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joemor
Jul 19, 2002, 2:03 AM
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i had a play with the reverso at a shop the other day and found it locked up when weighted in "bring up the second mode", is there any fast and easy trick to lower or are prussics and pulleys in order? joe [ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2002-07-26 16:11 ]
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johnhenry
Jul 19, 2002, 2:33 AM
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Hey Joe. This link explains both weighted transitions and unweighted transitions for the Reverso. http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesreverso.htm Neither require prussiks, etc. I think the Reverso is an excellent device and a remarkably good deal! John
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wyoclimber
Jul 19, 2002, 3:29 AM
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Right on brutha... I have used the reverso for quite some time, and there have been cases that i have had to lower my second to a stance... so far, i have been able to just give it a good twist and free up the rope, but to take someone to the dirt, i really like the article referenced above. Thanks Bill
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tim
Jul 19, 2002, 3:51 AM
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That's a great article! However, I have carried a TiBloc and prussik loop for a very long time, and my approach to "unweighting" the device has, for some time, been to use the tibloc on the downward-facing strand, clipped to my belay loop with a locker, and bring up enough slack (a foot, tops) to unweight the Reverso. Then I can easily use a sling or even just a twist of the keeper-bar locker in the Reverso, to dial out slack. YMMV --tim
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karlbaba
Jul 19, 2002, 5:13 AM
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It's a good idea to check out that USMGA link for how to lower with a reverso. That being said, the real world and theoretical world are usually a bit different. The second can usually unweight the rope for a moment to save you the trouble of rigging a whole system just to tip and clip the reverso into non-autolocking mode. I love this device and its bag of tricks Peace karl
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ergophobe
Jul 20, 2002, 1:53 AM
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I've been using a New Alp Plaquette for years, which functions a lot like a Reverso - the only way to safely belay two seconds at once. Anyway, the brute force and ignorance aproach often works - clip into the brake biner (the one around which the rope is running) and sit back on it. This loosens things up enough to let you lower in many situations without re-rigging. If that doesn't give you enough oomph, clip a sling into the anchor, run it down through the brake biner, back up through the anchor. Then clip into the free end and sit back. That gives you 2:1 lift, minus friction. This should be enough to let you lower quickly. I'm sure AMGA, Petzl and New Alp (they made the original plaquette about 15 years ago which *finally* inspired the Reverso and brought this to America) would not recommend this, but it's quick and easy, albeit a bit rough. Tom
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