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Your favorite Seneca 5.8 ?
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gat


Jul 28, 2005, 6:40 AM
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Your favorite Seneca 5.8 ?
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What's your favorite Seneca 5.8?

Thanks.


Partner j_ung


Jul 28, 2005, 6:45 AM
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Ooooo... Triple S! With Ecstacy a close second.


mischief8


Jul 28, 2005, 6:49 AM
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Conn's East Direct


Partner climboard


Jul 28, 2005, 6:59 AM
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Triple S would have to be the most classic, with The Burn and Tomato close behind.

J_ung- Ecstasy is a 5.7, but it is high quality!


thorne
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Jul 28, 2005, 7:08 AM
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I seem to recall lousy pro for the crux of Burn, but it's just headgame for a short section.

Triple S is burley all the way. Anyone getting the redpoint earns the right to thump their chest.

Triple S is the best.


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 7:30 AM
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I haven't done it in 20 years, but Pleasant Overhangs is also a great climb. Back in the day, (before sticky rubber and tiny cams) Triple S was a manly route (5.8 my arse) with a couple of dubious placements at the crux. I remember a 40 footer on that one once...classic.


bishop


Jul 28, 2005, 7:43 AM
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The Burn
Triple S
Pleasant Overhang
West Pole (5.7 - but still very fun)


bullet_proof


Jul 28, 2005, 7:46 AM
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Plesent O is a 5.7 also.

burn is my favorite.


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 7:51 AM
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Seneca 5.7. The sandbag capital of the east coast.


bullet_proof


Jul 28, 2005, 7:53 AM
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No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct.

The other soft areas are for egos.


hyhuu


Jul 28, 2005, 7:58 AM
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Best 5.8? Triple S and CLimbing & Punishment (minus the last dirt, short and difficult to protect pitch).

Pleasant Overhang is 5.7 and Ecstacy is a 5.4 with one 5.7 move.

Climb on


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 8:01 AM
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Most of the routes we are talking about were one, two or three letter grade above the original rating. I would agree that they are closer to reality now.


bishop


Jul 28, 2005, 8:04 AM
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In reply to:
No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct.


fully agree!


chew_griffey


Jul 28, 2005, 8:15 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct.


fully agree!

ditto!

Triple S
Lichen or Leave It
Burn
Tomato
Ye Gods and Little Fishes
Alcoa Presents
Climbin' Punishment

All Excellent!!!


gat


Jul 28, 2005, 8:18 AM
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I have noticed a lot of people are big fans of Pleasant Overhangs. Is the second pitch traverse and subsequent belay that people enjoy? Or is it pulling the bulge?

I've been on all of the classic 7's and almost all of the 7's in the guidebook(haven't led every one). In my relatively worthess opinion, PO ranks at or near the bottom of the classic 7's. For perspective, I'd probably put West Pole, Dusty's and Soler at the top. Disclaimer: I tend to forget the details of all but my favorite climbs.


aikibujin


Jul 28, 2005, 8:24 AM
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In reply to:
Ecstacy is a 5.4 with one 5.7 move.

Haha! Classic hyhuu sandbag. :lol:


fishbelly


Jul 28, 2005, 9:19 AM
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Alcoa Presents


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 9:24 AM
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With regard to Pleasant O's fun factor, the traverse to the semi-hanging belay and the bulging move into the dihedral after it...very cool and exposed. Westpole is a one move climb that used to be 5.6, back when 5.9 was the realm of only a few.


gat


Jul 28, 2005, 9:35 AM
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In reply to:
With regard to Pleasant O's fun factor, the traverse to the semi-hanging belay and the bulging move into the dihedral after it...very cool and exposed. Westpole is a one move climb that used to be 5.6, back when 5.9 was the realm of only a few.

Funny thing is, it's not the "one move" of Westpole that I give the high marks to - it's the second pitch that rates in my book. Longer than a lot of pitches at Seneca and pretty consistent. Granted it's consistent 6ish, but it's loads of fun.


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 10:25 AM
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I can't argue that! Man, I need to take my son back to Seneca. Did anyone ever take down or burn that god awful climbing wall in the middle of town?


seric


Jul 28, 2005, 10:56 AM
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In reply to:
ditto!

Triple S
Lichen or Leave It
Burn
Tomato
Ye Gods and Little Fishes
Alcoa Presents
Climbin' Punishment

All Excellent!!!

If triple S is 5.8, Ye God is 5.2 with one hyhuu move.

eric


gat


Jul 28, 2005, 11:01 AM
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Nope, the wall still stands.

edited to remove possibility of ethics discussion


mccabeman


Jul 28, 2005, 11:02 AM
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Thank you. Solid 5.9, I may argure 10a. Of course, I was in eb's the last time I led it.


aikibujin


Jul 28, 2005, 11:02 AM
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Ye God is 5.2 with one hyhuu move.

Sandbaggers, all of you! But I guess that's what you get from climbing at Seneca.


nowinowski


Jul 28, 2005, 11:27 AM
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you don't need sticky rubber and the damn thing (SSS) protects better with hexes that nobody caries anymore, so the old timers can stop whining about how it used to be harder.

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