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cheminvignes
Aug 8, 2005, 2:39 AM
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Does anyone have any advice for forming chocks out of webbing, cordelette, rope to protect cracks in case of an emergency or for areas with ultra-pure ethics rules (e.g., Czech Republic feature in September Rock and Ice)? To clarify, I'm not referring to slinging a horn or a tunnel in the rock, but rather working a knot of rope into a crack and clipping it like normal pro (page 63 of September Rock and Ice shows a "number 3 camalot" knot wad). I believe this technique is most often associated with German sandstone. I'm interested in learning the technique for emergency rappel situations (cut off a piece of your lead rope and make a chock to fit), as I don't think I have the guts to lead something fully on knot protection. Thanks in advance for your help and comments.
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cheminvignes
Aug 8, 2005, 3:08 AM
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Thanks much! :)
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landongw
Aug 8, 2005, 3:47 AM
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you can also go to the google website, and click language tools, paste in the url of the page and it will translate it for you.
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musicman
Aug 8, 2005, 3:52 AM
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Great article, read it a couple times on the plane ride back from Ethiopia. But...for the record it was in The Czech Republic, not Germany. Those sandstone towers are beautiful, i would love to climb them, although i would also like to take cams and nuts, i'd even compromise with just nuts haha. Although i do respect the guys for staying true with there ethics, that is some strong will power and self control. I man not want to emulate the way they climb (often seemed quite reckless) but like i said, i do respect them quite a bit.
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sbaclimber
Aug 8, 2005, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: i'd even compromise with just nuts haha. Although i do respect the guys for staying true with there ethics, that is some strong will power and self control. |
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sbaclimber
Aug 8, 2005, 4:07 AM
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In reply to: you can also go to the google website, and click language tools, paste in the url of the page and it will translate it for you.
Knots leave themselves occasional to put and possibly against each other to strutting also in dare-right cut. (on risk of the fusion burn respect, carbines use!)"
um......right..... :lol: :oops:
(better than nothing though)
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alvinswill
Aug 8, 2005, 4:35 AM
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Buy plenty of perlon from 8mm to the thickist you can find. Knot it up with a loop. The Czech's are really good at camming the knots. Sort of primary hex's. You also need stiff loops for threading tunnels. The belays are bomber. Even if you blow out protection on the second pitch you should be fine on most climbs. The first pitch is a different story. Broken legs are a badge of honor at Cesky Raj, be careful.
Chaulk is still considered taboo, though the kids are beginning to use it. Most of all enjoy the scene. Good looking girls, great beer, and wonderful people.
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cheminvignes
Aug 8, 2005, 5:04 AM
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The German site had one example of camming the knot. Anyone with some advice from hands-on experience?
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vegastradguy
Aug 8, 2005, 5:36 AM
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take a sling. tie an overhand. put it in a crack. different sized slings fit different cracks.
my partner uses knotted slings regularly in red rock for both pro and parts of anchors...
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horseonwheels
Aug 8, 2005, 7:33 AM
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The knot in the R&I article touting it as a #3 camalot looks a lot like a monkey fist. It was developed as a decorative end knot for sailing line and also for heaving. Tis a very cool knot if properly dressed, although to make it look half-way decent you have to use rather thick cordage.
Here's a link for tying one -
http://www.igkt.net/...rs/monkeys-fist.html
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stabla
Aug 31, 2005, 5:20 PM
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knots for chocks thats NUTTY!
cheers
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devonick
Aug 31, 2005, 10:19 PM
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i have abseiled of a knotted sling in an emergency situation and it seemed fine to do, i dont know what hapened to the sling as i havnt gone back there yet and i doubt i will go back there again but i think that it would be reasonalby alright
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tisar
Sep 2, 2005, 2:05 PM
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I wrote a small article after taking a leading class in the German/Saxon Sandstone (which is in fact the same as the Czech, just on the other side of the border):
knotted cord as pro
- Daniel
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skinnyclimber
Sep 2, 2005, 2:29 PM
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This seems like tons of fun to me. I read the R&I article several times myself. I think I'll go buy some cord, make some knots and go play around with them at ground level at my local crag... Hey it can't hurt right??
skinny
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atpeaceinbozeman
Sep 2, 2005, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: The knot in the R&I article touting it as a #3 camalot looks a lot like a monkey fist. It was developed as a decorative end knot for sailing line and also for heaving. Tis a very cool knot if properly dressed, although to make it look half-way decent you have to use rather thick cordage. Here's a link for tying one - http://www.igkt.net/...rs/monkeys-fist.html
Nice! I too was wanting to tie this sweet looking knot...
I hear that if you climb with the monkey's fist, it improves your ninja style...
http://images.amazon.com/...7IWM.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg
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