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alternative to clove hitches for opposing pieces
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beesty511


Jul 29, 2005, 4:31 PM
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alternative to clove hitches for opposing pieces
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Hi,

I saw a hitch published somewhere (maybe in Climbing magazine?), which was an alternative to using clove hitches to oppose two pieces in a vertical crack. As I remember, it involved clipping into the lower piece with a sling, and then somehow wrapping the sling around a biner clipped into the upper piece. Can anyone direct me to the issue or an online resource that pictures the method?

Thanks.


frawg


Jul 29, 2005, 6:14 PM
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just use a clove hitch??? What's wrong with the clove hitch????????


Partner epoch
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Jul 31, 2005, 8:01 AM
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just use a clove hitch??? What's wrong with the clove hitch????????

Yeah! :D


dirtyleaf


Jul 31, 2005, 12:17 PM
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use a clove hitch or a bungee cord


kobaz


Jul 31, 2005, 9:39 PM
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bungie cord?


mcfoley


Jul 31, 2005, 9:54 PM
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yes use a clove hitch... faster than any other option ... and just as bomber.


crackboy


Aug 1, 2005, 4:32 PM
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the hitch you are refering to is you clip the sling through one biner run it upinto the other piece and go through the other biner without clipping through the sling towards the rock and then come back out in bewteen the sling towards you. this will lock the two piece in.

originally saw it in one of the rock craft books, i haven't used it myself since i always forget how to do it.

essentially a quick and dirty method for 'equializing' a piece.

though i mentione this to someone else and i think they though it wasn't really equalized, so its more of an opposing piece kin of thing to keep one in the right position.


caughtinside


Aug 1, 2005, 5:03 PM
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In reply to:
the hitch you are refering to is you clip the sling through one biner run it upinto the other piece and go through the other biner without clipping through the sling towards the rock and then come back out in bewteen the sling towards you. this will lock the two piece in.

Do you mean you thread the sling, between the two strands of the sling going up to the biner? Just trying to be clear. :?


texplorer


Aug 3, 2005, 10:13 AM
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I have climbed for 5 years, done bigwalls, climbed ice, alpine, sport, and trad and have never had to use anything more than the figure eight, double fishermans, and clove hitch. LET IT GO MAN. . . you don't need to know this!


wyjames


Aug 4, 2005, 7:32 PM
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In reply to:
the hitch you are refering to is you clip the sling through one biner run it upinto the other piece and go through the other biner without clipping through the sling towards the rock and then come back out in bewteen the sling towards you. this will lock the two piece in.

originally saw it in one of the rock craft books, i haven't used it myself since i always forget how to do it.

essentially a quick and dirty method for 'equializing' a piece.

though i mentione this to someone else and i think they though it wasn't really equalized, so its more of an opposing piece kin of thing to keep one in the right position.

Ya what he said- I think.

I clip a double shoulder length sling to the lower biner, then run the entire sling through the upper biner ( not clipping it ) , continue to pass the entire sling back through itself (back towards the rock), then run the entire sling back through the upper biner again. Damn this is confusing to try to explain. When you pull down on the sling it tightens the wrap at the upper biner and holds the pieces in place. Then clip your rope ( or whatever) to the remaining end of the sling.

I use this for opposing pieces for several reasons. Most notable you can actually do it with one hand while you are climbing (everyone will tell you then can do girth hitches on lead with one hand, but try it... not easy). Second you can actually get some good tension on the 2 pieces ( again everyone will tell you they get plenty of tension from girth hitches, but try both and compare-you may be surprised). Also you get an easy and obvious point to clip in at which is essentially multi-directional.

Viola- I like it and while Texplorer is right you don't " need to know it" I find learning new tricks and techniques really improves my speed and efficiency. If you are just learning and the basics are not ingrained then I can see the argument to not crowd you mind with a million tricks.

Texplorer , I am surprised you have never used a Munter in all that.


Partner abe_ascends


Aug 4, 2005, 9:32 PM
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anyone have a diagram or weblink they can provide for this hitch? Perhaps even just the name of it? i'm curious to see what it looks like, as the descriptions presented thus far are fairly confusing.
As already mentioned, it's probably not necessary to know, but I like learning new knots. I think it's always worth keeping up on new techniques. Knowledge is power! Huzzah!


davelwang


Aug 5, 2005, 10:49 AM
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I think what he is referring to a locking girth hitch? I have seen it demonstrated once but I personally have never used it, and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to make the girth hitch "lock"

Dave


brokenarmboy19


Aug 5, 2005, 11:36 AM
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In reply to:
I think what he is referring to a locking girth hitch? I have seen it demonstrated once but I personally have never used it, and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to make the girth hitch "lock"

Dave


Isn't a locking girth hitch a prusek


imnotclever


Aug 5, 2005, 11:43 AM
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Is it a Mariner's Hitch: http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Mariners.htm

Also click on the link at the bottom of the page.

I'd still use a clove.


Partner j_ung


Aug 5, 2005, 11:53 AM
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I clip a double shoulder length sling to the lower biner, then run the entire sling through the upper biner ( not clipping it ) , continue to pass the entire sling back through itself (back towards the rock), then run the entire sling back through the upper biner again. Damn this is confusing to try to explain. When you pull down on the sling it tightens the wrap at the upper biner and holds the pieces in place. Then clip your rope ( or whatever) to the remaining end of the sling.

Got it, thanks. Does this method also work in non-vertical placements? How well does it hold tension when jostled about by rope drag?


Partner j_ung


Aug 5, 2005, 11:57 AM
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Is it a Mariner's Hitch: http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Mariners.htm

Also click on the link at the bottom of the page.

I'd still use a clove.

I'm pretty sure (not 100%) that it isn't a mariner's.


phile


Aug 5, 2005, 12:18 PM
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so you're wrapping the sling around the upper biner after passing it through itself? The way I'm picturing it, it doesn't seem like there'd be enough friction to reliably keep tension on the 2 pieces?


jude


Aug 11, 2005, 8:48 PM
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Locking Girth Hitch

I had a question about it earlier, and got the typical response.

With a sling with one end clipped in, thread a bight of the same sling through another 'biner. Thread the bight between the strands and through the 'biner again and back down. Tighten it. If you rig it correctly, the lower wraps will lock off the upper wrap.

I'll try to get you a picture. It's in one of "The Mountaineers" Books.


nobody


Aug 11, 2005, 10:23 PM
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I have climbed for 5 years, done bigwalls, climbed ice, alpine, sport, and trad and have never had to use anything more than the figure eight, double fishermans, and clove hitch. LET IT GO MAN. . . you don't need to know this!

:shock: WOW! Have you really been climbing for FIVE whole years?!














:roll:


toejam


Aug 12, 2005, 2:58 AM
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I read about this use of the girth in a book put out by Climbing Magazing: Rock - Tools and Technique. The example was a tensioning of two horizontal placements. Personally, I tend to use clove hitches for horizontal placements and the girth on vertical placements, or any placement when I'm in a hurry. It does loosen up easier than the cloves.

edit: whoops meant tension not equalize


golsen


Aug 12, 2005, 3:27 AM
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I have climbed for 5 years, done bigwalls, climbed ice, alpine, sport, and trad and have never had to use anything more than the figure eight, double fishermans, and clove hitch. LET IT GO MAN. . . you don't need to know this!

I agree with you tex, and I have been doing it about 30 years. Frankly, there are some things these days that seem way to freakin complicated. Learn a few things and learn them well. This kind of thing looks good on paper and then what use it once every couple years? My memory sucks and by the time I need to use it again I will have forgotten...


gat


Aug 12, 2005, 5:36 AM
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I love the clove hitch. However, this is something I can see being very useful.

I picture this scenario: need/want a multi-directional and have two passive pro placements in a vertical/horizontal crack. One or both placements would benefit from being held in place by tension. I only have one hand to use. Tying a clove in a runner with one hand while trying not to take a ride in this situation is VERY difficult at best (at least for me).


Partner abe_ascends


Aug 15, 2005, 9:26 PM
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I think I found a link to this elusive hitch... someone (perhaps the OP) can tell me whether this is it. http://www.layhands.com/...#AdjustableGripHitch
Oh, I noticed in the linked page that it says the hitch slides under the force of a fall. Assuming this is the hitch the OP was referring to, I'm wondering if this would affect the effectiveness of the pro. I can't picture how the sliding forces would affect the pro, but I keep wondering if it would loosen or melt under the force of a fall. Any comments?

Edited cuz I forgot to attach the URL the first time :oops:


toejam


Aug 16, 2005, 12:07 AM
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No it is a girth hitch. My gear is downstairs in the garage, but I'll try to remember to take pic of one and post it.


squish


Aug 16, 2005, 12:27 AM
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In reply to:
I think I found a link to this elusive hitch... someone (perhaps the OP) can tell me whether this is it. http://www.layhands.com/...#AdjustableGripHitch

No, you won't find the hitch you're looking for on that page. Because the hitch in question needs to pass through the sling itself, you can't do that with a single strand of rope as shown in each illustration (except for the pile hitch, which is the only one tied on a bight, but that's not the one either).

Essentially, it's a girth hitch around the top biner, followed by an extra wrap of the top biner, but looping in the opposite direction (half way around the spine, and through).

I haven't used it, but I seem to remember the article. It does sound like it's more adjustable, but probably not as sturdy as a clove, which would still be fine for many on-lead EQ situations.

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