alone.
Tea Crack, Santa Barbara - 5.10 Freaky ass mantle.
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helmut
Jul 22, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
Posts: 87
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On Longs Peak I enjoyed Stettner's Ledges to Hornsby Direct Finish to Upper Kiener's and descending the Cables Route to the Camel Gully. I found it to be a wonderful tour of my favorite mountain. Unfortunately I'm not good enough to do the Diamond.
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clayman
Jul 27, 2005, 3:13 AM
Post #121 of 126
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 296
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whitney-gilman, cannon mtn.
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iclimbtoo
Jul 27, 2005, 4:02 AM
Post #122 of 126
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
Posts: 645
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In reply to: Tough call... Rewritten, 5.7, 4 pitches, in Eldo comes to mind. So does Bastille Crack, 5.8, also in Eldo.
Ditto. Those are the very two best climbs I've ever done. Bastille is amazing. Naked Edge is a close call as well.
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dobbsboy
Jul 27, 2005, 5:26 AM
Post #123 of 126
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
Posts: 40
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multipitch: 3rd Pillar of Dana (awesome), with Fine Jade just a nose behind.
singlepitch: clean and jerk in j-tree
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crotch
Jul 27, 2005, 5:47 AM
Post #124 of 126
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
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NNW Ridge, Parabola Peak
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renohandjams
Jul 27, 2005, 8:16 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
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Too bad it's hard to use all of this great data here. It would be nice if these could be compiled into a list to rank them from number one down. Then you can just glance at your state and see where the highest ranking climb is.
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