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derekt
Aug 12, 2005, 1:30 PM
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I ran across a FS ad about Mountain Hardware (Hardwear?) "Big Bros" and I'm trying to find some info on them. Reviews, personal experiences, likes, dislikes, etc.
I haven't found anything in the Forums on them, plus I can't get onto the Mountain Hardwear website right now. And I'm not certain that Mountain Hardwear makes pro. Could be a spelling mistake on the poster's part, but maybe they did make pro at some point in time.
Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks!
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tattooed_climber
Aug 12, 2005, 1:37 PM
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MH USE to make 'em...then trango took over....
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vegastradguy
Aug 12, 2005, 1:59 PM
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check Trango's website as well as the gear forum here...i'm pretty sure they're on the site.
i have the trango version, which, to my knowledge, is more or less the same thing. they have their uses, but can be difficult to place and require a bit more finessing than cams.
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 12, 2005, 2:27 PM
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yeah - like vegastradguy said - they can be a bear to place right, and are worthless if they aren't in good. And they are heavy.
But - they do cover a wide range of sizes, and when placed right they are bomber (vedauwoo comes to mind, for the off-widths)
Find someone that has one or two, and try placing it a few times. then decide...my .02$
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jer
Aug 12, 2005, 2:50 PM
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paganmonkey- BigBro's are heavy in relation to what? They are lighter than cams covering the same range.
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derekt
Aug 12, 2005, 3:09 PM
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[quote="tattooed_climber"]MH USE to make 'em...then trango took over....
So when did Trango take over from Mountain Hardwear? And arethere any design differences between the two manufacturers?
I've seen the Big Bros page in the Gear Forum, and I know that they take some familiarity to place. From what I can tell, some love 'em, so hate 'em.
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tim
Aug 12, 2005, 4:15 PM
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Some love them, some hate them, but when you're placing a green or blue Big Bro, you don't really have to make that decision -- NOTHING ELSE WILL FIT!
If you need Bros, you'll know. They're vastly lighter than a cam of similar size (eg. the BD #6 C4 and the WC #6 Friend cover *part* of the expansion range of a green Big Bro... and they feel like they weigh at least twice if not 3 times as much. I was just racking up all of the above last night) but unlike a cam, you cannot walk a BigBro, which makes some people very unhappy. However, you can use a BigBro as a rope roller, which you can't do with a rope.
Anyways, it's not a decision of "like them", rather it's a decision of "need them". If you're likely to fall on something 8" or wider without other protection opportunities, you need a Big Bro to protect the pitch in question. Otherwise, don't fall. (the original Yosemite wide-crack approach -- "technique is our protection" -- rebutted by the Fish as "bad technique is our pitch zipper") Either solution is valid :-)
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dingus
Aug 12, 2005, 5:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I know a guy who has like 8 of them and has actually USED THEM! I always knew you ran with a slow crowd... 1) is that you or Bruce? hard to tell from a butt shot and a wino scene 2) what route is that on? it looks ''fun'' ;-)
That's Brutus. When the going gets wide, I go get Wyde!
The route is Wagon Train (cause of all the wagon wheels needed to protect it).
Up Sonora Pass way, Chipmunk Flat. Its only 5.9, pro 6-12 inches with some hand sized stuff for the belay. It's actually quite a good squeeze chimney, very enjoyable, very overhanging so if you fall out of the thing its nothing but clean air to a granite slab grave. The tag line is bent over an edge but represents true verticality.
I never would have imagined saying this... but it IS an enjoyable squeeze (for those who have the necessary $500 - $1000 worth of Wyde Pro to send it safely. TR not an option)
Here ya go:
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/...0Wall/Tag%20Team.jpg
And here's the beef: (thanks Mungeclimber)
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/...rs%20Wall%20Topo.htm
And
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/index.html
DMT
DMT
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 12, 2005, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: paganmonkey- BigBro's are heavy in relation to what? They are lighter than cams covering the same range.
They probably are lighter than a cam for the same range - I don't have anything larger than a #4 DMM cam so I can't say for sure, but that seems to be the general consensus on the thread here. I just know how heavy the set of four is when I clip it on to the rack, but like others have pointed out - when you *need* them, they are good to have. I've left them on the ground before because I didn't want the weight on me, and been bummed downclimbing out of the offwidth because there was nothing else to get for pro...
Are you going to use something that big a lot ? That's the question. I got my set when I was heading to vedauwoo when ever I could, and they have come in handy.
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landgolier
Aug 12, 2005, 6:32 PM
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This is going to sound arrogant, but if you actually need them, you know what they are.
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