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6thlimb
Jul 24, 2005, 11:32 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2004
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The guide book only mentions "unprotected face moves" on the 4th pitch. I was wondering what kind of horror show are we talking about? Slim holds? How long of a run out is it? I know Dacker's like run outs, but I'm not quit as brave, yet.
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addiroids
Jul 24, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Grid bolt it.
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vegastradguy
Jul 24, 2005, 11:42 PM
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climbs with 'X' ratings on them tend to mean- if you fall, you die (or get damn close to death).... so, even if the moves are not all that hard, you're looking at a nasty fall if you do slip or a rock breaks, etc. [i'll caveat by saying i'm not familiar with the area, but i am familiar with general guidebook notations...]
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curt
Jul 25, 2005, 12:14 AM
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Of course, anyone who would fall on 5.7 deserves to die. :lol: Curt
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fishbelly
Jul 25, 2005, 1:44 AM
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If you have questions about 5.7 X ,Wallface is probly not a good place to look for the answer.
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 25, 2005, 1:50 AM
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daks rateings can be total Bs? it could be anything from 5.6 to 5.9 ??
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braaaaaaaadley
Jul 25, 2005, 2:28 AM
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Well if the 4th pitch is rated X then obviously you are not going to hit the ground if you fall... so if I were you go up there and look at the route and if you are solid at the grade then give it a shot. If it looks sketchy dont. If you are not solid at the grade don't. If there are any large ledges on pitches 1 2 or 3 don't (if you think falling is a possibilty). With that being said go climb! Chances are the "X" rating is there for a reason.
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areuinclimber
Jul 25, 2005, 3:00 AM
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sac up and go for it.
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fishbelly
Jul 25, 2005, 1:28 PM
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I am not sure some of the people telling you to go for it have been to wallface. Have you. The hike out will be even longer with a self rescue. The farther off the road I climb the more I climb with in my comfort level. You give Pa. as your location. Have you ever been to White Rocks at Pond Bank and lead Thin Crack 5.7. A friend fell off it . It took 3 hour to get to the Chambersburg Hospital with a broken ankle. Wallface is a great destination. With more routes than Mental blocks. It also has a neat ghost story. We spent one night watching a small flame flicker on the face.
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davidio
Jul 25, 2005, 1:55 PM
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Well, the first thing to worry about is finding the climb. Mental Blocks is near the top of my must-do list, after just one attempt last summer. It's about 5-6 miles in, depending on which way you go. We hiked in last summer on a Friday night, to where we thought was near the cliff (it was after 8pm, and no moon that night). We woke up nice and early in the morning, and spent about 3 hours finding the beginning of the route, which was less than 1/2 mile from where we camped. The trail does NOT merely run along the base of the cliff, you must do some nasty blind bush-whacking to get there. We got on the first pitch, the first 40-50 feet are what some folks call "adventure climbing" (no distinct route, pulling on 1/2" shrubs, dirt, mank, all the hallmarks of a classic climb). To be fair, the second half of the pitch was excellent, the steep zig-zag 5.7 crack was a blast! BUT, by the time we both reached the first belay, we decided that it would be better to bail for time reasons, which turned out to be a good decision (we both had to be back that night, and a couple hour drive home after the hike out). Now that i know how to find the base of the climb, i am most certainly going back there this year to at least try and get a pitch or two more in. As for the 5.7 X pitch, i have good word from a local guide that halfway up that runout face is a crack that "totally takes 2 lobes of the smallest WC Zero, dude!!" So, i guess modern cams are taking all the fun out of it . . :lol: Best of luck!!
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taualum23
Jul 25, 2005, 1:58 PM
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I will only follow up by agreeing with those with a more cautionary vote instead of "sac up and go for it." If you have ANY hesitations on 5.7 X, consider one of the othor routes on Wallface, or perhaps find a different place to climb. The hike into Wallface is not short, and the immediate approach (and decent) can be tricky without injury in daylight. If you are stuck or hurt, especailly at night, and need to get off the wall (top or bottom), Wallface is truly wilderness clibmign, and you are on your own. There is no cell phone reception in the daks, and even after the hike out, it's a drive to the nearest aid. Now, if you are just asking due to an abundance of caution, go for it. The grades can be a bit sandbagged, or a bit soft in the daks, and the experience of climbing out there, totally on your own, is a great one, that is a far cry from the more popular areas in the Northeast. Have fun and be safe.
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davidio
Jul 25, 2005, 2:42 PM
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In reply to: davidio wrote: As for the 5.7 X pitch, i have good word from a local guide that halfway up that runout face is a crack that "totally takes 2 lobes of the smallest WC Zero, dude!!" I love that 2 lobes of the smallest zero is considered enought to negate the X factor. I apologize, i forgot to use my sarcasm marks around that statement. As a 190 lb climber, i do not consider 2 lobes of a cam i don't own to change the flavor of that climb at all. I'll be running that face out when i'm up there . . .
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taualum23
Jul 25, 2005, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: davidio wrote: As for the 5.7 X pitch, i have good word from a local guide that halfway up that runout face is a crack that "totally takes 2 lobes of the smallest WC Zero, dude!!" I love that 2 lobes of the smallest zero is considered enought to negate the X factor. I apologize, i forgot to use my sarcasm marks around that statement. As a 190 lb climber, i do not consider 2 lobes of a cam i don't own to change the flavor of that climb at all. I'll be running that face out when i'm up there . . . No, I'm sorry, I got the sarcasm. I was refering tot he guide who told you that. I think it is not worth the effort at all to wiggle in that piece. Nto sure, but isn't the run out in a 5.5. or 5.6 section of the climb?
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6thlimb
Jul 25, 2005, 3:05 PM
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OK I think i've made up my mind. I'm going to play it safe and go with Diagnol instead of Mental blocks. I weigh 230lbs, I'm not about to risk a huge wipper so far away from help. Thanks to all for the advice! Now, does anyone know of a SAFE descent from the top of Diagnol (even if it involves a little hiking). I really don't think I want to walk off and I have heard the Diagonal rap is a little scetchy.
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davidio
Jul 25, 2005, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 19, 2004
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In reply to: Nto sure, but isn't the run out in a 5.5. or 5.6 section of the climb? Couldn't tell you yet, as i haven't climbed that pitch, and i don't quite have the guidebook memorized yet .. . .
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tradnomad
Jul 25, 2005, 3:36 PM
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In reply to: Now, does anyone know of a SAFE descent from the top of Diagnol (even if it involves a little hiking). I really don't think I want to walk off and I have heard the Diagonal rap is a little scetchy. The rap was straightforward (and safe) when I did it (~3yrs ago). But, you don't want to rappel the route since it traverses, instead rap straight down from the top of the ramp. It should be 2 or three raps to the ground, I'd reccomend using a rappel backup (i.e. prussik) since you may have to do some searching around on ledges to find the rappel anchors. From what I've heard, the hike off is heinous!! TN
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fishbelly
Jul 25, 2005, 5:19 PM
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I have done the hike down. It cured any fears I had of multiple rappels in a new area. Almost cured me of doing something stupid every chance I got but not quite. One of old guide books states " save yourself a degrading experience and rap " very good advice. Unless you want to raise your bushwhacking capabilities a few notches.
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shakylegs
Jul 25, 2005, 5:27 PM
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Is the X on slab or is it steeper? I don't recall seeing the X described in the guide. The route's been on my list for a few years now, but I get put off by the route-finding aspect and aiding the roof.
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jackflash
Jul 25, 2005, 5:43 PM
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In reply to: Is the X on slab or is it steeper? I don't recall seeing the X described in the guide. The route's been on my list for a few years now, but I get put off by the route-finding aspect and aiding the roof. I haven't done the route, but according to the guide it's the slab on pitch three. "Unprotected face moves (5.7 x) lead to a belay at the short headwall."
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iceisnice
Jul 25, 2005, 9:53 PM
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great route, you will love it. when i did the slab pitch (which was the 4th pitch and the one i believe you are asking about) i mangaged to get in two solid nuts (small ones, not sure the exact size) in the whole pitch which was only about 100ft. i don't even think it deserved the 5.7 rating. more like a 5.6. don't stress about that pitch. it was pretty chill.
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6thlimb
Jul 26, 2005, 5:33 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2004
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ICEISNICE, Thanks for the confidence boost. I plan on spending a couple days at Wallface so maybe I will try Diagonal First then do Mental Blocks the next day. By the way, has anyone used CAMP Ball Nuts for thin cracks? I was wondering if they had any advantege over regular nuts.
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