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Used To Need Beta for The Citadel in the Sierras
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asandh


Aug 8, 2005, 9:56 AM
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Used To Need Beta for The Citadel in the Sierras
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:)


asandh


Aug 8, 2005, 11:00 AM
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:)


asandh


Aug 8, 2005, 3:40 PM
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:)


sspssp


Aug 8, 2005, 4:48 PM
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If you haven't already, you might try posting your question to www.supertopo.com.


jerrygarcia


Aug 8, 2005, 4:56 PM
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Also try http://www.summitpost.org/message_board/ supertopo is full of people debating politics.


asandh


Aug 8, 2005, 6:57 PM
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:)


asandh


Aug 10, 2005, 7:37 AM
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:)


murf


Aug 10, 2005, 8:18 AM
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In reply to:
bump

any trad climbers out there ?

I'll even settle for second hand accounts of first hand accounts :)

How about second hand accounts of talking to folks talking about doing it. Meet a couple of guys doing an 4:00 am start in the South Lake parking lot to the Citadel. Car was still there after our N. Butt of Mt Goode IAD ( 2:00 ish ).

That's all I got.


asandh


Aug 10, 2005, 9:12 AM
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:)


sspssp


Aug 10, 2005, 9:13 AM
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In reply to:
Also try http://www.summitpost.org/message_board/ supertopo is full of people debating politics.

That's too true. But I think they only talk politics because they are too lazy to start their own climbing threads. Whenever I have posted a question on a Yosemite/Toulumne/Sierra route, I have usually gotten a lot of replies. There are some posters there that have decades of experience climbing those routes.


murf


Aug 10, 2005, 7:07 PM
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In reply to:
murf wrote:
In reply to:
.... after our N. Butt of Mt Goode IAD

Since you mentioned it, we plan to do N. Butt of Goode as a warmup on our way in to The Citadel. How recently did you do your climb ? How was the snow at the base ? We really don't want to bring axes & other paraphernalia if possible. How was the route ?

I enjoyed it quite a bit. The snow gets soft in the sun, we had a single axe, and could have possibly gotten away without it. Depends how confident you are on snow.

Combined p1&p2, and the traverse pitch wasn't that bad IMHO. There's quite a bit of gear on the way across. The only questionable pitches are the one after the traverse and the one after the crux. Typical 4-5th class, but with quite a bit of loose rock. Crux pitch was straight forward. We finshed by traversing right at the tower. Then from ledge we headed into the improbable chimney left and up.

Easiest descent in the book, too. I thought the hardest part of the whole route was coming up from Margeret Lk.

Murf


asandh


Aug 12, 2005, 8:13 AM
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:)


murf


Sep 2, 2005, 9:16 AM
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Pulled from ST mostly for selfish archive purposes ( easier to search for here ):

In reply to:
On Saturday, Peter Coward and I climbed the “Edge of Time Arete”, IV, 5.10 on The Citadal in the High Sierra. The most noteworthy aspect of this climb is its 16 mile approach, which unfortunately translates to a 16 mile hike back to the car once you’ve completed the climb.
Peter and I drove out Friday night stopping in Livermore to buy a new harness after I realized I forgot mine at home. We got to the trailhead outside of Bishop at around midnight and enjoyed a three hour snooze waking at 3:15 am to get the coffee going. The 16 mile approach is incredible with lots of great scenery and spectacular views into LeConte Canyon, Langille Peak, and our objective The Citadel. Somewhere along the way I realized I forgot a significant portion of our food supplies. We did the approach in about 6 hours, the crux being the final bushwack up 2,000 feet to the base of the route. Despite some difficulties negotiating the snow and ice guarding the start of the route, we began climbing at 11:30 am. To avoid the bergschrund, we added the 2 pitch indirect start (5.4 X) that traverses into the climb above the snow.
The climb went smoothly with lots of variety making our way up the amazing NE Arete. We topped out around 5:40 after 6 hours of climbing. The descent is not for the faint of heart and involved complex, somewhat psycho, downclimbing, on steep loose shattered rock, with insane exposure. Now that we’re done it, I highly recommend the route for the descent alone.
With the climb and descent under our belts it was only a matter of finding our cached pack, fording the Middle Fork of the Kings River, hiking the 7 or 8 miles up 3,500 feet to Bishop Pass and descending 5 miles to the car. We started our return hike fairly strongly, grinding up about 2,000 feet in about an hour and a half. But at around 11 pm, we hit the wall. Maybe it was all that lunch food I forgot to pack. We carried on at a pathetic pace to Bishop Pass. Between hallucinations, I would turn off my headlamp and enjoy the stars and the ¾ moon lighting up the miles of exposed rock. We got to the pass and continued each in his own zombie-like fashion to the car; the final 2 miles being particularly brutal, yet somehow satisfying. The car to car time was 23.5 hours. After a 2 hours of sleep, we began our drive home.

link to original http://www.supertopo.com/...ic_id=123896&f=0&b=0


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