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drector
Aug 17, 2005, 11:47 PM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037
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I was out climbing recently and a group of three other climbers showed up. They climbed right next to us, which was fine. There was no conflict of any sort.
There was a bit of a problem for the other climber though. His belayer looked to have never belayed with an tube device and really sucked. He was using slide/pinch belay method and was holding the rope in the brake hand straight up next to the climbing rope most of the time. He had to grip tight to hold any falls. He also let go completely with the break hand while pinching the brake end of the rope with two fingers of his other hand to change his hand position. All while his buddy was trying to do a dyno and not quite making the reach.
I mentioned the belaying mistake to the belayer but I was belaying at the time and could not walk over and help out.
The point is this: If you are going to climb and teach a belayer at the same time, pay a little attention and give some better instruction. This guy belaying just plain sucked at it and the climber could clearly see this being only a short distance up the route.
Dave
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veganboyjosh
Aug 18, 2005, 12:07 AM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 1421
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we were out cragging at the end of the day once, and the party next to us consisted of one experience climber, and several other people who had climbed a little, but weren't all that experienced with rigging and ropes and such. i watched mr. experienced lead a new route(in order to set up a top rope for everyone) and then as he was being lowered, i noticed that the rope was more than halfway out as he reached the top of the route. (ie. he was on a 50m rope, while the route required a 60m for a top rope.) i mentioned this to his belayer, who was tied into the end of the (too short) rope, and he mentioned it to the climber.
they eventually had someone in their party pull a rope froma nother route they had installed a toprope on, and were able to lower the climber. but i thought it pretty irresponsible for him to lead this route (which was at a pretty well used crag) with a rope that's not long enuogh to be lowered on, especially with a fairly noobish belayer.
we left soon after that, since we were done climbing, but i'm glad i wasn't there to see anymore of their shenanigans.
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