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first solo aid climb, damn.
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areuinclimber


Jul 13, 2005, 9:12 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
Posts: 436

first solo aid climb, damn.
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hey all,
i just got done with my first solo aid climb (a single pitch at a local crag) and it took FOREVER! my plan was to aid the pitch, rap, clean the pitch, haul the bag (for experience). that all took.. ooooooohhhhhhh..... about 2.5 hours. its pretty exhausting. i realize now the efficiency of adjustable daisies (i had regulars). i also threw a short traverse into the mix complete with a lower out from a hero loop ( i rapped a seperate set of anchors and cleaned it later). i used a clove hitch with back up knots.
is it safe to use a gibbs as a running backup when jugging?
also, how many pieces of pro do you use when setting your base anchor (providing you have to set one)?
have any of you tried using only one set of daisies?
i did this today and it worked ok, i went from standing on one piece to hanging from one daisy on the higher piece and then movied my aiders up to that piece (after all the bounce testing and stuff).

any other tips for more efficiency?


la_revoution


Jul 24, 2005, 9:37 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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Re: first solo aid climb, damn. [In reply to]
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Ditch the whole clove hitch bullshit.
It's either the Gri Gri or frustration.


stevem


Jul 26, 2005, 8:33 AM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2005
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Re: first solo aid climb, damn. [In reply to]
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I'm in the same learning process, and all I can say is it will get better.

I'm using 3-4 pieces for my anchor (whether top or bottom), but I tend to be cautious and climb at UK quarries with plenty of curious/interfering ragamuffins in the vicinity.

I'm only using one set of daisies at the moment, but haven't tried properly overhanging routes yet so I can stay in balance whilst transferring from one piece to the next.

When top roping: I'm backing up with a jumar & overhand knots on the bight on the seperate top rope.
When solo-leading: I'm backing up with clove hitch & an overhand knot on the bight to seperate lockers.

I am starting out too, so don't take my word as gospel... :?


dangle


Jul 28, 2005, 8:25 AM
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Re: first solo aid climb, damn. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
is it safe to use a gibbs as a running backup when jugging?
also, how many pieces of pro do you use when setting your base anchor (providing you have to set one)?
have any of you tried using only one set of daisies?
i did this today and it worked ok, i went from standing on one piece to hanging from one daisy on the higher piece and then movied my aiders up to that piece (after all the bounce testing and stuff).

any other tips for more efficiency?

1)I'd say the Gibbs is good for muddy ropes but not as good at passive backup.
2) I don't like "formulas". In general the number of my anchors is a reflection of my confidence in their strength. When in doubt use common sense (OK so its not REALLY that common.)
3) I only use daisies (and sub aiders, and bounce testing) on harder routes.


Tips? Once in New York City a tourist asked an old man for directions.
"Excuse me sir. Could you tell me how to get to Carnegie Hall?"
The old man slowly nodded his head and with his palms upraised and a pained tone of voice said, "Practice."


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