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Making your own etriers...
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knotrocket


Jul 19, 2002, 12:05 PM
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Making your own etriers...
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When you make etriers, is there some trick way to measure out all your steps and where to sew 'em, to get some kind of idea how much webbing you'll need for the whole hoodis, or do you just buy a piece of webbing and eyeball it? How many steps? I was thinking like five or six...And is there anything in particular that works great for sliding into the webbing of each step to keep it open? I was thinking like a small dowel rod...
Thanks for any advice...
Zach


timmyclimber


Jul 19, 2002, 12:26 PM
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hey! I was just out at teton national park and a guy showed me how he tied his own etriers. Ill explain as best i can. ourchase sixteen feet of 1 inch flat webbing. Tie the ends with a Frost Knot. Leave the tails long and tape them down. Use the Ring Bend to tie a short clup-in loop at the top of the etrier. Use the Overhand on a Bight to tie five large steps. Leave one side of each loop longer so that the steps hang open when its weighted. I know this sounds confusing but if you have a question just ask. Hope this helps!


rollingstone


Jul 19, 2002, 1:07 PM
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Zach: I made set for me and my wife over 20 years ago, and the trick for me was to try several diferent types available commercially that friends had, and then decide exactly what worked best for me. I think the 1972 Chouinard catalog has exact specs on length of webbing (preferably flat 1") needed, but if you are going to sew these, you can just do the math to calculate the amount of material you will need. I sewed ours and used black 1' flat webbing to create the step-stiffener that will keep the step open. The rise is determined by your specific step size. If you are tall, or short, the step should be sized comfortably enough so that it is not a thrash and dangle affair moving from one to the other, yet it should also maximize step distance because all those little steps add up on a wall. A really nice feature too is the ability to have a little top step for those less-than vertical places where you can lean on the wall and not fall over backward and get a r-e-al-l-y l-o-n-g r-e-a-c-h for that placement just beyond your fingertips. If you have any friends with book/catalog collections, ask around to see the 71 or 72 Chouinard/Great Pacific Iron Works Catalogs.
Then go to your local climbing shop, check out all the brands available, decide on a style you like, and if sewing your own is cheaper overall (or if you just like making your own gear), then have at it.

btw, the stitch pattern is important. If you do not have bar-tack capability with your machine, thenyou need to have about 3inches on the vertical part of the etrier for tsufficient strength, and the pattern should allow for approximately 12 passes in concentric squares, starting at the outside edges and gradually working into the middle of the webbing. I would draw it here if I could, but I don't know how. Hope this helps. This pattern was tested years ago, and I sewed many runners with this before sewn webbing was commercially available. It was tested at REI, and found to have more than adequate strength.


krustyklimber


Jul 19, 2002, 1:24 PM
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Homemade aiders aren't worth the trouble for the savings... They never stay open very well, I wouldn't trust anything but a real bartack at every point that bears weight, hand tied aiders will kill your feet by crushing them sideways all day.

Those of you who know me can see this coming...
Yates makes some awesome aiders, the Big Wall Ladders are the best traditional aiders made IMHO, they also make a great pair of staggered aiders.

But if you are going to be doing a lot of aiding you might think about getting into the Russian system, it is said to be the "better way"!

Jeff

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-07-19 14:17 ]


biggernhell


Jul 19, 2002, 3:07 PM
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Krustys right, homemade aider are a pain in the ass. If you can't afford to buy aiders, I'm afraid that you may not be able to afford enough pro to aid much anyway. For aiders at a great price try www.fishproducts.com


rickoldskool


Jul 19, 2002, 3:40 PM
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Here's what I tried on my first wall climb. Find an old extension ladder, preferably off the last construction job you had. Make sure it's long enough to cut two 5 foot pieces. Once cut tie 1" web to the tops, I tie to the end with a step still on it, that's your topstep. Tie the web in an inverted "V", long enough to tie a small loop on a bite (clip in point). CHEAP, BOMBER, and they work for crevasse crossings.
That's #100. I HAD TO BE A SMARTASS Making you own doesn't make sense, unless of course, you have more time than I do and are cheaper.


knotrocket


Jul 19, 2002, 5:48 PM
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Well as far as being cheap, I'm all about Ramen/beans and rice/mac and cheese, and I only work every 48 hrs. so I got PLENTY of time! I get the hint though. I don't aid yet, but I want to get into it at some point, like when I get a job that doesn't pay by the hour so I can afford the above-mentioned equipment! I think I dig the technical nature of aid. Anyway I was thinking of making my own steps mainly for ascending if need be while rappelling (relax, not for recreation, for rope rescue work). Just messing around after I posted, I tied some sliding some plastic weatherstrip in for the steps and it seemed like it would hold 'em open fine. I can see the underlying tone though!
Thanks


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