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aggiejon
Aug 7, 2005, 6:46 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2005
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Basically, I plan on doing some climbing in late may next year (because of school schedule) with two friends in the northwest. How are the avalanche and crevasse conditions this early in the year? We have all three climbed DC, and emmons on rainier as well as adams and baker and three sisters, and we are looking to get off the beaten path. How is the kautz route in early season? We are trying to gradually prepare ourselves for Denali in a few years. I have heard that Ingraham direct is good early, along with nisqually icefall. Whats your fave route that really has alot of variety? I also would like a great ski descent too, maybe down emmons, and i will definitely be hitting Adams on my skis again. I'm open to trying other mountains within the state
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valeberga
Aug 7, 2005, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
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Fuhrer Finger? Haven't done it though.
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aggiejon
Aug 7, 2005, 9:20 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2005
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I think the finger is just an alternate to the kautz, running parralel on the upper slopes. Im pretty sure the fuhrer finfer and kautz split aroud 10 or 11 thousand feet and meet up together higher up. I'll consider that one, its definitely off the beatan path. I made the mistake this year of doing the DC in late july on a weekend. try passing 36 inexperinced RMI clients in a row, plodding along at a grandmas pace.
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clintoris
Aug 7, 2005, 10:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2004
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The Gibraltar Ledges are are great. I did them in March and had a blast. I've also been to 10500 on the Kautz Glacier route. We got blown off in early July by gale force winds, but it was still good. Your biggest danger will be avalanches. May is the time when things are warming up, but freezing at night. Be careful and choose your time carefully, not going too soon after a snow. Get an early start. You'll be fine. Go over to CascadeClimbers.com if you are looking for more information.
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wargowsky
Aug 8, 2005, 12:18 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2004
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i agree, gib ledges is a great route. i did it late in may this year. its not a heavily traveled route, especially that time of year. if you decide to do it be sure to bring wands (unless you plan to descend via another route). have a great climb!
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scottquig
Aug 8, 2005, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2005
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I don't know about particular routes on Rainier, but generally the ice is supposed to be much more broken up and crevassed late in summer. May may be a good time to climb, especially in a low snowfall winter (I hope not)! Weather is sketchy, though.
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