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pete
May 15, 2002, 2:50 AM
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i know this has been posted a bunch, but i am still unclear...i am relatively new to the sport, and am gonna plunk down some cash for my own shoes...i have heard a lot of different things... currently i am considering basically lasportivas, including the focus, mythos, and cobra...my feet are fairly narrow and am generally a size 12 s.s. i want to get a shoe that is good all around (not specifically for indoors/outdoors,edging/smearing/etc.) i will be spending the majority of my time on indoor walls, but intend on doing some outdoor stuff. i am not too worried about the convenience of a slipper, nd would prefer a shoe that is not half my s.s. size, but doesnt fit like a s.s. i willt ake some pain, but dont want it to interfere w/ focusing on climbing...w/ that said is there any suggestions you can make about what shoe to get, or to consider...it would be much appreciated, thanks
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jdcox_9
May 15, 2002, 3:07 AM
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My first pair of shoes were Boreal Diablo's.
They are a great beginner's shoe and especially good all around.
And they are relatively comfortable too.
but that is just my foot, and everybody's feet are different, so try on a lot of shoes and see which one perform and don't crush the toes
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clam
May 15, 2002, 4:23 AM
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Yes, everyone's foot is different. I would, however, veture an opinion. I think the LaSportiva Mythos are an excellent, comfortable, all around shoe; excellent for a beginner. I see them around a lot these days at the gym and at the crag - a good sign. Shoes are always a dilemma. Try them on, use the wall at the store. I think you'll find the Mythos a very good shoe for what you're looking for. All the best.
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pete
May 15, 2002, 6:09 PM
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thanks for the tips...theyve been helpful
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jhump
May 15, 2002, 6:14 PM
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Those with narrow feet should avoid the cobra, they tend to fit wide.
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overlord
May 15, 2002, 6:59 PM
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don get slippes. get the hell away from them!!!
CLIMB ON
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codey
May 15, 2002, 7:06 PM
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why not they are cool
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offwidth
May 16, 2002, 1:34 AM
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Personally, I love the LaSportiva Mythos. I've worn out my first pair and am well into wearing out my second. But, I would not recomend them to someone just starting out.
I would recomend a stiffer shoe. Your feet have muscles in them that need to be eased into the rigors of climbing. I think it is better to use a stiff shoe at first until the feet get strong.
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earsen
Jul 18, 2002, 7:11 AM
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EB CANNIBALS are the shoe. A brand new all around performer that won't give you corns. Check out www.climbonrock.com for some awesome prices on gear!
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sharmagod
Jul 18, 2002, 12:18 PM
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Okay here goes....
I like the 5.10 spirals cause they are the only pair I have worn thus far.Its an all around shoe.
Truth is though....you have to find the shoe thats right for you.
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minos
Jul 18, 2002, 7:30 PM
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I used to agree that new climbers should get board lasted shoes (stiff soles) first so they don't have to worry about weak feet. However, I changed my mind about three months ago when my feet where sliding off a slabby route. I couldn't feel when my foot was on a hold and when it wasn't. And if you can't trust your feet, then it's time to go home. Face it, when you're new to climbing, you're not going to be climbing the 11c's with the tiny nubbins for feet. Generally, the holds are pretty big. So even with softer shoes, your feet should be strong enough. The only thing is, your feet may be tender and get sore from the foot holds poking at your feet. However, soft shoes open up so much more options when climbing. You can grab with your toes much easier on overhangs, smear like mad on slab, and actually feel when your foot is on that tiny little hold. Then again, maybe it's just me.
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rockgymman
Jul 18, 2002, 10:37 PM
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Hello
As the manager of a climbing gym, i see lots of new climbers--with new shoes. You, will not go wrong with a pair of 5-10 Spires. They are entry leval priced are of good quality and use stelth C4 rubber. Climb hard and good luck!!
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climbingpride
Jul 18, 2002, 11:15 PM
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Boreal Ace is the way I went and they have been great. You can now even get them for $75 at
http://www.sportextreme.com/pq301/
I have seen some new climbers going for the cheepest thing and that can a big mistake. Getting these flat bottomed shoes which can not provide good suport. Thats why i say GO FOR THE BOREAL ACE.
[ This Message was edited by: climbingpride on 2002-07-18 16:17 ]
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phillycheese
Jul 18, 2002, 11:20 PM
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what's up with everyone and shoes? there's about 6 shoe threads in this one forum alone. i know they do make a difference but shouldn't rope managing skills and good technique be the first worry?
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snapier
Jul 19, 2002, 12:01 AM
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If you're going for the Boreal Ace (what I climb in and like a lot but may not be right for you) you can also check out:
www.barrabes.com
I bought mine from there and they were $65 plus $10 shipping. Other people have told me shipping is more for them and maybe it is depending on where you live in the US. Anyways, I had my shoes 4 days after placing the order on the net which is not bad considering they were coming from Spain!
[ This Message was edited by: snapier on 2002-07-18 17:01 ]
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nurower
Jul 19, 2002, 1:47 PM
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Hey All - I'm a new climber myself also looking to get my first pair of shoes. I think I'm leaning towards the Spires, but I'm curious about 5:10's Mojave as well - is there any difference between the two? I read a few reviews of the Mojave that said they fall apart easily...
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climbingaddict
Jul 19, 2002, 2:18 PM
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my first one was Boreal Ninja but then i got my fav Anasazi Velcro. They're the best
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carnaged
Jul 25, 2002, 8:18 AM
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Well seeings you're going to spend a lot of time indoors, you gotta take that in mind, you'll be taking your shoes on and off a lot, so I suggest slippers, they're great for indoors, and out.
My first pair were the Moccasyms, and they work great, and pretty cheap too. I've had my share of smears, indoor wear-and-tear, and the outdoor stuff, and these have held through it all. my feet are also relatively narrow, so I sugggest these for a first.
Almost every other climber I know from the indoor gym I go to, has a pair of them...you walk into our gym, that's all you see, Moc's on every pair of feet.
Well, I hope this helps,
Kat
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rico
Jul 25, 2002, 2:51 PM
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phillychese...yeah you're right...but how can you practice your skills or ask other people about that topic when you don't have any climbing gear and are not able to train somewhere??? Shure this question was asked before a lot of time but this is a beginner forum and when I arrived on this page I didn't know what to do...so I just asked questions to learn from you guys!!
Just take it easy and try to help them..
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rico
Jul 25, 2002, 2:53 PM
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I started climbing whith my friends MAMMUT Tusk shoes...after 2 weeks I bought some LA Sportiva..they're both good shoes but if I would start again I guess I would get some 5-10
Rock on!!
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phillycheese
Jul 25, 2002, 3:48 PM
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rico:
i do know that a good shoe can help while learning to climb. however, coming from a skiing background, i was always blown away that people were always more concerned about what gear was best before they could even get down the mountain. it just seems the same to me in this case. it baffles me to see less threads about technique, knot tying, learning belay skills, etc. and more about shoes. i am just starting out climbing also, but i understand that i cannot maximize the benefits of a good shoe until i learn good foot-work and climbing technique. that's why it didn't make much of a difference in the beginning that my shoes were a little too big. i'm not trying to piss anyone off, just stating an opinion.
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bsperes
Jul 25, 2002, 4:34 PM
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philly,
Can you show me how to properly do a drop knee, set up a pulley system, or tie a knot on this forum or the net in general?
No
You can try to explain it in words, you can show a movie or a series of picture. But you can not really learn how to do those things without seeing it and doing it.
You can get other peoples opinions on gear, areas to climb, etc. This forum should not be where people learn how to climb. God knows the liability that you would be subject to would be huge. "Well philly said that this was how you tied the knot and it would be fine." Great, now you are liable when that kid dies.
Get a grip...this is an internet forum.
P.S. Slippers rock
boldering.com rocks your dome
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phillycheese
Jul 25, 2002, 5:02 PM
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bsperes:
good reply. point taken. i appriciate a good smart ass reply every once and again. BTW: i really need a good shoe. i haven't found any good info on the seventeen other threads on the subject so could you give me some beta? please?? do you have the exact same foot as mine? then your opinion on which shoe is better is SUBJECTIVE, just like all the opinions on this forum. here's a question, are there any better knots than the figure eight? what about locking biners? which is better, the screw lock or the automatic lock? are both safe? which is better for belaying and which is better on your daisy chains? what rope is best for sport routes? do i need a 60 meter or a 50? dry or non dry? what about holds? how do you get the forearm strength to hold on to crimpers. are there any good crack jamming techniques? what about stemming? sorry to clog the thread but these are just a few of the endless questions that should be and could be asked. somehow, it always goes back to shoes. hey, i'm not trying to be a jerk, just stating my SUBJECTIVE opinion on the matter. and one last thing bsperes, cheers! here's a virtual beer coming your way to help lighten your loafers.
now i'll try to get the thread back on track.
i just bought some la sportiva cliffs. they fit my foot great and they do the job for now. i like them a lot. plus, they were cheaper than the others i was looking at.
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number7
Jul 25, 2002, 5:13 PM
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Death Metal (bsperes), easy there!
Anyway, about your shoe question. Boardlasted shoes aren't necessary. In fact, you'll have a hard time finding them. However, being a beginner, you are going to eat through your first soles. All of the performance shoes listed have thinner soles (feel the rock better).
5.10 "Spires" and Sportiva "Cliffs" would definately be you best bet. They have thicker soles and they're not bad shoes. In fact, they're excellent all-arounders.
I'm not sure that the Spires Have "C4" rubber, but either shoe is a good one to start with. My first were the Sportiva Cliffs and by the end of the year, I was climbing things in them I never imagined. FIT IS EVERYTHING!
When you're ready for a resole, buy a better performance shoe, and send your tried and true to the Cobbler for some C4.
[ This Message was edited by: number7 on 2002-07-25 10:20 ]
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bsperes
Jul 25, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Death Metal???
boldering.com rocks your dome
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