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Sundevil Chimney
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bigj


Aug 15, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Sundevil Chimney
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Hello All,

I am busy planning my annual Labor Day kickoff to the Fisher Towers season and was wondering if anyone has been up the Sundevil recently (past year).

Mmmmm...heat, red undies and warm beer!!!!!!!!

Just looking for info on gear recommendations and bolt/anchor condition.

Thanks.

J


atg200


Aug 16, 2005, 6:45 AM
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i've only done the first pitch, but i managed it hammerless. to do that, lowe balls(the big ones too) and red aliens were key. i had two sets of lowe balls and 4 red aliens, and i still backcleaned a bit. hybrid aliens were nice, and the usual kitchen sink clean aid rack.


jderekforrester


Aug 16, 2005, 8:51 PM
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Just a heads up. I was climbing Cottontail on a North Facing route last weekend and it is still really hot in the fishers. I remember climbing sundevil in mid september and it was an excrutiatingly hot experience.


atg200


Aug 17, 2005, 6:40 AM
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Did you do West Side Story? What did you think of it?


bigj


Aug 17, 2005, 8:34 AM
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Thanks for the info guys.

I figured it would be hot as Hell on the Sundevil but was going to wait to see what the weather was like and play it by ear. Bring lots of beer and hope for the best!

My other option was Phantom Sprint cuz it's in the shade and someone needs to replace those shitty bolts on the ladder at the top. Yipes! Spooky...

I have also looked at Westside (shade) but can't find any info on the route other than Desert Rock. Looks very cool.

Anyone have any info on Westide Story?

Take it easy.

J


atg200


Aug 17, 2005, 9:16 AM
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yeah, phantom sprint is an icebox. i did it over easter one year, and i was absolutely freezing! those bolts up top are sooooo scary, especially for fat men like me.


bigj


Aug 17, 2005, 10:56 AM
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Hell yeah it's cold.
I was up there early Spring of this year and was super cold in the shade.

When I got to those bolts, all I could do was shake my head and laugh.

Those bolts are jacked up!

Someone needs to replace those. I would say funk them and pop some BIG angles in the holes! Maybe I will be the one to do it...


Adios.

J


jderekforrester


Aug 17, 2005, 12:35 PM
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As far as beta goes on westside, I have only done the first five pitches thus far. Just a heads up too, my ropes are fixed from pitch 5 down. The aiding is actually pretty casual for c2/c3 in the fishers. I thought thus far on the route that the free climbing has actually been pretty solid too. The anchors are descent as well. Usually at least 1 a1 piece. I will be going out there hopefully in the next coupla weeks to finish the route up and take down my ropes. However, right now work and other obligations are keeping me busy.


jderekforrester


Aug 17, 2005, 12:38 PM
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Oh, as far as funking out entire bolt ladders and replacing them with "big angles", please don't do that. Anchors that have already been established with bolts ok, but if what was placed was a dowel or quarter incher, that is what it needs to be replaced with, not a giant pin. Lets keep the fishers what they are supposed to be, mud climbing, not just huge bolt ladders. Hell, half the fun of these routes is realizing that the bolt that just held your weight also held Harvey Carters back in 1967.


bigj


Aug 17, 2005, 1:23 PM
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jderekforrester,

Thanks for the info on West Side.

As far as the POS bolt ladder on the North Chimney finish to Phantom Sprint, I think there are 6-8 "bolts". 2 or 3 of these have been replaced with crappy 3/8 bolts by some other deviant.

I see no problem with removing a couple of these "bolts" on this very short ladder and replacing them with something a bit more solid, like an angle. I would say 2 would do the trick.

Take it easy.

J


jderekforrester


Aug 17, 2005, 1:40 PM
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No, I agree with you on the crappy 3/8" bolts, if they are already there it would be much better to replace them with a good drilled angle. I think I misunderstood you, I was assuming you meant replacing 1/4"rs and the rivets with bolts, which I would have to disagree with. Sorry if I came off as an ass.


bigj


Aug 17, 2005, 1:56 PM
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jderekforrester,

No problem my man. I see you don't feel like working either...

I would just replace 1 or 2 with good drilled angles in the same hole. I assume I could pull them out with my hand as they are they are those nail in a sleeve thing that has a piton like hanger/sleeve. You have to leave at least a couple because they are so funny/scary!

I will be out there Labor Day weekend to do either Sundevil or West Side, depending on the weather. If it rains I will just drink beer.

If I get to WS before you , I'll just jug your lines and get 5 pitches for free!!!

If you get there first, let me know how it goes. I would be interested in what gear you needed.

J


jderekforrester


Aug 17, 2005, 3:15 PM
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Hey,

If you do plan to head out and do west side over labor day that would be cool, I could probably meet you out there, as I would be psyched to have a partner for the last 5 pitches. If you head out there sooner, just let me know how the fixed lines are doing. you can e-mail me at j_forrester@coloradocollege.edu if you are pumped to do west side. If not, no biggie, and I can send you my gear list.


guanoboy


Aug 26, 2005, 11:04 AM
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I led the first pitch in may and ran into some interesting gear. Someone brought a bag of what looked to be oak wedges that were about 1/4" to 1/2" thick at the fat end and about 1-2" long. I'm not sure what the person did, but i'm guessing they hammered in the wedges then hooked the wood. The wedges seem a good low impact technique but had the undesirable side effect of plugging up the cracks. The climbing was interesting, the setting spectacular. I think all the anchors were beefed up last year. have fun.
andrew


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